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  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by John Park View Post
    Not at all. In fact, I just picked up my new SH775 this morning. I have an 'as new' almost no mile original stator circa 1980 that I've installed in my refreshed 450 motor, and it will be interesting to see how the combo does in July, which is stator torching [and boil your battery dry] month around here.

    I worked a lot with DC motor variable speed drives back in the '80's which used SCRs to rectify and chop AC. They have some rather sophisticated feedback loop systems to compensate for load and control acceleration and were pretty much bulletproof even in constant industrial process use. The only one I ever fried had one SCR that wasn't properly bedded to the heat sink. Many of those boards are still in use.

    The unit is larger and heavier than I expected it to be; looks to be first class, well potted and has a stainless plate on the bottom.
    Interesting you mention motor control, because the same technology used for brushless DC motor control is used today's modern R/Rs. synchronous control of brushless DC motor required current control in sync with the position of the motor. This is called synchronous rectification and is also the same thing employed in the first MOSFET Shunt R/R. The SCR has automatic shut-off so it doesn't need the same synchronous control logic.

    The first MOSFET SHUNT R/Rs designed to replace SCR SHUNT R/R's can not be described to be anything else but a brain fart. The reality is that by simply changing the control logic in the MOSFET R/R you get a series R/R instead of a SHUNT R/R. It is basically a firmware change. Other things come to play but that is the bottom line. The efficiency of the MOSFETs only serve to keep the SHUNT R/R from burning while putting even more voltage across the stator and force it to dissipate even more power.



    I'm not a high speed motor designer, but my background is in control systems which usually center on motor controls. Back in 2004-06 I was a consultant on a military program where I was leading a Modeling and Simulation(M&S) and a Motor Design group in the development of an ultra highspeed 5+1 axis gimbal system. There was an incumbent system(see link below) we were trying to replace. In the end we could prove the incumbent system was a "point design" as from our trade study, we developed a parametric family of designs that could be sized based on available power. The response time was limited by the power available. It is basically a very fast and compact robot. As it was vehicle mounted, it was optimized for SWAP-C (Space Weight,Power, Cost).

    We got into into not only sophisticated motor controls, but coordinated motion control for "on-the-move" (over rough terrain) hit-to-kill intercepts.

    This was the legacy system

    Last edited by posplayr; 01-08-2016, 04:25 PM.

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  • John Park
    replied
    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    Any electronics component is subject to manufacturing defects depending on the quality of the manufacturing process and the design. Early failure is called 'infant mortality" in the reliability jargon. In regard to design, a SERIES R/R that does not short the stator windings is going to lead a much less stressful life running cooler and for much longer, heat being one of the primary factors in accelerated life.

    I have heard of some infant mortality issues on perhaps one of two of the Compufire units (some time back but not at the GSR) but generally once they are installed for a short period(failures show up early) they seem to work flawlessly. As for the SH-775 I do not recall any reported failures. The SH-775 is a SCR type design rather than FET type and these are generally not as susceptible as MOSFETS to ESD in particular. Generally once installed and run for a while, the MOSFET designs should be just a reliable as the SCR. My expectation is that these new R/Rs will probably outlast the bikes themselves being less likely to overheat themselves and much more tolerant of bad connections (which the SHUNT are NOT; then cook themselves when they have bad connections).

    I get that sense that your are still concerned that these SERIES R/Rs are a "flash in the pan". Rest assured they are not and you can find comfort that there are a few motorcycle OEM's that are now installing SERIES units at the factory as an indication of the benefits.
    Not at all. In fact, I just picked up my new SH775 this morning. I have an 'as new' almost no mile original stator circa 1980 that I've installed in my refreshed 450 motor, and it will be interesting to see how the combo does in July, which is stator torching [and boil your battery dry] month around here.

    I worked a lot with DC motor variable speed drives back in the '80's which used SCRs to rectify and chop AC. They have some rather sophisticated feedback loop systems to compensate for load and control acceleration and were pretty much bulletproof even in constant industrial process use. The only one I ever fried had one SCR that wasn't properly bedded to the heat sink. Many of those boards are still in use.

    The unit is larger and heavier than I expected it to be; looks to be first class, well potted and has a stainless plate on the bottom.

    Leave a comment:


  • rudeman
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by John Park View Post
    Polaris must be wondering why so many regulators are failing, and Triumph must be revisiting their lead link design…..
    I think what he means is that Polaris must think their R/Rs are failing since they sell so many of them. Triumph must wonder about their connectors as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by John Park View Post
    Have there been [any? many?] failures of the SH775, or are they seemingly pretty rugged if installed correctly?
    Any electronics component is subject to manufacturing defects depending on the quality of the manufacturing process and the design. Early failure is called 'infant mortality" in the reliability jargon. In regard to design, a SERIES R/R that does not short the stator windings is going to lead a much less stressful life running cooler and for much longer, heat being one of the primary factors in accelerated life.

    I have heard of some infant mortality issues on perhaps one of two of the Compufire units (some time back but not at the GSR) but generally once they are installed for a short period(failures show up early) they seem to work flawlessly. As for the SH-775 I do not recall any reported failures. The SH-775 is a SCR type design rather than FET type and these are generally not as susceptible as MOSFETS to ESD in particular. Generally once installed and run for a while, the MOSFET designs should be just a reliable as the SCR. My expectation is that these new R/Rs will probably outlast the bikes themselves being less likely to overheat themselves and much more tolerant of bad connections (which the SHUNT are NOT; then cook themselves when they have bad connections).

    I get that sense that your are still concerned that these SERIES R/Rs are a "flash in the pan". Rest assured they are not and you can find comfort that there are a few motorcycle OEM's that are now installing SERIES units at the factory as an indication of the benefits.
    Last edited by posplayr; 01-08-2016, 12:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tkent02
    replied
    I have never heard of one failing.

    Probably possible if you short it out or something.

    Leave a comment:


  • John Park
    replied
    Have there been [any? many?] failures of the SH775, or are they seemingly pretty rugged if installed correctly?

    Leave a comment:


  • John Park
    replied
    Originally posted by rudeman View Post
    I ordered from Bike Bandit where I get free shipping on orders over $29.

    Triumph part No.T2500676 LINK LEAD, REGULATOR
    2746333
    $9.46
    Polaris part No.4012941 REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C
    2796160
    $73.94
    I even redeemed a some Bandit Bucks to knock a few more $ off.
    Polaris must be wondering why so many regulators are failing, and Triumph must be revisiting their lead link design…..

    Leave a comment:


  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by Datsa Noydb View Post
    The few that I have seen had the Fuse box to Ignition as the continuous wire.
    The wire to the R/R + was crimped onto it.
    I suspect the ones I have seen were the same, it is just too far back for me to be definitive.

    Leave a comment:


  • Datsa Noydb
    replied
    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    I don't know which wire of the "T" is continuous either
    Fuse box to Ignition
    of
    R/R(+) to Ignition

    It doesn't matter as I'm pretty sure it is NOT
    R/R(+) to Battery(+) which is why there can be an issue.
    The few that I have seen had the Fuse box to Ignition as the continuous wire.
    The wire to the R/R + was crimped onto it.

    Leave a comment:


  • rudeman
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
    Great work Steve. Now where is the cheapest place to get that Triumph connector from?
    I ordered from Bike Bandit where I get free shipping on orders over $29.

    Triumph part No.T2500676 LINK LEAD, REGULATOR
    2746333
    $9.46
    Polaris part No.4012941 REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C
    2796160
    $73.94
    I even redeemed a some Bandit Bucks to knock a few more $ off.

    Leave a comment:


  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by jbird7262 View Post
    Is the "power T" an area in the harness that has some of the vinyl coating removed exposing the copper wire?
    Yes it is typically about 3" in from where your R/R red wire disappears into the harness. That same red coated wire is stripped and crimped to the main lead from fusebox to ignition switch.

    I don't know which wire of the "T" is continuous either
    Fuse box to Ignition
    of
    R/R(+) to Ignition

    It doesn't matter as I'm pretty sure it is NOT
    R/R(+) to Battery(+) which is why there can be an issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • jbird7262
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Cassius086 View Post
    Thanks, guys.

    I still have the old harness, so I'll cut into that to find the power "T" before I go hunting for it on the new harness.

    I forgot to mention...new factory fuse block, as well.
    Is the "power T" an area in the harness that has some of the vinyl coating removed exposing the copper wire?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cassius086
    replied
    Deoxit is ordered and on the way. Already have a relay for the coils & ignition and am building a little harness

    Need to get the battery box & little flat bar mount for the SH775 blasted and powder coated (or repainted) before I do the install.
    Last edited by Cassius086; 04-22-2014, 09:46 AM.

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  • posplayr
    replied
    Originally posted by Cassius086 View Post
    Thanks, guys.

    I still have the old harness, so I'll cut into that to find the power "T" before I go hunting for it on the new harness.

    I forgot to mention...new factory fuse block, as well.
    The T is about 3" in from where the r/r connections dive into the harness. If you have a brand new harness it might be ok.

    Get some detoxit and spray everything on the fusebox.

    BTW, when I restored my ED, I replaced nearly all of the electrical wiring including new harness, new righ and left hand switches and new ignition. IN about 1 1/2 years the bike was getting harder and harder to start. I did the coil relay mod and it would start instantly. It is only a matter of time unless you do annual detoxit treatments.

    Coil relay Mod tips including Headlamp Circuit improvements.


    Coil relay modification with Dyna S
    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.


    What the relay mod with Dyna S looks like.


    Simple Headlamp Relay Modification with cutout.


    1982 GS1100EZ harness differenced to 1983 GS1100ED
    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.


    For all of these the modifications above, are combined into the SSPB.
    Last edited by posplayr; 04-21-2014, 01:01 PM.

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  • Cassius086
    replied
    Thanks, guys.

    I still have the old harness, so I'll cut into that to find the power "T" before I go hunting for it on the new harness.

    I forgot to mention...new factory fuse block, as well.

    Leave a comment:

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