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Best way to clean the kill switch?

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    Best way to clean the kill switch?

    After cleaning the fuse block and the connectors all the way down to the kill switch, I find I am losing 1.25+volts at the switch.

    It is , of course, a rocker switch that is pressed fit together so its impossible to get at the components or clean the contacts with a wire wheel or brush, so its down to dunking in a liquid solution.

    I've had it soaking for 3 hours in CLR ( a caustic cleaner) and while the metal parts of the frame are showing definite cleaning, I haven't been able to pick up my lost voltage.

    Can anyone advise any better liquid solution? Failing that, has anyone had any success dissassembling the switch and if so can you provide details of how it may be reassembled.

    I checked the fiches for an OEM replacement but there doesn't seem to be anything available, there is simply no listing for it so I'm stuck with trying to sort this one. I could, of course, permanently jump the switch but I'm not keen on that at all.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It seems everytime I get something figured out something else jumps up to bite me in the ass, I'm getting real tired of it let me tell you.

    Cheers all and thanks in advance.

    Spyug

    #2
    Gosh Spyug I have had the switch out before but donot think it can be disassembled.

    Ill go check

    brb

    Comment


      #3
      Ok SO



      SO

      The switch cannot be taken apart
      This is a good thing

      I think these may "go bad" because the fibre board that the circuit is on shrinks thereby negating the effect of the springs in forcing tight contact.

      SOme of the guys swear by de-oxit. A fresh blast of cleaner followed by a few hundred cyclings of the switch may clean it. Thing is these are rarely used and that explanins a lot.

      Comment


        #4
        Why not just find another switchgear assembly?

        Eric

        Comment


          #5
          Why not just find another switchgear assembly?
          Well I have a spare but its as bad if not worse than this one. Voltage loss was close to 2 volts. My preference would be to go for a factory replacement but they don't seem to be available.

          I'm thinking that anything other than a factory fresh stocker is going to be just as bad.

          The bike has been starting and running so this loss of voltage isn't a killer but likely is contributing to the crappy running. I can over come it somewhat by doing a coil relay mod to get full voltage at the coils and if worse comes to worst I guess I can jump the kill switch but i'd much rather sort this.

          I think, if I am super careful, I can dissassemble the switch for a mechanical cleaning and I think I can reassemble using solder or epoxy putty to secure the posts. I'm just hoping I can get a cleaner to do the job and save me all this effort.

          thanks for the suggestions.
          Spyug

          Comment


            #6
            I simply spray a good penetrating oil into the switchgear on all of my bikes about twice a year and work the switches to rub it in as it were.
            It has been working for me for over 30 years.

            Perhaps the soak it in vinegar deal would work?

            Eric

            Comment


              #7
              Clean the handlebar.....
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Spyug you could remove the switch and work some fine metal polish into the contacts and give it some mad clicking

                Spray it clean with WD40 er whatever

                My bike is working like a top BTW

                Comment


                  #9
                  Well after 6 hours of dunking, I didn't get anywhere so I decided to put it all back together and do the coil relay modification instead. That will get the coil voltage to where I need it.

                  I'm going to put this on the back burner until winter when I have time to fiddle, for now I just want to get saddle time.

                  As I have the o-rings now I'll be rebuilding the carbs tomorrow or the next day with hopes of getting her rideable come the weekend.

                  Enough farting and fiddling already!

                  Thanks for all the help guys.
                  Spyug

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have the right switch assembly that GS Scott sent me if you want it. I am pretty sure it's from your year 550
                    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                    1981 GS550T - My First
                    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I have the right switch assembly that GS Scott sent me if you want it
                      Thanks but I'll bet its the same as the two I have here. I'm pretty certain I can pull it apart and give it a proper cleaning but as I mentioned, I'll hold off until winter.

                      With riding time running out on me, I'm going to do the coil relay mod to sort out the low voltage at the coils to get it back on its tires, so to speak.

                      Thanks for the offer.
                      Spyug

                      Comment

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