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Walking me through the Stator Papers test

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    #16
    Originally posted by oldrookie View Post
    No name R/R





    How the PO grounded the battery to the R/R. This wire was melted when I got the bike.
    I replaced it because I didn't know any other way to do it.




    Found evidence of an over heated POS connector. Not sure if it is new or old, but it looks old to me.


    If I have it my way, and you call for the help after you buy one, you and your side cutters are going to get real friendly, you'll not use any of those wires near the regulator, I'm going to have you trace the 3 alt wires from where they appear at the trans and go up the frame to the backbone to the 3 bullet connectors, that's where we will be using newer wires going directly back to the RR.

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      #17
      For anyone else
      35amp replacement ebay id 190680481981
      25amp 290700915157
      " " 110836998820
      " " 110771663328

      The 35amp is a live auction, the 25 amps are buy it now with free shipping all under $20

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        #18
        Originally posted by old_skool View Post
        No offense, I know you were trying to help, but the seller list it as a sh532, and the pics clearly show it's a sh232, So I wouldn't trust him in the first place, and while if it's in good order, it might work,
        "might work" ? more likely would work! I noticed the the 532; just wrote it off as typo. This is a early Shindengen-used on lots of bikes (including mine) , fully capable of handling a suzuki 250 watt stator output. You can opt for 35 amp R/R's but its overkill. I just wanted to Mr. old_school to try a different one and put this problem behind him.
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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          #19
          I should mention that that ground strap between the Battery(-) to the R/R mounting bolt is doing absolutely nothing for the R/R.

          You need to put a ring lub on the R/R(-) and connect it to the same mounting bolt.

          I also don't see an evidence of dielectric grease.

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            #20
            Originally posted by tom203 View Post
            "might work" ? more likely would work! I noticed the the 532; just wrote it off as typo. This is a early Shindengen-used on lots of bikes (including mine) , fully capable of handling a suzuki 250 watt stator output. You can opt for 35 amp R/R's but its overkill. I just wanted to Mr. old_school to try a different one and put this problem behind him.
            Your taking offense as none was intended, and yes, as I previously stated, it probably would work, but for how long, it's 30+ years old, used with poor wiring, possibly bad connections throughout the bike taxing it's ability and possibly shortening it life, no idea how long it will last, even if it does work, 1 week, or 30 years, I was merely pointing out there are other better option available and almost as inexpensive, most electrical parts have no returns, why throw $10 now and maybe more later, rather than buying the first thing that comes along, a little thought about the whole process might save money and headaches in the long run. As far as overkill, no such thing, it allows greater voltage without overheating and shorting as fast, if they weren't useful, they wouldn't be using them on other bikes, and we wouldn't be replacing ours. Think of it in terms of like using a heavier gauge wire, can handle more voltage should the unexpected need arise.

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              #21
              Nope, I don't offend easily! You can get what you want to feel comfortable, but I don't want everyone thinking they need the 35 amp R/R when others are just as useable. Some of the early 80's hondas had bigger stators then suzuki and used the sh-232 with no problem. The suzuki stator and wiring is the weak link no matter which R/R you choose and how new it is.
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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