R/R Replacement Project

[MAJikMARCer]

I just grabbed an FH014AA from a 2008 CBR. Which connectors did you end up with from Eastern Beaver?

So where can I get some pigtails or female terminal connectors that will fit the inbound R/R?

You want the 312 ones: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...arrel.html#312

I miss quoted the size I used earlier. I'll edit that for future reference. I also bought some of the 312 sheaths, but I ended up not using them and just used the shrink tube instead. It's a cleaner look IMO.

[MAJikMARCer]

FH014 as found on newer CBR1000RRs has a totally different pair of connectors. I'm sorry I can't help you with these types. I suggest NOT buying that type for an upgrade.

This quote is from Eastern Beaver and he's right to a degree. I'm sure you could salvage the connectors or even pay out the butt from Honda for new, but the .312 inch female spade connectors DO work. The fit was tight and secure. When you are sure you wouldn't be changing the connections again you could even silicone/resin the connectors on making them weather resistant, though I'm not convinced the factory connectors would be any better in that regard.

I don't regret the purchase, but it does make for a longer project because you have to wait for the connectors to be shipped from Japan instead of running to your local auto parts/hardware store.

[MisterCinders]

Not to mention explaining the PayPal charge for "EBEAVER" to the wife.

Thanks for the tip though. Just ordered them.

[MAJikMARCer]

Hey Marc, nice install, but I'm a little concerned with airflow, which will help remove heat from the heat sink fins of the RR, and I'm not sure it will get much there, do you have room to mount it under the battery box?

I'm not sure about under the battery box. I didnt think about that location (not sure why).

The logic I was using for the tail (aside from space) was that air could flow from under the rear-sides of the seat and flow out the back.



This unit isn't supposed to get very hot. Anecdotal information suggests that even after a long ride a person can put their hand safely on the unit.

I'll check the fitment under the battery box. I bought enough spare connectors to do this if needed.

[GS650E_81]

Nice thread. Subbed.

I'm sure this will be handy on my bike in the future.

[MisterCinders]

I tucked mine under the new electrics tray. You can catch a glimpse of it in this pic:

[d_sal]

This is a fantastic thread, thanks. My FH014AA (ebay - 2010 cbr 1000) is in the mail. Time to order some spade connectors.

[MAJikMARCer]

Hey Marc, nice install, but I'm a little concerned with airflow, which will help remove heat from the heat sink fins of the RR, and I'm not sure it will get much there, do you have room to mount it under the battery box?

Since I had the battery box out (new rubber grommets, paint, etc.) I measured the width. Front to back it's only 2 3/4 inches wide. The FH014 is about 3 1/2 inches wide.

Additional issues would be how to connect it. The battery sits pretty flush on the bottom so I'd have to do some interesting fasteners. If I had the skills I could maybe weld some nuts to the bottom to screw into.

The R/R would also likely be visible or even block the side cover from fitting properly. The visibility issue wouldn't bother me too much. That'd just mean it's getting a lot of air.

The other issue is the proximity to the chain. Currently I have no guard due to rear shocks that work, but were not designed for this bike.

I have lots of projects this winter, but I think the R/R is going to remain in the tail for now. That said, I keep seeing bikes with what looks like their R/R bolted up in the front of the bike, next to the horn on the down tubes (not sure about the terminology, sorry). I really like the look. Not sure it's something I'm going to tackle right now as I need to work on a lot of other more important things before spring, but it'd make a nice weekend project next summer.

[posplayr]

Wait...was this just a more polite way to say. "Use the search!"? heh Thanks. That helps. It doesn't necessarily hurt to USE the headlight loop, it's just more connections and thus more opportunity for connectivity issues in the future.

It is very often the source of melted connectors under the tank and is strongly discouraged practice. Other than that you should be fine leaving it in.

[MAJikMARCer]

It is very often the source of melted connectors under the tank and is strongly discouraged practice. Other than that you should be fine leaving it in.

Right and I ended up by-passing it, but it's still good to understand what the loop is all about for any other newbs who may read this thread.

I'm one of those guys who has to KNOW why something is done or not done. I'm not just going to accept an answer without knowing both sides, as best as possible.

[BigD_83]

Was I didn't realize just how large these FET units are, even though I had the numbers in front of me. I have a new FH020 on the way. Looks like I'm going to be scrounging a place to fit it as well.

Was the original on your 650E tucked UNDER the airbox?

[MAJikMARCer]

Was I didn't realize just how large these FET units are, even though I had the numbers in front of me. I have a new FH020 on the way. Looks like I'm going to be scrounging a place to fit it as well.

Was the original on your 650E tucked UNDER the airbox?

No it was attached to the side of the battery box. The height of the cooling fins made this location unusable. The width of the R/R is too much to put under the battery box as well.

It might be possible to move the ignitor box from under the air box and move IT under the battery box and move the R/R under the airbox, but I'd go with a acid-free battery if I did that. That's a lot more work than I'm interested in doing myself. And it seems that every model has it's electrical layout setup a bit different.

[BigD_83]

It might be possible to move the ignitor box from under the air box and move IT under the battery box and move the R/R under the airbox, but I'd go with a acid-free battery if I did that.

That is what I was thinking of doing. I have an AGM battery installed now. Given the corrosion on the battery box, acid leak is probably a very real hazard.

[MAJikMARCer]

That is was I was thinking of doing. I have an AGM battery installed now. Given the corrosion on the battery box, acid leak is probably a very real hazard.

My battery box looked like hell too. I just got it back from the powder coater. I really should get a dry-cell battery.