Noobie Question - Minimum wiring to make 78 GS750E run

[tweekin2]

Pics of my temporary wiring

Hey gang, I thought I would provide some pictures of the wiring that I did to get this running.

I took a generic switch with 12v to batt, switched went to the two orange wires on the Coils. Verified that when I turned on the switch these wires read 12v.

Took the black and white wires coming from points and hooked them to the same colors on the coils.

Turned the switch, grounded #4 plug, no spark. Tried the same with #1 and #3. Thus testing both coils.

I also made my own plug wires, and verified continuity from coil end to center of lug jacket.

One of my problems, is that I have never heard it run, so any of the parts could be bad, or need to be tested to prove they aren't the issue.

More head scratching tonight.

I will continue to search the forums for all the troubleshooting info that I can find. Anyone happen to live in Denver ;-)
I really don't want to take this to someone to sort out, but I am also worried wasting too much time chasing a broken part.

Thoughts?
Thanks again, Cory

Ed, once I hear it run I will be able to decide what my route on the exhaust will be. It doesn't have a baffle in the now, so I expect it to be LOUD. Looking at a new exhaust probably. This one seems to have about 2" of ground clearance, which will be scraping for sure.

[tweekin2]

Pic 2 battery and Sig Gen wires

Battery and Sig Gen wires going to coils.

[tweekin2]

Pic 3 Top view of Coil

Top view of Coil

[Nessism]

You have the wrong coils if your bike has points. 3.0 ohm coils are for use with an electronic ignition.

[tweekin2]

Holy Igniter Batman...

Ok, so this may really show how little I know about this system.
Igniter, should this be going between the white/black from the points to the coils? I was just reading another schematic and Repair_and_Fault_Finding doc on BassCliffs site. And something caught my eye.

Do I need an igniter? If I do, that may be the problem. And it is certainly missing from my box of parts that I got with the bike. If that is only for later models someone please let me know.

Does anyone have some pictures that they may have taken during a rebuild? A pic is worth 1000 words.

More reading....

[tweekin2]

Points or electronic ignition?

Ed, if it is electronic ignition, wouldn't there be a third "power" wire on the harness coming out of the right side? What should I be looking for?
I will take some pics tonight and post them.

If I wanted to replace the "whole" ignition, what does everyone recommend. In the long run, it may be cheaper to just buy new, and have it out of the way?

[Nessism]

Ed, if it is electronic ignition, wouldn't there be a third "power" wire on the harness coming out of the right side? What should I be looking for?
I will take some pics tonight and post them.

If I wanted to replace the "whole" ignition, what does everyone recommend. In the long run, it may be cheaper to just buy new, and have it out of the way?

Cory,

Do you have the original wiring harness? If so, trace out the ignition circuit on your wiring diagram, then go to work stripping out the appropriate wires from the harness. I seem to remember the circuit being pretty simple so there won't be all that many wires.

[tweekin2]

Signal Generator

Ok, so here is where I am over my head.
I don't know if the parts that came in the box will work together.
Here is the picture of the signal generator.
No distinguishing markings on it that I can see.

I have "simplified" the harness, by using new wires to bypass the crappy harness that I have. Once running, I will use/make the harness fulfill my needs. I just need to get past this lack of spark issue that appears to be keeping it from running.

I will post two additional pics with the only markings I could find and the side of the Dyna Coil.
Thanks again!
Cory

[tweekin2]

Signal Gen

Here is the larger view

[tweekin2]

Dyna Coil

Here is the side of the Dyna Coil

[tweekin2]

Upgrade the ignition

So Ed pointed out the 3.0 ohm coils.
So would it make sense to upgrade to this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-S-Electronic-Ignition-Suzuki-GS550-GS750-GS850-GS1000-GS1100-77-78-79-80-81-/380382026185?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item58908919c9

As I already have the coils??

http://stores.ebay.com/ATV-Galaxy/_i.html?_fsub=7

May be cheaper than finding the igniter and proper coils?

Thanks again,
Cory

[Nessism]

Cory,
Those are points, not a signal generator. You don't need the ignitor, and you should use different coils...or get that Dyna S and keep the coils.

[tweekin2]

Thanks ED!

Ok, so what I am hearing is that by getting the proper coils, this should be ready to run.

Does anyone have a parts list online so I can find the proper part number?

Once again, the knowledge on this forum is awesome!!

Cheers,
Cory

[Starboard M]

Cory, I live in Denver, and have the stock wiring harness off my bike I can bring over.

Im terrible at wiring, so I wouldnt be much help, but a stock harness might be useful?



Either way, figure it all out for me, I will be doing the same with my '79 750!

[joejeweler]

Suzuki's charging system wiring has some serious issues. It's strongly advised that you rewire the bike to eliminate the convoluted stator wiring. More specifically, route the stator wires directly into the R/R - do NOT hook it up into the factory harness.

Make sure the R/R is grounded to the frame or battery.

R/R power output can go straight to the battery with a 15A fuse in line, or you can route though the fuse box after verifying you have a low resistance path.

Just wondering, since i just completed an upgrade on the bike in my sig using an FH012AA Mosfet type R/R, if the recommended fuse size "is" 15A in the + leading directly to the battery?

The reason i ask is i added in a "Mini-Fuse" inline on the + posiioned near the battery, and just put a 30A fuse in when i got done with the install.

......i used a 30A because Jack at http://roadstercycle.com/ , in his videos, is using a 30A auto-reset circuit breaker type fusing.

I went with the simpler solid fuse, but now i'm wondering if the circuit breaker type needs a bit higher amp rating to avoid repeated cut outs?

......is a 30A mini-fuse too much?