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Regulator/Rectifier Suspicion
Decided I'd take her out (her = my '82 GS110GL) yesterday afternoon to a local client. I got 3/4 of the way there and she shut off coasting to a stop at a light (I knew she was going to stall because she was acting funny). Couldn't get her started.
I regroup after walking back home for tools and a friend (I always prefer a second set of eyes). We return and the main fuse is blown. Luckily, I don't need heated seats in my car so I was able to replace it. I notice that it doesn't want to stay running without the choke on, and when the choke's on full it sits at around 2k rpm (instead of the nearly 3k which is normal).
I get it down the road a little further after revving it a bit (mistakenly thinking the engine needs to warm up). This time, I take note of the behavior when it dies again:
- 4th gear indicator light gets brighter and brighter
- engine starts acting funny
- 4th gear indicator blows out, I pull in the clutch, and the engine stalls immediately
This time, it fried both the main fuse and the ignition fuse. I'm in 'get it home at all costs' mode, so I just pull the signal fuse and stick it in the ignition slot. Replace the main fuse, start it up, keep the RPMs as low as possible the whole ride back. Success.
So here's my thought process I want to bounce off you guys:
- the R/R box is fried. The stator is successfully recharging the electrical system, but due to the lack of regulation it is pushing too much through the circuit, perhaps in the wrong direction.
- If the stator had failed, I don't believe I would experience too much current being pushed (wouldn't it be none at all?). Has anybody ever heard of a bad stator throwing wayyy too much current? That would be the only way I would think BOTH RR and stator went.
- How much of a pain in the ass is it to replace those gear-indicator bulbs. 3rd was already out when I got the bike, but having 3-5 out is no good (and my brake lights and headlight... blegh)
Gotta love the timing... I've got an advanced rider course in 10 days scheduled already where I'm counting on having a bike to ride.
I regroup after walking back home for tools and a friend (I always prefer a second set of eyes). We return and the main fuse is blown. Luckily, I don't need heated seats in my car so I was able to replace it. I notice that it doesn't want to stay running without the choke on, and when the choke's on full it sits at around 2k rpm (instead of the nearly 3k which is normal).
I get it down the road a little further after revving it a bit (mistakenly thinking the engine needs to warm up). This time, I take note of the behavior when it dies again:
- 4th gear indicator light gets brighter and brighter
- engine starts acting funny
- 4th gear indicator blows out, I pull in the clutch, and the engine stalls immediately
This time, it fried both the main fuse and the ignition fuse. I'm in 'get it home at all costs' mode, so I just pull the signal fuse and stick it in the ignition slot. Replace the main fuse, start it up, keep the RPMs as low as possible the whole ride back. Success.
So here's my thought process I want to bounce off you guys:
- the R/R box is fried. The stator is successfully recharging the electrical system, but due to the lack of regulation it is pushing too much through the circuit, perhaps in the wrong direction.
- If the stator had failed, I don't believe I would experience too much current being pushed (wouldn't it be none at all?). Has anybody ever heard of a bad stator throwing wayyy too much current? That would be the only way I would think BOTH RR and stator went.
- How much of a pain in the ass is it to replace those gear-indicator bulbs. 3rd was already out when I got the bike, but having 3-5 out is no good (and my brake lights and headlight... blegh)
Gotta love the timing... I've got an advanced rider course in 10 days scheduled already where I'm counting on having a bike to ride.
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