Indicators/lights

[angus]

Working on my 82 gs 850 gl,the indicators on left hand side working fine when I switch to right side headlight flashes as well as lights on clocks.Could it be a bad earth?.Any help weould be great I have the wiring diagram.Conan

[Steve]

I think you are on the right track, suspecting your earth connections.

Now your challenge, should you decide to accept it, is to find where it's bad.




This message will self-destruct in five seconds.




four




three




two


...


.

[angus]

I`ll accept the challenge and just found out no power to the coils as well will be big challenge as I`ve just bought the bike.It was running fine but took off exhaust to have her welded and on re-fitting it bike wouldn`t start,discovered no spark and after checking discovered no pwer to coils.Conan

[angus]

If the igniter is faulty would this stop power going to the coils.Trying to figure out why I`ve no spark and no power to coils.Engine stop/start switch/button working fine.Had bike running when I bought her and left her lying for about 1 month waiting on parts.Conan

[koolaid_kid]

When you say no power to the coils, are you speaking of the 12V on the Orange/White wires?

[angus]

Getting 9.35v from orange/white wire,1.3v from the plain white wire this coil fires outside 2 cylinders.Getting 9.41v from orange/white and black/yellow wires which fires inner 2 cylinders.The green wire and the blue wire comming from alternator to igniter came off the igniter connection and I pushed them back on(looked like they snapped off) should these come off at all could this be the problem.Conan

[angus]

Have the indicators working bad earth and is sorted.Now for the spark problem.Conan

[Redman]

Getting 9.35v from orange/white wire,1.3v from the plain white wire this coil fires outside 2 cylinders.Getting 9.41v from orange/white and black/yellow wires which fires inner 2 cylinders.The green wire and the blue wire comming from alternator to igniter came off the igniter connection and I pushed them back on(looked like they snapped off) should these come off at all could this be the problem.Conan

Org/Wht wire is power to coils (same wire that powers the ignitor) and comes straight from ignition fuse (well, thru kill swtich) and should be pretty much the same voltage as battery voltage. You said you measured 9 point something there at the coils. TGhat right there is your problem. Coils and ignitor need more voltage than that.

But, is your battery voltage at 9 point something....? That is a problem that neeeds to be addressed.
(you have a battery charger?)

Or.. is your battery voltage good, and are loosing it somewhere along the way.


.

[angus]

Battery voltage is 12.8 fully charged and drops to around 12.3 when left in bike.Kill switch was off a katana and rewired to match original off the 850 gl and everything is working on it.Just because everything works could there still be a problem at switch.Should the 2 wires the green and the blue come off the igniter.Also the haynes manual says there should also be a yellow wire comming from alternator with the blue and green wires is this right none comming from mine and when bike was running she was not charging.Conan

[Redman]

Battery voltage is 12.8 fully charged and drops to around 12.3 when left in bike.Kill switch was off a katana and rewired to match original off the 850 gl and everything is working on it.Just because everything works could there still be a problem at switch.Should the 2 wires the green and the blue come off the igniter.Also the haynes manual says there should also be a yellow wire comming from alternator with the blue and green wires is this right none comming from mine and when bike was running she was not charging.Conan

Sticking with one problem at a time; the 9.3 at coils org/wht wire. If battery voltage is 12 point something, then should have about 12 point something at the coils org/wht wire also, if you dont then have a big volt drop somewhere along the line. So , lets go back and track it.
From batt+ to to main fuse. Meausre voltage at main fuse going to ignition swtich (the smaller red wire).
Main fuse to igition swtich and back to the three fuses (head, ignition, signal), the orange wire. Measure voltage on orange wire at fuse block.
Then from ignition fuse to kill swtitch to coil, org/wht wire, which is what you said is 9 point something volts. Oh, when you measured that it was that org/wht wire (one meter lead) to ground (otehr meter lead) that you measured right? not across the two leads of coils, right?

You have 9 point something at ignition fuse (org/wht)? and headlight fuse? and signal fuse?

If is not charging... was battery low when you measured the 9 point something at coils?
Or did you have battery charged and measured 12 point something at battery at a same time measured 9 point something at coils?


One comment about "wires from alternator".
I suspect you mean the stator (in left engine case). A stock one wil have 3 differetn color wires, but few are stock anymore. Most are aftermarket replacements and typically will have 3 yellow wires. Each of the three can be connected in any order.
If you mean the Regulator/REctifyer (on bottom or side of battery box) that will have 5 wires typically.

.

[angus]

Cheers will get stuck in tomorrow and try sort it out and let all know how I get on.Conan

[argonsagas]

Redman has given you some great answers.

Since you have voltage drop across the board, I would look back at the fuse box and see if that is where the problem lies. Voltage IN should be exactly the same as voltage OUT.

If it is not, you can count on finding corrosion on the contacts within the fuse box. It is fairly common, although invisible when the box is closed.

The box can usually be disassembled, the brass strips can be pulled, cleaned and polished, so they will be as good as new, then re-position them, close and re-install the box.

Or, just replace the fuse box with any other that will fit on your bike, solder the wire connections and away you go.

[angus]

Cheers for all the help turned out to be the 2 wires to the igniter got local auto electrican to solder them back and firing on all cylynders.The honda regulator/rectefier modifying mentioned in the forum,will any r/r from any honda do.I just got r/r from a honda 600cc it has 3 yellow for alternator the other 4 are 2 green and 2 red with white stripes.Has anybody tried 1 of these.Conan

[angus]

Charging System

Wired in honda regulator/rectifer(from honda ntv) and only getting 13.1 volts from battery reading.Had the r/r checked (diode test) all ok.Getting 85+ volts from generator.Put live from battery straight to live on r/r and readings jumped to 13.52.The white with green stripe from generator gong to loom and back to white with red stripe from original r/r what is the block it goes through?.Any other suggestions why she still not charging properly

[Redman]

Wired in honda regulator/rectifer(from honda ntv) and only getting 13.1 volts from battery reading.Had the r/r checked (diode test) all ok.Getting 85+ volts from generator.Put live from battery straight to live on r/r and readings jumped to 13.52.The white with green stripe from generator gong to loom and back to white with red stripe from original r/r what is the block it goes through?.Any other suggestions why she still not charging properly

Where did you connect the sense line? And what is volt reading at that point?

WHen you say "live", is that the scence line? or the positive R/R output?

.