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rectifier/regulator problem?

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    rectifier/regulator problem?

    so ive been busy rewiring my '77 gs550 to relocate my electronics under my new seat cowl. in doing so, i burned part of the harness and had to bring it back up to par. after it was all patched up a second time i hit the ignition and all my lights/starter motor/coils were all getting power. i went to the gas station to buy some fresh fuel to try and fire her up for the first time since march. after the tank was full i tried to turn on the bike, but watched my neutral and oil pan light dim until they turned off. i checked my fuse and found it had blown, so i replaced it. as soon as i tried to turn it on again it blew. now this electrical system had been working for over a week as i wired all the lights, and i took caution as to make sure all connections would not cause another problem to happen. could my problem be coming from a bad rectifier or regulator? is there any way to test to find out what the source of my problem is for sure? i have a multimeter but now face the problem of no power running through the bike.

    any help is appreciated,
    nikolai.

    #2
    Sorry to say but you have a short.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Need to start at the beginning and test each circuit. Will be easier to start with those that you've repaired.

      I know someone who thought they always had it right when it was reassembled . They know better now .

      Go back and check your work as a starting place.

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        #4
        The nice thing about tracking a dead short like you are describing is that you do not need to have power to the bike. Just use your multimeter to find ~0 Ohms or use the buzzer to indicate no resistance.
        You'll get there, it just takes a bit of time to recover from an Oops like you encountered.

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