Well ?#%$^!, now that's out of the way it seems there's a problem. After the install all well, volts right on the money per Stator Papers at 2500 (13.5+) and 5000 (14.4) rpm. Got back from a ride hooked up the meter and now we have mid 12's to just over 13 volts. Checked connectors, battery satisfied with B.Tender, ran through the checks again and volts are ok. This time I hooked up a multimeter to the battery and rode around, readings per spec then after a couple of miles the volts drop again, Also the regulator is toasty to the touch. Could the Compufire be defective? Any ideas? Thanks
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Compufire
Well ?#%$^!, now that's out of the way it seems there's a problem. After the install all well, volts right on the money per Stator Papers at 2500 (13.5+) and 5000 (14.4) rpm. Got back from a ride hooked up the meter and now we have mid 12's to just over 13 volts. Checked connectors, battery satisfied with B.Tender, ran through the checks again and volts are ok. This time I hooked up a multimeter to the battery and rode around, readings per spec then after a couple of miles the volts drop again, Also the regulator is toasty to the touch. Could the Compufire be defective? Any ideas? Thanks1980 GS1000E
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Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostWell ?#%$^!, now that's out of the way it seems there's a problem. After the install all well, volts right on the money per Stator Papers at 2500 (13.5+) and 5000 (14.4) rpm. Got back from a ride hooked up the meter and now we have mid 12's to just over 13 volts. Checked connectors, battery satisfied with B.Tender, ran through the checks again and volts are ok. This time I hooked up a multimeter to the battery and rode around, readings per spec then after a couple of miles the volts drop again, Also the regulator is toasty to the touch. Could the Compufire be defective? Any ideas? Thanks
If it is real hot it is sounding like it might be defective or failed prematurely. What does the Quick Test say? (see link in my signature)
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Compufire
Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostWell ?#%$^!, now that's out of the way it seems there's a problem. After the install all well, volts right on the money per Stator Papers at 2500 (13.5+) and 5000 (14.4) rpm. Got back from a ride hooked up the meter and now we have mid 12's to just over 13 volts. Checked connectors, battery satisfied with B.Tender, ran through the checks again and volts are ok. This time I hooked up a multimeter to the battery and rode around, readings per spec then after a couple of miles the volts drop again, Also the regulator is toasty to the touch. Could the Compufire be defective? Any ideas? Thanks1980 GS1000E
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Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostIt seems the problem continues, stator checks out, battery voltage fine, checked connections all crimped and soldered, and ran all tests again. When running up to a couple of miles distance voltage readings easily in spec, then it drops back down about 1.5 -2 volts. Is this normal in a compufire? If the batteries satisfied should it continue to read 13.5 at 2500 rpm and 14.8- at 5000 rpm or the 12.7 I'm getting? At this point I'm going to return the Compufire as defective and try a new one. Thanks for all your suggestions.
It is possible everything is fine, measurve teh voltages in seach step and report back
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostWithout know what the results of the Quick test it is hard to determine if the bike is charging.
It is possible everything is fine, measurve teh voltages in seach step and report back1980 GS1000E
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Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostDid the quick test and voltages were right in the money, took it out on the street and still ok. Got home shut down watched the dmm ( hooked to the battery) started it up and the volts were down a full volt. Back out on the road volts back to spec. OK, interesting one thought how hot does that r/r supposed to get to the touch? Cool, warmish, warm, or hot like this one? After the Stator Papers tests the stator checks fine, etc. I believe this one is kaput and back it goes. ?!?!
You should be able to hold your hand on the R/R and not hurt. Mien is generally not over 100 degF
If you are passing the quick test the R/R and stator are not the problem
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostThat is not a charging problem, more like a short or a bad battery. Of course I'm relying on your assessment of the results as you still have not posted them.
You should be able to hold your hand on the R/R and not hurt. Mien is generally not over 100 degF
If you are passing the quick test the R/R and stator are not the problem
1 key off- 12.8
2 key on- 12.1
3 at idle- 13.3 when the issue arose this this dropped to 12.4
4 at 2500- 14.1 " " " " " " " " 12.8
5 at 5000- 14.4 " " " " " " " " 13.1
6 key off- 13.1
overnight- 12.8
The r/r was warmer than the old Honda unit that was on it. After the low readings the engine was shut off and after restart the readings went back up. Have returned the r/r and ordered a new one.1980 GS1000E
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Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostAlrighty here's some results and thanks for the help.
1 key off- 12.8
2 key on- 12.1
3 at idle- 13.3 when the issue arose this this dropped to 12.4
4 at 2500- 14.1 " " " " " " " " 12.8
5 at 5000- 14.4 " " " " " " " " 13.1
6 key off- 13.1
overnight- 12.8
The r/r was warmer than the old Honda unit that was on it. After the low readings the engine was shut off and after restart the readings went back up. Have returned the r/r and ordered a new one.
I'm assuming the voltage started to drop when you held the RPM in steps 4 and 5. That is not right as you have correctly determined. The system is clearly charging, and the battery seems fine with the drop between steps 1 and 2.
If they will swap out the R/R for you then that will be cheaper and less hassle that changing the stator. It could still be the stator though, however the fact that it is hotter than the Honda does suggest a R/R defect though. Good Job.
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostI'm assuming the voltage started to drop when you held the RPM in steps 4 and 5. That is not right as you have correctly determined. The system is clearly charging, and the battery seems fine with the drop between steps 1 and 2.
If they will swap out the R/R for you then that will be cheaper and less hassle that changing the stator. It could still be the stator though, however the fact that it is hotter than the Honda does suggest a R/R defect though. Good Job.
Quick Test Steps 1-12.9v, 2-12.1v, 3-13.2v, 4-14.3v, 5-14.3v, and 6-13.0 so it will do fine until a test ride tomorrow. Thanks posplayr and all others.1980 GS1000E
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Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostThe new Compufire regulator arrived and I installed it today. Bought off of the internet the male terminals for the CF connector. Results so far no test ride ( FL thunderstorms ) but in the garage are:
Quick Test Steps 1-12.9v, 2-12.1v, 3-13.2v, 4-14.3v, 5-14.3v, and 6-13.0 so it will do fine until a test ride tomorrow. Thanks posplayr and all others.
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Compufire update
Finally got to try a ride and found voltages on the nose, then the same drop in juice. Found when the headlight is on the voltage drops when off they're perfect again. The headlight has an isolated, relayed, and switched circuit. Got some new components from Eager Beaver so I'll redo that and test again. Sheesh stay tuned.1980 GS1000E
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Compufire latest episode
Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostFinally got to try a ride and found voltages on the nose, then the same drop in juice. Found when the headlight is on the voltage drops when off they're perfect again. The headlight has an isolated, relayed, and switched circuit. Got some new components from Eager Beaver so I'll redo that and test again. Sheesh stay tuned.1980 GS1000E
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Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostWell completely isolated the headlight circuit with the EB relays and new harness good there. But the voltage issue remains. Upon following the quick test all well in spec for a short ride around the neighborhood then we're back to the previously mentioned voltage loss. It shows about 12.8 to 13.2 between 2500 to 5000 rpm and the regulator still is real warm to touch, no way to measure this. Also the inline main fuse 15a holder gets hot very similar feel as the r/r, passing a lot of current there? he fuse does not blow. Open to further suggestions, please. Thanks.
Are you still getting the same results as you mentioned before?
Alrighty here's some results and thanks for the help.
1 key off- 12.8
2 key on- 12.1
3 at idle- 13.3 when the issue arose this this dropped to 12.4
4 at 2500- 14.1 " " " " " " " " 12.8
5 at 5000- 14.4 " " " " " " " " 13.1
6 key off- 13.1
overnight- 12.8
The r/r was warmer than the old Honda unit that was on it. After the low readings the engine was shut off and after restart the readings went back up. Have returned the r/r and ordered a new one.
If so, you are probably looking at a new stator. It is sounding like the stator is changing as it heats up due to opens or shorts in the insulation.
The only other thing is to measure the voltage drops as in the revised stator pages. If they are high then fix those connectors. If they are low then likely the stator.
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