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    #31
    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    13.2V is too low at 5000 rpm

    Are you still getting the same results as you mentioned before?




    If so, you are probably looking at a new stator. It is sounding like the stator is changing as it heats up due to opens or shorts in the insulation.

    The only other thing is to measure the voltage drops as in the revised stator pages. If they are high then fix those connectors. If they are low then likely the stator.
    Voltage readings are in spec until it's been run around the block, then back to a maximum of 13.3 volts period. Have got the battery on charge and will check the voltage drops. Did a test again on the stator and resistance and ground check good and 5k voltages at 76 with no load as in wires disconnected. The stator is at least 20 years old. Would a bad stator produce the hot regulator etc that I have here? Checked in the old Q&A section and discovered where a faulty stator can produce low voltage and high current, so new Ricks ordered.
    Last edited by mustangflyr; 09-02-2012, 09:50 PM. Reason: new info
    1980 GS1000E

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      #32
      Originally posted by mustangflyr View Post
      Voltage readings are in spec until it's been run around the block, then back to a maximum of 13.3 volts period. Have got the battery on charge and will check the voltage drops. Did a test again on the stator and resistance and ground check good and 5k voltages at 76 with no load as in wires disconnected. The stator is at least 20 years old. Would a bad stator produce the hot regulator etc that I have here?

      Unloaded stator tests are very poor as they do not stress the stator causing the insulation breakdown. Given two "bad" Compufires in a row that it was never the CF and more like the stator. The stators can fail in several ways so it is not worth theorizing at this point you have no other option than to remove it if your connection drops are less than 0.25V at 5000 RPM.

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        #33
        Compufire

        Well the Rick's stator arrived today and was installed, no problem install and changed back to the original CF regulator. Thus far initial testing reveals voltages are easily within spec but will let the battery sit overnight off the Tender, clean and reinstall the counter shaft cover etc then test ride it. So no long term reliable data yet but so far connections are cool and the CF just slightly warm. next episode to follow.
        1980 GS1000E

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          #34
          Compufire/rick's

          Originally posted by mustangflyr View Post
          Well the Rick's stator arrived today and was installed, no problem install and changed back to the original CF regulator. Thus far initial testing reveals voltages are easily within spec but will let the battery sit overnight off the Tender, clean and reinstall the counter shaft cover etc then test ride it. So no long term reliable data yet but so far connections are cool and the CF just slightly warm. next episode to follow.

          Well finally got parts installed including a digital voltmeter on the handlebar pad and added an Eastern Beaver inline fuse holder for the main power supply. Out for a ride and the voltages are at- off 12.8-9, idle 13.6-8, 2500 rpm 14.3-5, 5000 rpm 14.3-5 and 13.1 off again. Next to get a infrared thermometer and check temps on the r/r and stator case etc.
          1980 GS1000E

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            #35
            You are nothing if not thorough.

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              #36
              Cf

              Also found when I plugged in the Battery Tender it went the green light in about one- two minutes instead of the usual 20-30 minutes, never did that before. Things are looking up.
              1980 GS1000E

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                #37
                Originally posted by mustangflyr View Post
                Well finally got parts installed including a digital voltmeter on the handlebar pad and added an Eastern Beaver inline fuse holder for the main power supply. Out for a ride and the voltages are at- off 12.8-9, idle 13.6-8, 2500 rpm 14.3-5, 5000 rpm 14.3-5 and 13.1 off again. Next to get a infrared thermometer and check temps on the r/r and stator case etc.
                That sounds very good. Now that you have complete the Phase A tests of the stator pages to make sure your connections are good.

                Last edited by posplayr; 10-06-2012, 01:31 PM.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View Post
                  You are nothing if not thorough.
                  Thank you, I figure getting my problem solved will help save someone else the time and hassle and get them and myself back on the road.
                  1980 GS1000E

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                    That sounds very good. Now that you have complete the Phase A tests of the stator pages to make sure your connections are good.

                    http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970...2-10-43-am-55k
                    I'm going to triple check them even they're pretty much all new now. And I found it interesting that the no load stator test didn't reveal the defective stator. The stator appeared to have been used as a barbeque grill, nice and crunchy looking. Again thanks for the help.
                    1980 GS1000E

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by mustangflyr View Post
                      I'm going to triple check them even they're pretty much all new now. And I found it interesting that the no load stator test didn't reveal the defective stator. The stator appeared to have been used as a barbeque grill, nice and crunchy looking. Again thanks for the help.
                      No Load stator tests have been debated at length.



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                        #41
                        Cf

                        Went for a 30 mile test ride today with the voltmeter on board and the readings were as if I had cut and pasted the figures off the quick test. A question though, the temp of the CF it's self would how many degrees? I bought an infrared thermometer today and ran the bike around the area and it showed as high as 120 degrees. In other words what should I expect?
                        1980 GS1000E

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by mustangflyr View Post
                          Went for a 30 mile test ride today with the voltmeter on board and the readings were as if I had cut and pasted the figures off the quick test. A question though, the temp of the CF it's self would how many degrees? I bought an infrared thermometer today and ran the bike around the area and it showed as high as 120 degrees. In other words what should I expect?
                          Should not be so hot that you can't hold your hand on it. 120F is getting close to the limit.

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                            #43
                            Wanted to thank Mustangflyr for this thread... I'm looking at going through the same tests here this week, and this has been most helpful.

                            Seems the Rick's Stator and the CF R/R are the recommended replacement parts??

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Cf

                              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                              Should not be so hot that you can't hold your hand on it. 120F is getting close to the limit.
                              Yes it's a little toasty for hand holding, so what would be an acceptable temp range for the unit and if mine runs too warm what could cause this?
                              1980 GS1000E

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by mustangflyr View Post
                                Yes it's a little toasty for hand holding, so what would be an acceptable temp range for the unit and if mine runs too warm what could cause this?
                                Have you checked your Revised Phase A stator tests? This insures the connections are good.

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