Blinker relay clicks when I push start button??

[Tola]

Finished rebuilding front end, prior to dismantling bike would turn over fine and all buttons worked as intended. I took good notes and pics and wiring is back as it should be ( I think).

Here's the problem, when I turn key on and hit start button a faint click can be heard in the blinker relay which I assume is wrong. If I turn the blinkers on they just stay on until I hit the start button, then they blink for as long as I hold the start button down!?

Connectors are clean, grounds are clean, battery is fully charged.

One thing that I noticed are 2 empty connectors behind headlight, one is a brown wire male, other is a double orange female. Brown looks like it's always been empty, 1 side of orange looks like it had a wire in it at one point?

[Steve]

The brown wires is an accessory wire, it was used on some of the larger-displacement bikes that had running lights in the front signals.

Is that orange wire SOLID orange or does it have a white stripe on it?
The only solid orange wire is the one that is switched by the ignition key and powers the fuse box, therefore, the rest of the bike.

If it's orange with a white stripe, it's the ignition wire. It could be on either side of the "kill" switch.

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[Tola]

The orange wire is a single solid orange into a double plastic covered female plug. I'm thinking it may be for the front brake switch since when I pulled everything apart orange wire from switch was unplugged.

All switches in the throttle work and have continuity to startes solenoid. I do have rear brake foot lever and some other parts off bike, do I need all these on for bike to start?

[Steve]

OK, there is something different going on with your bike than with others I have seen. I just looked at the wiring diagram for your bike and found that the supply wire to the front brake does, indeed, have a bouble-barreled connector in it. The front brake switch plugs into one side of it. On the diagram, there is a jumper wire that goes to ... nowhere. It appears to be a switched accessory wire.



Here is an offer for you: if you don't get it figured out by next weekend, I will be in Randolph for a full week.
It's not that far away, I can stop by and give you a hand. Say, ... next Saturday afternoon or Sunday?

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[Tola]

Steve, thanks for the offer. It's a little bit of a drive ( good 40 minutes) from Randolph but if your in the area that would be great. I'm going to work on it a bit as time allows and I'll keep post updated. Just can't figure out why it won't turn over? Was fine before. I pulled carbs off to clean, front end and pulled all the relays and solenoid off to clean contacts. Bike is nowhere close to being road worthy yet, just want to focus on engine before money goes into rest of it.

[Killer2600]

Do you have a voltmeter? If so you can test the power going to and coming from the starter button.

I'd guess that things didn't get hooked up right and that your starter button has no power going to it (kill switch in run position I hope/assume) and the blinker clicks when the button is pushed because of the connection to ground. But that's just an over the internet hypothesis.

[Steve]

Steve, thanks for the offer. It's a little bit of a drive ( good 40 minutes) from Randolph but if your in the area that would be great.

Only 40 minutes? That would make it the second-shortest visit I have done to help someone.

Send me some contact info in a PM, we can discuss it off-line.

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[Tola]

Only 40 minutes? That would make it the second-shortest visit I have done to help someone.

Send me some contact info in a PM, we can discuss it off-line.

.

OK, sounds good-

[Tola]

I have a volt meter so I'll check for current. One question I have which may be an issue is the ignition switch. The manual says it has three positions, OFF,ON, P. Mine goes from off to on and everything works, oil pressure light comes on etc..., when I turn it to the 3rd position everything is turned off again and I can pull the key out. Is this correct? Also, clymer manual says most likely situation for no start is open circuit in starter relay?

[cowboyup3371]

Yes but if you use P (Park) you'll leave your tail light on just enough to drain the battery after a few days. Turn the key to Off instead.

[Steve]

Yes but if you use P (Park) you'll leave your tail light on just enough to drain the battery after a few days. Turn the key to Off instead.

Minor correction to that, your battery will be dead in less than a few HOURS.

There is actually a fourth position, it is to the left of OFF, it is called LOCK.
Your forks must be turned all the way to either side before turning the key to LOCK, the forks will then be held in that position.
Be careful before using this position, though, some owners have found that the mechanism sticks and could not UN-lock.

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[Killer2600]

I have a volt meter so I'll check for current. One question I have which may be an issue is the ignition switch. The manual says it has three positions, OFF,ON, P. Mine goes from off to on and everything works, oil pressure light comes on etc..., when I turn it to the 3rd position everything is turned off again and I can pull the key out. Is this correct? Also, clymer manual says most likely situation for no start is open circuit in starter relay?

For a bike that has not been recently touched and with a good battery the clymer manual would be right for a "No Crank-No Start" if it cranks then obviously the starter relay is functioning.

Minor correction to that, your battery will be dead in less than a few HOURS.

There is actually a fourth position, it is to the left of OFF, it is called LOCK.
Your forks must be turned all the way to either side before turning the key to LOCK, the forks will then be held in that position.
Be careful before using this position, though, some owners have found that the mechanism sticks and could not UN-lock.

.

From what I've read here not all the GS'es have a LOCK position - notably the baby GS'es.

[Steve]

From what I've read here not all the GS'es have a LOCK position - notably the baby GS'es.

Really? I was not aware of that.

I thought they all had a LOCK.

Also have never thought of a 750 as a "baby" GS.

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[Killer2600]

Really? I was not aware of that.

I thought they all had a LOCK.

Also have never thought of a 750 as a "baby" GS.

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From what I've read here, not all of them do.

A 750 is not a baby gs, anything less is, or maybe anything less than 600 I dunno

[Tola]

So power I have power at starter switch and it goes in/out of start button and makes it through grn/ylw wire to starter solenoid. So I ordered a new solenoid today. I know I shouldn't do this but when I bridged the + and - terminal on top of solenoid starter for a split second starter turned right over.