spark plugs - are they telling me anything ?

[GateKeeper]

I'll walk you through it, don't worry.

Thanks...

How many times last night did I allude to extra fuel sneaking in when it was not needed?

Eric

but it's an air screw, how does that affect fuel ?

but if it's getting too much fuel, how does that cause it to stall out ?

ahhh never mind, I guess too much fuel not enough air, makes for a bad combination, somehow or another



so I will button everything back up, and post back here once carbs are back in...


Cheers

[koolaid_kid]

Your Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) needs to be correct for all the various modes. I cheat and use a wideband (the scientific method) but GSR members get close enough using manual methods, which sees to be "good enough".

[7981GS]

GK, we all LOVE what you have done with that bike and really want to hear of it running around all over the place.

Fingers crossed.

Eric

[shwaz]

still wanna sell that bike?

GOOD LUCK my man, hope this nails it. someday soon i'm going to actually understand how everything in the carburetor works together. sounds like you're getting some great lessons.

[koolaid_kid]

Your synch is adjusted using the screw/lock nut on your throttle bar, it has nothing to do with what we are going to do. That will be fine, thanks for the offer spyug.

[BigD_83]

Thanks...

but it's an air screw, how does that affect fuel ?

Cheers

Aah,

but it is NOT an air screw, at least not like an air pilot. It is an air/fuel mix screw. By adjusting it out, you are dumping a higher volume of FUEL into the combustion chamber.

[GateKeeper]

Your Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) needs to be correct for all the various modes. I cheat and use a wideband (the scientific method) but GSR members get close enough using manual methods, which sees to be "good enough".

once I have them back in, I will await your instructions on how to proceed

GK, we all LOVE what you have done with that bike and really want to hear of it running around all over the place.

Fingers crossed.

Eric

Thanks,,,,it was running around, until it started dying out on me....

still wanna sell that bike?

GOOD LUCK my man, hope this nails it. someday soon i'm going to actually understand how everything in the carburetor works together. sounds like you're getting some great lessons.

not out of the woods yet...

it still might get a for sale sign.....

lessons are always a good thing, one can never learn too much....

.

[spyug]

but it's an air screw, how does that affect fuel ?

but if it's getting too much fuel, how does that cause it to stall out ?

I wondering about this too. Too much fuel is going to cause it to idle higher anyway not die off. At certain throttle positions it could cause it to bog until the excess clears but as the idle dies, you can blip it and it picks up again. That's telling me it needs more gas or possibly less air. That's what made me think it was not jetted sufficiently to compensate for the freer flowing pipe.

Could you make it clearer for us please.

Cheers,
spyug

[koolaid_kid]

I wondering about this too. Too much fuel is going to cause it to idle higher anyway not die off. At certain throttle positions it could cause it to bog until the excess clears but as the idle dies, you can blip it and it picks up again. That's telling me it needs more gas or possibly less air. That's what made me think it was not jetted sufficiently to compensate for the freer flowing pipe.

Could you make it clearer for us please.

Cheers,
spyug

Actually, you have it backwards, spyug. Think about what the engine does when there is an air leak. It idles higher, not lower. Most likely 2.5 is too rich, which is why I wanted to know about the pilot jets. They have been changed to a larger jet, which I found unusual for just a pipe. Usually with just a pipe you just richen the circuit with the screw, not a jet. But we can work with these, NP.

[koolaid_kid]

Aah,

but it is NOT an air screw, at least not like an air pilot. It is an air/fuel mix screw. By adjusting it out, you are dumping a higher volume of FUEL into the combustion chamber.

Very correct. By dumping more fuel, the AFR changes. At idle, you want it to run leaner than when you are at WOT (wide open throttle). That is why you adjust each circuit (main, needle, air/fuel mixture screw) individually.

[7981GS]

Actually, you have it backwards, spyug. Think about what the engine does when there is an air leak. It idles higher, not lower. Most likely 2.5 is too rich, which is why I wanted to know about the pilot jets.
They have been changed to a larger jet, which I found unusual for just a pipe. Usually with just a pipe you just richen the circuit with the screw, not a jet. But we can work with these, NP.

Even with the addition of pod filters and a pipe, I have never had to increase the pilot jet size.
It is way too rich no doubt.

Eric

[koolaid_kid]

On a stock engine, I agree for the most part. One has to remember, every single engine is different. The only way to tell if you need to go up is by testing. Fortunately, he has a good 1.5 turns of adjustment we can work with.
My GPZ is highly modified so I did have to go up, but it is out of the ordinary.

[koolaid_kid]

BTW, we can get you "close enough" to ride, even if it comes to pass that you really should move down a size.

[GateKeeper]

Well I have close enough, I need better, my close enough was allowing me to ride, no issues there, just at times more often than not, idle would not stay once I got to a stop sign or lights, and I had to keep on blipping the throttle, feathering it to keep the bike running and thus not allowing it to stall

starting off, running around etc had no issue, even starting first thing, choke on, clutch in, press start button one or 2 cranks and she would fire right up, play with choke a bit, get jacket buttoned up, helmet on, gloves on, and I could almost take choke right off, and go....

so I don't know, but will follow your guys lead and do as you say, and lets see if it helps out....

.

[koolaid_kid]

Dying at lights is unsafe IMHO, so that is not close enough to ride.
What I am speaking of is that we may have to go all the way down to 1 turn out, which I personally do not like. But it will not die at lights and it will be rideable. If we have to go down that far, and we may, I would suggest getting some 37.5 jets and putting it back into the 2-3 turns out range.