Dyna S install- help needed

[OldVet66]

It will work fine spliced in right up buy the coils on either orange white wire. That will insure the ignition has the same voltage as coil voltage. Those wires are soldered to the same feed from the kill switch about two inches forward of where it comes out of the bundle. Fixing the electrical system is more important than risking ruining the ignition trying to start it with a crippled electrical system. After the charging system is repaired would be a good time to worry about the ignition.

[Killer2600]

It will work fine spliced in right up buy the coils on either orange white wire. That will insure the ignition has the same voltage as coil voltage. Those wires are soldered to the same feed from the kill switch about two inches forward of where it comes out of the bundle. Fixing the electrical system is more important than risking ruining the ignition trying to start it with a crippled electrical system. After the charging system is repaired would be a good time to worry about the ignition.

Well there-in lies the problem, you can't fix the charging system when the ignition isn't working.

[OldVet66]

What is the voltage at the coils when you hit the start button. If it is reduced enough, it will not fire with a Dyna-S. When I had a problem with my charging system (boiling my battery), I believe somewhere near 11v, it would not start. Depending on the shape of your battery, wiring connections and draw from the starter motor, you might never get enough. Replace the stator. Electrosport stators are good, but their regulator is no better than the original regulator, and it sounds like your battery is suspect. If it doesn't work after you fix it, then you will know that it is something to do with the Dyna-S. My system fried the stator from too much voltage, I installed the Compufire regulator. The stator lasted another year before it gave up, replaced the stator, and the Dyna-S survived it all and is still working like a champ.

[Homie]

I'm guessing you had to install the Dynatek rotor on the mechanical advance? Make sure you have that installed correctly. If it is installed 180 degrees reversed than the left module will be firing the wrong cylinders (2&3 instead of 1&4 think).

This is easy to get wrong (I've done it myself) but fortunately easy to check and fix if installed wrong. With the the timing mark lined up on "1-4 F", the "trigger" lobe(magnet) should be pointing to the LEFT.

[MAC10]

Voltage across the battery terminals , just off the charger, was 13.6, dropping after 30 seconds to 11.3 with headlight on, 11.8 with it off. The bike cranks at the higher voltage, but wont crank at 11.8. I need a new battery.

Regulator failed the stator papers test. When I removed it the red wire connection was corroded, with signs of overheating. That may have done it.

So, new battery, new stator, and new regulator. Woo hoo!

Will a Compufire regulator work better than my last 2 regulators and protect the system better? By now, is there a fool proof way to rebuild the system so it will last? The original charging system lasted for 12 years of use, and the replacement lasted six years. Is this a normal experience for a 78 GS1000?

I really need this bike to be reliable, and not need replacing every few years. I can do annual maintenance to make sure things are clean and low resistance, but still. I hate wondering about reliability, or getting stranded beside the road. I hate it when stuff starts getting unreliable after only 35 years.

[OldVet66]

In regard to the Compufire, absolutely. Maybe look into a Rick's stator, and you would have a rock solid charging system. Keep in mind with your bike, that trying to start it with low voltages really spikes the current draw. Some BMW's are known to weld the solenoid contacts trying to start them with a low battery. I think we had one GS do it recently. I would go through your grounds and larger wires, and brighten up all the connections. I use SS star washers on both sides of grounds and ring terminals so they dig in and make a better contact. I would also check the starter for signs of excess heat indicating a high current draw. I used a #4 AWG wire from my battery negative to the motor, probably overkill, but it won't hurt either. The GS and equivalent R/R's were junk. The Compufire is just starting it's time test, but I have no doubt it will outlast the bike.

[MAC10]

Thanks Oldvet, and everyone else, for the good advice.

I decided on a Ricks stator, and a compufire regulator, as well as a general scrub and polish of connections, and lots of testing. I like the star washer idea to get stronger bite.

I ordered a new battery today. I will track how the compufire does, and report it here. Should be riding in a week or so depending on the mail