Problems starting my GS425

[posplayr]

So, I have checked the valve clearances ( 3 of 4 are .06 or more, the 4th prolly right at .03), the points timing is as close as I have been able to get it to keep it running, good clean carbs (properly dipped and o-ring'd, couple of times for good measure), electrical all gone through when I was in process of rebuild (including NOS harness), new to me starter motor as other one went kaput, plenty of spark at the plugs. I end up having to push start my bike every morning out of the garage and MOST days can start it with start button after work on second try. Is this still a points issue? Would that last dagnabit tight cylinder cause this? Is it something electrical that I'm not even thinking of?? BTW, I did shave off the light stop on my left switch so I can turn off all the lights when I want to, especially at fire-up.

I was going to suggest push starting and check the charging voltages while you have it running. If the battery is good and it still crank slowly then it sounds like something is wrong with the starter or perhaps the motor is difficult to turn over. You mentioned a new starter..... only thing else is engine.
Have you removed the plugs and cranked the engine over by the 19mm bolt on the ignition side to see how easy it turns over?

[posplayr]

POS, you know more about this stuff than I ever will and I don't doubt you are right; but I was responding to the fact he said his starter is barely moving and his dash lights are even dimming. As well as the fact he said that as he pressed the button his voltage dropped down to the single digits.

Either way, I hope you can work it out.

I understood that but the problem with your diagnosis is that the measured voltages indicate that the battery is OK. The ignition and lights provide a pretty reasonable load test that typically only drops the voltage about 0.5V. If the starter were dragging or the engine was hard to turn over the lights would also dim even with a good charged battery.

[surviverguy]

If 1)battery connections are good and 2)starter connections are good and 3)-voltage of battery drops below 10.5 volts during starting (cranking)- (7 seconds or less)- Battery is bad. That's what we call a "battery load test". Battery should be fully charged. Battery voltage should be about 12.5 VDC (engine off).

[posplayr]

If 1)battery connections are good and 2)starter connections are good and 3)-voltage of battery drops below 10.5 volts during starting (cranking)- (7 seconds or less)- 4) and the starter is good 5) and there is no excessive friction in the motor Then you might conclude the Battery is bad. That's what we call a "battery load test". Battery should be fully charged. Battery voltage should be about 12.5 VDC (engine off).

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[surviverguy]

Take the starter and the engine out of the equation. Load test the battery with a load tester or load test it using the lights. With all the lights on and engine not running- see how many minutes it takes to draw the battery down from 12.5-12,8 (full) to 11.00 VDC. The number of minutes it takes to draw down should give an indicator of battery health/weakness/capacity.

[Matchless]

Before getting too theoretical, just try and jump start it from another good battery even your cars... and then go from there

[ikantbreave]

Oh man, I can't explain how embarrassed I am to post this but here goes.. I took the battery to BatteriesPlus where I bought it and wanted to see if there was a way they could help me out (either confirm it's toast or replace it). If not, I was mentally prepared to buy a new battery after pretty much eliminating everything else (or not... ). Take it in, tell the guy that I've had the battery for less than a year and I think it's dead. He picks it up and says "Well, yeah, it's totally dry." No water, at all, nada, nothing, zippo. He puts it on the tester and says 'see, it's dead. whoa, no it's not" It was dry but still showing a charge? He was totally confused, told me to put distilled water in it, throw it on the charger and see if it's okay. I did exactly that, let it charge for a couple hours and started my bike. Rode it around for about 15 minutes too. We'll see how it does tomorrow.

[pete]

Trust me Brion, I actually envy that result...

I still have absolutely no idea how my firing on one cylinder seems to have fixed itself. I swapped everything around, fiddled with this and that, tried to work out what was stopping it, then suddenly spark on both sides again. It did this on two separate rides after a couple of km's and now I can't fault it.

Sometimes silly obvious mistakes can be a blessing... glad you found the issue