spark plugs - are they telling me anything ?

[shwaz]

pilot jets can't cost too much?
surely cheaper than a set of pods...

seems like a good option, anyway. i am just at the tip of learning / understanding about carbs, but if your pilot jets are too large and let in too much gas i think that would make sense that it dies when idling - pilot system controls idle, too much gas, not enough burnt, engine konks out. you got around it by keeping revs high and bypassing the pilot system.

someone call me out on it if i'm making this up

[spyug]

pilot jets can't cost too much?

Its not the cost, its finding them locally. With this kind of stuff its always good to be able to check them against the originals. GK has had a bit of bad luck ordering stuff and not getting the right thing. Plus its a time thing. Good weather is running out quickly now.

As to your suggestion about the larger pilot jets letting in too much gas and konking out the engine, that might be questionable. Firstly the jets are just one size up from stock so not that much of an increase and secondly what does an enricher (choke) circuit do but pour in more gas. That causes the engine to race not die, does it not?

I, for one, am not convinced its drowning on gas. It doesn't make sense to me. something else is going on but what I don't know.

However, as it seems like smaller pilot jets are now the remedy of choice then lets find him some.

Cheers,
Spyug

PS Apologies to KK, I can't seem to stay out of this afterall.

[BigD_83]

Just a thought on that:

The way I understand the "Choke" circuit is that it adds a larger volume of the premixed fuel to the combustion chamber, in a proper ratio of A/F.

A larger pilot just feeds more fuel, resulting in a larger volume fraction of fuel. Changing to a larger pilot jet without also increasing the amount of air might drown it out at low rpms...

Carb gurus, is my logic correct?

[GateKeeper]

One thing I will do right now, is check for air leaks, just to make sure I have not damaged the boots or anything else and then take the next step.

worse case is as said, getting the jets, and getting the right ones and fast, riding season is fast approaching the end for us here, so I really don't want to cut it even shorter, right now no jets are locally available, so I would have to order, and if the right ones show up it will be about a week.

anyways off to get some quick start and test for air leaks...

Thanks

[BigD_83]

Don't forget to check out SCI. I've recommended them so many times now you'd think I had a vested interest in them.

[mrbill5491]

After reading this thread, I went and checked all my carb parts, even ordered some new float needles and carb boot clamps, already have new carb boots and everything else. I even weighed the floats to make sure they were all the same. Checked the slides as well and anything rubber. K did I miss anything...

[GateKeeper]

So I did the air leak testing today.....and happy to report no Leaks, bike ran the same even after spraying the quick start all around the carbs, boots, air box etc.... no change at all.....

Glad to find that at least....

how ever I think I might have an issue with my coils














This all seems with in spec......

but the voltage at the wires is 1 volt and a bit lower than at the battery....

see next post

[GateKeeper]

here is where I think the issue is at the moment...













this is the battery voltage








time for the coil relay mod.....even though I had gone through the entire harness, cleaned each and every connection, di-electric grease to all, there is still a drop in the voltage....bummer....

.

[GateKeeper]

So just before I go and do this Coil Relay Mod......is there a way to do it but not really do it...

Can I rig it somehow to get battery power to the coils directly, can I just run a lead from the positive terminal from the battery over to the orange/white wires that are for the coils ? or will this give off too much voltage, or cause a short, or really do nothing, and I really have to do the coil relay mod to get what is needed....

I ask this because I didn't want to go through the whole process of cutting, splicing, and to only find out it didn't help one bit....

Any thoughts....

Thanks

[spyug]

Do the mod and be done with it. Quit procrastinating. You need the extra voltage wether it fixes the idle or not. The mod is the simplest way of wiring things and not creating more headaches for yourself.

One headache at a time please.

spyug

[GateKeeper]

so what am I looking for, or what am I doing, I pulled the tape off, and this is what I have, am I anywhere close, I just don't know what the heck I am doing....


the 4 wires hanging are/were on the coils




stripped off some of the tape to expose the rest of the wires






this end is where the fuse box is and RR and the rest of the connections





so am I close to anything, boy do I hate electrical stuff.....

[shwaz]

ditto that boyo. i have been avoiding teh coil relay mod as well cause i dont understand it. someday i will, and then i'll tackle it. good luck to you - i'm sure you'll get the help you need here.

[GateKeeper]

Well if I don't get it here,,,,I have Spyug coming to assist, I just have to give him a shout, and since he has already done this a few times it will be a snap, but I really wanted to try it on my own, but as I say always have a backup plan.....LOL

I will try to document it some more and take some more pictures as we go along....

.

[spyug]

You're in the right neighbour hood. Follow those orange whites from the coils down to the splice on the orange white that runs from the start button back to the fuse block. You will snip those off. Tie them together and put on a female spade. that will go to 74 on the relay. Next splice a fresh line into that orange white with a female spade on the other end that will go to 86 on the relay. That is the trigger. then make another one to splice into the black/white for your ground or alternatively put a ring connector on one end and attach it to any convenient frame bolt or screw. that is your ground at 85 on the relay. then you can re-wrap your harness ( or maybe wait until you test it). Put the inline fuse close to the battery and connect it with a ring connector to the positive pole. wire on a bit of extra wire to get to the relay and with a connector on the end attach it to 30. Test bike. button up and go riding.

If that doesn't work then its 12 guage at the range time

good luck,
spyug

[GateKeeper]

Sounds good....

beer and lunch at my place, come on over, and we can get it done, fast....honestly...

I will continue to strip.....the tape off the harness that is....towards the fuse box

.