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Is this a normal size for a R/R (pic)
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Is this a normal size for a R/R (pic)
I was just wondering if this is a normal size for a single unit r/r. I just received this in mail to replace my two unit r/r and its not going work with the space I have. If its not, I'm going to return it and find a different one closer to the size I currently have. Thanks.Tags: None
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7981GS
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13994
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Yes fairly typical for a modern one. Size is good... helps to dissipate the heat1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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BassCliff
Hi,
The part on top look like a rectifier only. The part on the bottom is an integrated rectifier/regulator unit with extra cooling fins. Hence the size difference. It should would like gangbusters!
Need a wiring diagram?
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Tukn20s
The top one is off my bike and yes it is the rectifier only. The regulator is about the same size. I was going to replace my individual units with a integrated as many have recommended.
My bike and frame have been modified quite a bit so I am pretty limited on space. So I don't know what I am going to do at this point. Would a single unit of an older bike be any smaller or are all the integrated units larger like that?
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spyug
Lots of them are smaller but often turn out to be inferior in performance in that they overheat and burn up. The bigger the better really but you should be able to find something about the size of the palm of your hand maybe 2 or 2.5" square. The Shindengens typically used on Hondas have a very good reputation for being robust.
what did that big one come off of? I haven't seen one quite that large before.
Good luck with it.
spyug
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Tukn20s
Not sure what its from. It was listed to fit my bike. Its a new unit, not sure if its off a particular bike or not.
Any recommendations for one more manageable in size but still of good quality?
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surviverguy
Originally posted by spyug View PostLots of them are smaller but often turn out to be inferior in performance in that they overheat and burn up. The bigger the better really but you should be able to find something about the size of the palm of your hand maybe 2 or 2.5" square. The Shindengens typically used on Hondas have a very good reputation for being robust.
what did that big one come off of? I haven't seen one quite that large before.
Good luck with it.
spyug
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surviverguy
Mine was used on a Kawasaki ATV in it's previous life. It's larger than the Suzuki original. I had to make a "special" bracket to mount it. The left side electrical panel didn't have enough room. I chose the right side as an alternative mounting position as it gets lots of airflow and cooling there.Last edited by Guest; 06-30-2012, 12:26 PM.
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surviverguy
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cid
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Tukn20s
I ended up keeping the r/r. I didn't want the down time of returning it and then ordering another. I relocated the r/r to another spot that had more room and provides better air flow and cooling. I figured this was something that should be done anyway.
Now that I have everything wired and the bike running, I'm only getting a reading of high 12 volts under throttle. There is minimal change between idle and acceleration. Does this sound correct? It seems that most of the articles I have read state 14-15 volts.
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Tukn20s
The voltage remains up as long as the throttle is up. It does not fluctuate with a steady throttle. However, it never exceeds 12.8-12.9 volts. The r/r is wired directly to the battery. Also, I just finished fixing a lot of the wiring and installing new connectors. The bike was rewired by the PO and I had fix some things that were incorrect. It was reaching 16+ volts so that was the reason for the new r/r.
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koolaid_kid
You are not charging. If it was rectifying but not regulating, you would be back on the 16V or so. Therefore, I would check the connections to the stator, and check the AC output of the stator.
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