Series Regulator Source SH775

[salty_monk]

Ed,

Quite a chunk of travel coming up but I'd love to have a go at it one weekend if we can figure it out....
Got some new toys to show you too!

[tkent02]

Planning on putting a series regulator on a couple bikes, the 1100G and the 550/650 for starters.

I would be happy to do some test riding, keep track of temperatures before and after, etc. but I need a cheap oil temp gauge I can slap on there temporarily. Or maybe something that just sticks on the side of the stator cover...
Anyone know of one that is just a quick mount/dismount? I don't want a silly oil temp gauge on there permanently.

[tom203]

Agree.

Keep in mind that in order to heat oil up to 270 F, the stator would have to be hotter than this by a fair amount. Does a GS stator run at 300 F due to shunted current?

If it did, your toes would know about real quick- my 650 stator does not see any oil unless it's on side stand or lying on its side. I'm skeptical of any oil cooling effect - positive or negative - on stator. But I'm beginning to think some oil chemicals are detrimental to stator insulation.

[posplayr]

Well Jim, it that stator is running at 400+ F then it will heat the oil as you say.

What stator company uses powder coat and how do you come by that information?

Ed,
Attached is a picture of a Electrosport R/R that was a brand new install with a FH0012A FET R/R after only 250 miles on a trip from SB out through Ojai on Highway 33 to Maricopa and back.

The reason I took off the stator cover was to deal with an oil leak. There is clear heat damage. Most of the trip I was going 40-70 mph and mostly in the 4000+ RPM range. I like to stay in the mid range power band in the twisties.

There is clear heat damage on the upper side of the stator (where there is less likely to be an oil bath). The baby blue epoxy insulation on the stator is burned but not yet crispy. I understand that it is common practice to use thermally conductive epoxy powder coat on these stators. While I don't know the specific brand used by Electrosport with some investigation I found you need right at about 400 degF just to cure powdercoat. I'm guessing that 450-500 degF is needed to char the stator.

I immediately fabricated an oil sprayer and then later after finding out about it added the Compufire. Last I looked at the stator it was the same condition as you see here following an additional 5000+ miles of riding. In other words the damaging effects were arrested.

Jim

[JEEPRUSTY]

Or the heating discolouration had reached its fullest extent for the range of temps it was being exposed to?

I am a firm believer of the touch test. My cover is hot not searing hot to the touch. The cooler running stator would act as a heat sink yes?

[bluewool]

If it did, your toes would know about real quick- my 650 stator does not see any oil unless it's on side stand or lying on its side. I'm skeptical of any oil cooling effect - positive or negative - on stator. But I'm beginning to think some oil chemicals are detrimental to stator insulation.

When I was picking up some transformer wire for a stator rewire(I never did- but may as I have an RM stator core - surprise- surprise) from the local industrial rewinding shop he mentioned that much of the older shellac did not like prolonged exposure to gasoline.

[Macmatic]

Has this SH775 R/R been vetted as a cheaper alternative to the Compufire? I've seen several people say they've bought one but I haven't seen (or overlooked) anyone coming back with reports of testing or comparison to the Compufire part.

My Honda R/R seems to have soiled the bed just before I left on a vacation ride to Georgia last Fall and the bike has been parked in the garage ever since. Now I'm finally dragging my butt out to there to turn some wrenches and I'm planning to replace the Honda unit with either a Compufire or one of these units. $64 plus shipping is s lot more attractive... A local friend I sold a GS450 to last year is also interested. I was going to pass my Honda unit on to him but now it's a paperweight so we're both in the market. I think it's a paperweight anyway, I did some testing last year when the charging system went south and I'm pretty sure both the R/R and stator showed failure indicators.

My apologies if this has been answered or debunked already, as usual over the last few years I've been away from the forum for a long time and I've been trying to take in WAY too much new info over the last few days.

/\/\ac

[Macmatic]

Just as a heads-up in case anyone was on the fence about this: Prices are rising. It'd seen this 4012941 Polaris number around $60 at several sites but I hadn't pulled the trigger yet. Last night I went to order a couple and the price at motosport.com had jumped $20+ and had similar jumps at other sites. I ended up buying from Partzilla for $63ea but with pricy shipping.

Anyway, now may be the time if you were thinking about it.
/\/\ac

[tom203]

Prices are rising????? I'm calling Bernanke and writing the media- they keep telling me all is well and don't worry, be happy!

Anyways, let us know how it works out- I'd opt for the sh-775 if I needed a decent R/R right now. Did you actually test the R/R before you pronounced it dead? my shindengen survived my short circuited stator with no problems (I tortured it by running it deliberately) . and Thanks for posting,

[salty_monk]

I'm running one of these & it works at least as well as the FH010 that I had on it before but I still have not seen any independent test as to it being a Series unit.

[Macmatic]

Prices are rising????? I'm calling Bernanke and writing the media- they keep telling me all is well and don't worry, be happy!

...droll on my brother, droll on. Now please pardon me while I go buy things on credit to do my part in The War Against THEM!!!

But seriously, there was a 33% price spike overnight, it seemed alarming to me at the time anyway and I think my Visa is still crying softly to itself.

Anyways, let us know how it works out- I'd opt for the sh-775 if I needed a decent R/R right now. Did you actually test the R/R before you pronounced it dead? my shindengen survived my short circuited stator with no problems (I tortured it by running it deliberately) . and Thanks for posting,

I had determined that the R/R was dead last Fall but I'll be checking it again to verify. The charging system went down shortly before I was going to ride to Georgia so there was a lot of repacking and plan changing going on at the time. I'm swapping out the whole top end of the engine at the same time so it'll be a bit but I'll post back with some numbers once I'm done.

I'm running one of these & it works at least as well as the FH010 that I had on it before but I still have not seen any independent test as to it being a Series unit.

Heh... I'm not putting my foot in that battle. Tell me though, does your engine run cooler with it? Shindengen says it's Series as well as the parts listing so I'm just going to go with that unless someone comes up with better info.


-Mac

[salty_monk]

I have not the faintest idea if it runs cooler or hotter than before... No gauges to measure so I tend to ignore it!

What I can tell you is that the Kawasaki ones that get more oil to them do not give out as easily as the Suzuki ones....

[posplayr]

Or the heating discolouration had reached its fullest extent for the range of temps it was being exposed to?

I am a firm believer of the touch test. My cover is hot not searing hot to the touch. The cooler running stator would act as a heat sink yes?

That would appear as a totally off the wall supposition. I'm sure I stated before that after changing to the Series R/R this particular stator's coloration never changed again.

[JEEPRUSTY]

What I think I meant PP was that once a high heat had made a dis-colouration then no subsequent heat build up less than the highest achieved would produce any further dis-colouration.

Like a torch on metal and the pattern you get. You cannot change the pattern unless you add more heat...... Least not from what I have seen.

[posplayr]

What I think I meant PP was that once a high heat had made a dis-colouration then no subsequent heat build up less than the highest achieved would produce any further dis-colouration.

Like a torch on metal and the pattern you get. You cannot change the pattern unless you add more heat...... Least not from what I have seen.

The problem with that theory is that the supposition is that the discoloration gets no worse than that shown. Not true. Again more background, I had just changed the ES stator and ran it 250 miles yielding the discoloration shown in the picture. The former ES stator had 5000+ miles and was burnt (i.e. much worse discoloration). There was no change to the FET R/R. So the heating effect in the pictures you see is only the initial discoloration. After changing to CF, the discoloration stopped.