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Regulator/Rectifier Bad and Not Stator?

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    Regulator/Rectifier Bad and Not Stator?

    I tested out the charging system on my friend's bike. The Stator is definitely A-OK for the time being (checked out for coil continuity, short to ground, and voltage output for all lead combos), but the Regulator/Rectifier seems bad.

    I'm hesitant because I was under the impression it's uncommon for just the R/R to be bad. However, if I can confirm that this is the case, my question is: if I replace only the R/R unit with the ElectroSport recommended in the stator papers (with proper grounding and all clean connections in the system), how likely is it that my stator will go bad and fry the new R/R later on down the road?

    I was under the impression from the stator papers that the ElectroSport R/R may be able to handle things well enough that I wouldn't have to worry, but I wanted to clarify in advance. I believe in frugality, but if it's a serious threat to the R/R, keeping the old stator wouldn't actually be the frugal choice.

    (P.S. I apologize if the issue was addressed elsewhere. I tried sorting through the forum posts on Stators & R/R's, but didn't see it.)

    #2
    * First off Do not buy an Electrosport R/R!!!!

    Place your GS electrical or ignition related questions in this forum.


    * Second Read this:

    Read about GS Charging Health

    * Third if you want a quick answer on where you stand do a
    Quick Test and report all the voltages back here.

    Charging system sanity Quick Test

    Comment


      #3
      While there is nothing inherently wrong with an Electrosport R/R, be aware that they were a sponsor when the Stator Papers were written, so they were mentioned.

      If you want something a little more affordable, get an R/R from a Honda motorcycle or ATV. If it has six wires instead of the stock five, it's a plus. The sixth wire is a sensor wire to monitor the output and make some adjustments to get it right on the money.

      Even better, but a little more money is to search for an FET-based unit. They use more-efficient FET transistors to do the switching in the regulator, so they run a bit cooler and have a little higher output at lower engine speeds.

      Probably the best solution would be to find a series regulator. They control the voltage by interrupting current flow instead of shunting it to ground, so are probably the best, although most expensive, solution.

      For more information, look up user Posplayr, look at any of his posts. In his signature, he has all the info that you could possibly want.

      Oh, approximate prices for the various regulators: the standard Honda one can probably be found on eBay for $20-25, the FET unit might be about $40, the series units are probably going to have to be new, probably about $160.

      .
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      Comment


        #4
        Ok, wow, glad I asked. Good to know about the sponsorship bias. I'll investigate those alternatives further.

        The question still remains on the table, though: If I get a new R/R that's better than the stock, will keeping the original stator be much of a risk to the charging system? Should I be replacing both even though the stator is testing out fine?

        Comment


          #5
          Greetings and Salutations!!

          Hi Mr. caltrop,

          Please take an hour or two and check out all of the electrical and charging system information I've collected on my little website. You'll find picture guides, wiring diagrams, extra information about stators, regulator/rectifiers, batteries, testing, replacement, etc.

          Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

          I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

          If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

          Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



          Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

          Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by caltrop View Post
            Ok, wow, glad I asked. Good to know about the sponsorship bias. I'll investigate those alternatives further.

            The question still remains on the table, though: If I get a new R/R that's better than the stock, will keeping the original stator be much of a risk to the charging system? Should I be replacing both even though the stator is testing out fine?
            the stator is not likely to harm the R/R, but I'm not so sure about the rest of your conclusions without some basic running tests.

            Comment


              #7
              Often times the Stator is blamed, when it's really the RR failing.
              But by time you realize the truth...the stator gets taken down as collateral damage.
              (that's what happened to my 650g)

              I would just replace both at the same time, they're probably over 25 ****in years old! lol
              You can't expect a bike plagued with charging issues to perform after that long...it needs to be gone threw and ripped out and fresh parts installed.

              Comment


                #8
                I see all the info and alternative recommendations for r/r's but I dont see the same sort of alternative list for stators. Are we stuck with the Electrosport or OEM stators or is there another, less expensive, alternative?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Go to fleabay. Lots of choices there.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Is there something inherently wrong with electrosport?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ekabil View Post
                      Is there something inherently wrong with electrosport?
                      Apparently, their R/R's have been found less than stellar- the alternatives (like the Shindengens) have given better results at much less cost.
                      A few days back I posted a link to a dissatisfied ES stator customer- good reading . Here it is again

                      1981 gs650L

                      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                      Comment


                        #12
                        While following the "Fault finding chart" in the stator papers, it says to check ohms readings between the three yellow wires emerging from the stator. There are only two yellow wires emerging from the stator on my 1979 GS1000, one green w/white and two white w/blue. How do I proceed with the test?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Check back in the wire bundle, they twinned the yellow and white/blue to go to the separate rectifier and regulator. You really have one yellow, one white/blue and one green/white. Same thing as three yellow. Welcome to the forum. If you put your bike year and model in your signature and post a location, It will make it easier for people dropping into a thread to help you.
                          Last edited by OldVet66; 07-21-2012, 10:15 PM.
                          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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