Ignition breaks up after warm up R/R?

[Nessism]

Ok, I only have 5 wires running to the right handle bar. Starter switch, cut off, and brake light. Here is the diagram. please show me where it connects.

First of all the wire runs to the LH hand control, not the right.

Please trace your stator wires. The W/G goes to the Lighting Switch (LH hand control), then it goes back to the R/R (W/R). The actual wiring doesn't look like the diagram either: the W/R goes to the front of the bike and plugs into a white plastic shell connector, when the wire comes out the mating connector there is a loop of W/R wire and then it comes straight back to the R/R. All this extra wire and connectors cause resistance which burns up the harness and melts the connectors (taking the other wires with them).

[hitman46mod]

Well that makes more sense. So I just chop the W/G and splice to the W/R going to the R/R. Why the hell did they run the connection to the handle bars?Thanks Nessism for correcting me.

[Nessism]

Well that makes more sense. So I just chop the W/G and splice to the W/R going to the R/R. Why the hell did they run the connection to the handle bars?Thanks Nessism for correcting me.

Take your stator wires and cut off the bullet connectors, then find your R/R feed wires and do the same. Then twist and solder the wires directly to one another. Make sure your R/R ground goes directly to a solid frame point, not to the battery box or airbox. Last thing is to make sure your power output from the R/R doesn't have excessive resistance on the way to the fusebox and then battery. Please use this link to read Pos's updated Stator papers check for circuit resistance...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...dd-n-ends.html

On my bike there was a lot of resistance in the fuse box terminals. I had to remove the terminals from the harness connectors and clean them before the charging system worked correctly.

Good luck and keep going...

[hitman46mod]

After some further testing. I found that I have a bad spark plug. I swapped the left for the right, and the problem followed the plug..... So, now that I know what the problem is. Time to go down to the local bike shop and have Tony get me some new ones. But I got a lot of useful rewiring info I will take care of today. Thanks guys for all the help.

[Steve]

So I just chop the W/G and splice to the W/R going to the R/R. Why the hell did they run the connection to the handle bars?

No need to "chop" any wires. If you look at your stator wires (probably under the airbox), you will see some connectors in them. Find the connector in the white/green wire, unplug it. Find where the white/red wire comes back from the harness to the R/R, unplug that. Now plug the white/green wire from the stator directly to the white/red wire from the R/R. No "hacking" necessary.

Time to go down to the local bike shop and have Tony get me some new ones.

Do you have an Auto Zone or other parts place closer than your local bike shop? Check the prices for the plugs at the bike shop, new plugs are about $2 each at the auto parts store. And, that is for the preferred NGK B8ES.

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[hitman46mod]

No need to "chop" any wires. If you look at your stator wires (probably under the airbox), you will see some connectors in them. Find the connector in the white/green wire, unplug it. Find where the white/red wire comes back from the harness to the R/R, unplug that. Now plug the white/green wire from the stator directly to the white/red wire from the R/R. No "hacking" necessary.
Thanks for the info!.


Do you have an Auto Zone or other parts place closer than your local bike shop? Check the prices for the plugs at the bike shop, new plugs are about $2 each at the auto parts store. And, that is for the preferred NGK B8ES.

.

I just got them at the Suzuki dealer. $4.63 with tax And that was the problem, bike is running great!