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Hello, happy Fourth of July!
Soon after I acquired my 13,500 mile GS1100GL, I began to have issues starting her (and charging). After lots of connection repairs, and cleaning, I replaced the stator, RR (which killed the stator when it went).
Still had problems starting. Just slow cranking. Eventually it just would not start, went from slow cranking (barely turning over) to no cranking - no click, no nothing. For a brief period, I could get it to slowly turn over if I mashed the button very hard. Soon thought even this failed to work. Ruled out solenoid, was about to rebuild the starter motor, when for some reason I decided to look at the starter button assembly. I'm not sure why I did, I still don't understand why that would cause slow cranking, but I am glad I did because that was the problem!
Once I took apart the RH assembly, I cleaned every contact, using a wire brush, contact cleaner, and q-tips. I also found a screw inside the actual button that was tilted sideways. This must have been the problem, since it was tilted at an angle, it wasn't making good contact with the base. So, I straightened it out, put a bunch of super glue in the button, and held the screw straight while it dried.
I also eliminated the clutch safety segment in the headlight bucket. This was a graciously easy task since the connectors were already right there. My new button works! At least, for a few days. It sat a week while I waited for and installed a new stator. Now that I am trying to start it again, I have to push hard to get it to crank normally. If I just push it in normally, the engine cranks slowly. If I push it in a bit harder, it cranks fast like it is supposed to.
My question is, can a weak RH assembly cause this? The battery current to actually start the motor doesn't even pass through there, since the current drawn by the motor through the solenoid is massive compared to the current that engages the solenoid (which does go through the assembly/start button). I don't see how the current in the switch circuit could be proportional to the current to the starter motor - Isn't the solenoid just a big relay? If the current controlling the relay (the switch/starter button current) is "on", then the big current gets turned "on". Is there some halfway point between "on" and "off" in the controlling circuit that will have a limiting effect on the big current?
Also, if I replace the whole assembly, will an ATV starter switch assembly work? They are all over ebay for up to $20. I can't find one without headlight controls but I think I can just ignore those wires. If anyone knows of a good source for assemblies without headlight controls, just the killswitch and starter button, let me know! Especially if they are cheap. Man I don't know about yours, but this bike is a money hole
hey, I fixed the weird spelling mistake in the title but it still hasn't changed. Wierd Weird Weird
Soon after I acquired my 13,500 mile GS1100GL, I began to have issues starting her (and charging). After lots of connection repairs, and cleaning, I replaced the stator, RR (which killed the stator when it went).
Still had problems starting. Just slow cranking. Eventually it just would not start, went from slow cranking (barely turning over) to no cranking - no click, no nothing. For a brief period, I could get it to slowly turn over if I mashed the button very hard. Soon thought even this failed to work. Ruled out solenoid, was about to rebuild the starter motor, when for some reason I decided to look at the starter button assembly. I'm not sure why I did, I still don't understand why that would cause slow cranking, but I am glad I did because that was the problem!
Once I took apart the RH assembly, I cleaned every contact, using a wire brush, contact cleaner, and q-tips. I also found a screw inside the actual button that was tilted sideways. This must have been the problem, since it was tilted at an angle, it wasn't making good contact with the base. So, I straightened it out, put a bunch of super glue in the button, and held the screw straight while it dried.
I also eliminated the clutch safety segment in the headlight bucket. This was a graciously easy task since the connectors were already right there. My new button works! At least, for a few days. It sat a week while I waited for and installed a new stator. Now that I am trying to start it again, I have to push hard to get it to crank normally. If I just push it in normally, the engine cranks slowly. If I push it in a bit harder, it cranks fast like it is supposed to.
My question is, can a weak RH assembly cause this? The battery current to actually start the motor doesn't even pass through there, since the current drawn by the motor through the solenoid is massive compared to the current that engages the solenoid (which does go through the assembly/start button). I don't see how the current in the switch circuit could be proportional to the current to the starter motor - Isn't the solenoid just a big relay? If the current controlling the relay (the switch/starter button current) is "on", then the big current gets turned "on". Is there some halfway point between "on" and "off" in the controlling circuit that will have a limiting effect on the big current?
Also, if I replace the whole assembly, will an ATV starter switch assembly work? They are all over ebay for up to $20. I can't find one without headlight controls but I think I can just ignore those wires. If anyone knows of a good source for assemblies without headlight controls, just the killswitch and starter button, let me know! Especially if they are cheap. Man I don't know about yours, but this bike is a money hole
hey, I fixed the weird spelling mistake in the title but it still hasn't changed. Wierd Weird Weird
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