Results of Quick Test and Stator Test

[Guest]

So I have done my research. Ive read, re-read and studied the Stator Papers and now I have some results I would like to share for help interpreting.

Background: Brand new to me 1982 GS 1100E. Bike appears to have brand new stator (3 yellow wires) and R/R (3 yellow wires, one red, one black ground to battery neg). (Pics below). Battery was purchased by me this week and is brand new.

First ride of the bike was =/- two hours with a couple short stops. Indicator lights, Battery, Head Lamp, Tail Lamp and occasionallly Stop Lamp kept coming on during the ride, fading out then going off and coming back on. Got home. Parked bike, went to start her... battery dead (note this was the first ride with a brand new fully charged battery)

Quick Test Results:
1. 12.8 V Key off (Did a quick charge on my battery)
2. 11.98 Key On
3. 12.12 At Idle
4. 12.31 At 2500 RPM
5. N/A
6. Key Off 12.39

Stator Test Procedure Results:

(A)
1. Battery Voltage at Start, prior to key on, 12.80V
2. Engine Idling Red multi-meter lead to Red output R/R. Black multi-meter lead to Battery +. Result -0.25V (Does this make sense?)
3. Red multi-meter lead to battery negative, black multi-meter lead to R/R negative. Can not be done, this R/R has ground connected to battery negative.


(B)
1. Engine stopped, Ohms setting of 200 on multi-meter. Test between Stator wires. Result all read exactly 0.5 Ohms
2. One multimeter lead on stator wire, one on casing. Result of 0.5 for two of the wires and nothing for the other.
3. AC voltage, bike at 5000 RPM all stator wires read just about 60V even.

©
1. Diode test position. Red multimeter lead to Red positive output wire of the RR, black multimeter to yellow wires of RR. Result was no reading for any of the yellow wires.
2. Black multimeter lead to Red RR output wire. Red multimeter lead to yellow wire. Result was 515 for all yellow wires.
3. Black multimeter lead to negative output R/R. Red multimeter lead to yellow wire. Result was one wire had a reading that bounced around before settling in on 000. The others had nothing.
4. Red mulit-meter lead to negative output of R/R. Black multi-meter lead yellow wire. Result two wires had a reading of 515. The same wire that showed 000 before still showed 000 in this test.

Your interpretations would be much appreciated before I open up my wallet and start changing out parts on this new "turn key" bike. Thanks in advance!!

[BassCliff]

Hi,

2. One multimeter lead on stator wire, one on casing. Result of 0.5 for two of the wires and nothing for the other.

If you are testing for continuity between the stator legs and frame ground, there should be no connection at all, infinite resistance. The stator windings should not be connected to the case at all.

The r/r unit seems OK. What is the battery voltage at 4000-5000 rpm? I'm a little worried about your stator.

2. Engine Idling Red multi-meter lead to Red output R/R. Black multi-meter lead to Battery +. Result -0.25V (Does this make sense?)

Does this value go up as you rev the engine? If so, that's bad. It usually means corrosion in the wiring harness.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Caseyuconn]

Thank you for the quick reply.

I re-ran test "2. Engine Idling Red multi-meter lead to Red output R/R. Black multi-meter lead to Battery +." The results did not appear to move much with reving the motor. Note I have peeled apart much of the wiring harnes covering and the wires (at least the outer layers) appear fairly clean and in good shape.

My neighbors decision to procreate and my V&H exhaust stop me from being able to run the 4-5k RPM test at this hour but I will get back to you tomorrow with results.

Now I suspect the stator as well, however I have no feeling on how good the R/R is. If (when) I replace the stator, if the R/R is bad as well.. could this have a negative effect or ruin my brand new stator? Is there any utility in simply replacing the pair or is that an un-necessary step?