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    #16
    Originally posted by Doldrums View Post
    Can you just clarify where you are putting this 20A fuse? Between R/R and battery?
    Yes. Try adding one that's 5 amps over your main. That should account for the average battery charging amps. I'm still with the "sticking with the stock split configuration" group.


    Toasty,

    I know this is very disappointing. I was reading your "what kiils stators?" posts. I'll check later to see what you find. One more check is for any damaged insulation on the wires from the R/R to the stator connections.
    Erik

    1982 GS550M

    Dyna S, Dyna greens, coil relay mod w/LED, Sonic Springs (.90)

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      #17
      Oops koolaid_kid. I tend to delay on my posts if it's time for another cup of coffee (see avatar) and miss what somebody else writes.
      Erik

      1982 GS550M

      Dyna S, Dyna greens, coil relay mod w/LED, Sonic Springs (.90)

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        #18
        Dielectric grease does not conduct, but any insulation pressed thin enough conducts, so it's a moot point on connections. Good stuff use it on all connections, it inhibits moisture and corrosion, and will not inhibit current flow where it needs to. The beauty is that it can be used on multiple close connections without bleeding current over between the connections.
        Last edited by OldVet66; 07-03-2012, 10:59 PM.
        http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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          #19
          Okay so I just tested the AC voltage through the stator legs. At 5,000 rpm it's only putting out 48-50 volts and one leg is totally dead. I also noticed when revving it from idle to 5,000 on one leg it spiked up to 108 volts for a split second and then stopped at 50V, maybe that's just a multimeter error though.

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            #20
            If the stator blackens, consider it toast. I was lucky and got a year out of one before it went but it is on it's way out and will fail. Make sure to use Loctite on the screws, or they will back out and cause you trouble later.
            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
              Dielectric grease does not conduct, but any insulation pressed thin enough conducts, so it's a moot point on connections. Good stuff use it on all connections, it inhibits moisture and corrosion, and will not inhibit current flow where it needs to.

              Thanks for adding this info OldVet66, and yes, dielectric grease is used on all of my connections. I tend to use just a very thin coating on my R/R to stator connections though. A bunch goes in the back sides always. I had one of the insulated spades burn itself up once after brand new connections throughout anything related to the charging system. Never happened again after replacing it. Although a moot point as you say, I tend to worry about any loss with these connections in particular. It must stem from reading all the GS charging system horror stories and wanting to stay ahead of any potential problem. Hmmm..... I guess I'm being a little crazy with this part of it. Oh well.


              Originally posted by Toasty View Post
              With a higher quality stator, compufire and an oil spray hopefully it'll be bulletproof.
              Like this idea alot for you, especially the Compufire part. If the oil spray is not too difficult this would be cool. It looked like yours got at least some oil to hit it from the pictures. Good luck.
              Erik

              1982 GS550M

              Dyna S, Dyna greens, coil relay mod w/LED, Sonic Springs (.90)

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                #22
                Ok I'm about to pull the trigger on the compu-fire and Ricks stator. I found the stator for $30 cheaper in amazon and the same company had the compu-fire too.I'm just debating if I want the free 3-5 day shipping or expedited for 20 bucks.

                Here goes about $300...

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                  #23
                  Toasty, why not a oem stator?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by rubline View Post
                    Toasty, why not a oem stator?
                    OEM stator's are really expensive. I'd go for the Ricks and Compufire.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #25
                      Mine lasted 30 years and 35000 miles, It seems to me maybe the added expense might be worth it.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                        Ok I'm about to pull the trigger on the compu-fire and Ricks stator. I found the stator for $30 cheaper in amazon and the same company had the compu-fire too.I'm just debating if I want the free 3-5 day shipping or expedited for 20 bucks.

                        Here goes about $300...
                        That would be the route I would go. Another point is that the stator output is directly proportional to engine rpm and not regulated by the stator. The R/R does all the regulating. Excess charging current is shunted to ground, so you must always have the headlight on. Otherwise, the R/R will run too hot and fail quickly. A worn out battery, or nearly worn out battery will also cause early R/R and stator failure. I would put a new, sealed, maintenance free, glass mat battery in the bike too.
                        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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                          #27
                          I have a gel battery on the bike right now, I had it tested a month or so ago and it was fine.

                          I checked the stator today, not as bad as before but one definitely toasted



                          The new stator and compufire is getting here on tuesday. I need to order a new chain/sprockets too so I have a lot of assembling to do this week before the GS meet.

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