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Possible stator upgrade for a 77 gs750???

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    Possible stator upgrade for a 77 gs750???

    Are there any newer direct swaps for stators in the 1977 gs750????

    #2
    That should be a 12 pole stator. The newer stators are an 18 pole type. 12 and 18 pole stators are not interchangeable. If you are looking for a replacement, your options are new oem (if available) , an aftermarket such as a 'ricks' stator, or a used one.

    You might be able to replace the 12 pole with a 18 pole if you use the 18 pole style flywheel along with it. (if that's even possible!)

    ******
    What's your intended purpose?
    Last edited by rustybronco; 06-07-2012, 10:42 AM.
    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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      #3
      The one I have is dead and needs to be replaced. Was just researching options on something newer as a replacement. Don't want to put a used one from 77 back on it and be in the same boat again.

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        #4
        Get a new one, but fix the charging system first so it doesn't fry again.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #5
          Did you actually do the checks across all 3 legs with the bike running? Not to be a smart azz, but some peole dont test and assume the thing is dead. If you did and it a gonner, i suggest Rics.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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            #6
            That sounds like a bit of logicial thinking on your part.

            But, if you do decide to go with a used unit, PM me. I have one from a 79 GS850 which should be in good shape.
            De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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              #7
              I did a no load test all legs made 20vac.
              Last edited by Guest; 06-07-2012, 02:06 PM. Reason: Ment VAC not VDC.

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                #8
                The output voltage will be A.C. not D.C. and should be 70~up volts A.C. @ 5,000 rpm's 'ish.
                De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  Get a new one, but fix the charging system first so it doesn't fry again.
                  What would cause that? Bad connectors? Dead rectifier? Tested the rectifier and had continuity in both directions so I'll have to replace it as well and the regulator to while I'm at. The connectors for the recruiter are blackened so I'll have to replace them too. Any thing else I should look out for????

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Greetings and Salutations!!

                    Hi Mr. Sinister Imaging,

                    You need to test your stator for AC volts on all three legs. You will find proper testing and replacement procedures in the links below, your "mega-welcome" package.

                    Yes, you can install a newer aftermarket 18 pole stator but you must also install the rotor from a 1980 or later motorcycle of similar displacement. The difference is that the older magnetic rotors have 4 magnets to go with the 12 pole stator. The newer rotors have 6 magnets to go with the 18 pole stators. (It's a three phase system.) There should be plenty on eBay. Or check the Parts Wanted and Parts For Sale sections of the forum. See the stator replacement guide on my website to get an idea of what's involved.

                    Anyway, let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

                    I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

                    If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

                    Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



                    Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

                    Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

                    Thank you for your indulgence,

                    BassCliff

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                      #11
                      Do the charging tests. No matter if you keep your 12 pole setup or change rotor/stator to 18 pole unit, you can opt for a combo rectifier/ regulator to replace the seperate units that you have now.
                      1981 gs650L

                      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                        #12
                        Just put in electrosport stator and rr unit into my gs750 and yesterday had a look at old stator ,insulation looks fine and a bit of probing removed carbonized insulating tape and found the wires had been cut and joined about 3 inches from the stator and the two of the wires were broken and by the evidence shorting together hence in situ failure of impedence test.cut off the remaining bits of wire and lo and behold dead equal resistance of all legs and within spec.Even the diodes in the rr unit are ok.
                        Still not charging well though cleaned loom connections but still getting 2v drop over the ignition switch,by the time its fed back to fusebox its only just over 10v.Next mission dismantle the switch and clean out the spiders.

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