Series Regulator Source SH775

[Nessism]

One question: Does that SH775 have enough current capacity?

[salty_monk]

14amp with no cooling might be tight but I think it should be ok.... The 27 or 35 amp should be enough for sure.

Usually there is a margin of safety built into the figures and my bike is rarely running stood still (plus I wonder if the stator can supply 14amp at idle in any case)

I've read of others using the 35A shunt shindengens without issue (even installed one on my 1000g for its next owner...

[Roger P.]

Looks like PosPlayer (Jim Moore) found that the alternator windings saturate at 27A @ approximately 3000rpm, by which time you should have more than the 1m/s (2.2mph)airflow required to keep things happy. Unless you are holding your revs at 3000 or more at a standstill in which case you get what you deserve.

[Chuck78]

What do you do for wiring connections to these? Will a female bullet connector just plug in? Or is there any source from electronics catalogs for plugs that fit these?

Very anxious to hear about how these install and function, as my budget cannot afford a Compufire or CE-600/601/602 etc

[niclpnut]

Female spade connectors fit right in. You would just need to fill the cavity with some electrical RTV/Silicone.

You can purchase plugs and or a full harness from http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html

or from numerous other sources. Ebay has a seller of connectors too. Maybe able to find them cheaper.

I am going the route of making my own wires (since I have a whole electrical connection kit) and filling the cavity with RTV.

Nic

[Chuck78]

I will be eagerly awaiting to hear how this works for you! I'm ready to swap one on my 77 gs750 asap & even more so on my wife's 77 GS550B that charges with a max output of 11.9 volts & has a pesky intermittent misfire problem!

[Chuck78]

I wonder how much success one could have coating the insides of the terminal area with dielectrode grease very lightly, installing wires & spade connectors with a clean outside surface, & then pouring in rtv or a similar silicone type product - to have a removeable plug?

[Chuck78]

Well I was going to wait and see how Roger did with his, but after troubleshooting mine today to determine that my r/r was definitely the source of my low voltage problems, I jumped the gun when I found a used SH775 on ebay from a motorsports salvage vendor...

When installing this, I assume that the connector with three male spade terminals will be the stator connections, and the other two will be the battery positive and the negative ground. To determine which is which if they aren't labeled, would I just be safe to assume that the negative would have continuity to ground? If so, should be a no brainer to swap!

Also, the wire on my wife's 77 GS550 that goes from the stator to the headlight switch and then back to the regulator/rectifier, can both of those wires to the switch just be abandoned?

[salty_monk]

Well I was going to wait and see how Roger did with his, but after troubleshooting mine today to determine that my r/r was definitely the source of my low voltage problems, I jumped the gun when I found a used SH775 on ebay from a motorsports salvage vendor...

When installing this, I assume that the connector with three male spade terminals will be the stator connections, and the other two will be the battery positive and the negative ground. To determine which is which if they aren't labeled, would I just be safe to assume that the negative would have continuity to ground? If so, should be a no brainer to swap!

Also, the wire on my wife's 77 GS550 that goes from the stator to the headlight switch and then back to the regulator/rectifier, can both of those wires to the switch just be abandoned?

If it's the same as the FHO12 etc shunt ones then it should look like this...




If there is a connector in the middle on the right then just ignore it. It's for an ECU hook-up I believe & not necessary on our bikes. (I have fitted 2 in this way, ignoring the middle leg & both worked fine).

[qcktvr]

Polaris RR

Hi Everyone,
I have been looking at the RR posts, my 1150EF only charges at 13v with the headlight on, but 14v without it; I have been saving for a compufire so the Polaris RR at $65 is tempting...
BUT there is evidently a problem with their units on 2010 sleds, replaced under warranty, but... different pt #, 4012476, so maybe quite different, found a thread at snowandmud.com when I did a search..
Should I be concerned now that its 2012??
Still pondering
Trevor T.,
1984 1150EF in Durham Ontario

[Chuck78]

If it's the same as the FHO12 etc shunt ones then it should look like this...




If there is a connector in the middle on the right then just ignore it. It's for an ECU hook-up I believe & not necessary on our bikes. (I have fitted 2 in this way, ignoring the middle leg & both worked fine).

Well my current regulator is barely charging at 12.2V no matter what rpm's, and stator seemed to check out fine. I got a used SH775 last week and plan to put it on later today! I can't tell you much about engine temps, but I am really glad to have scored a series R/R for a very affordable price (about $45 used for a 1 year old piece from a wrecked Polaris 800)

Anyhow, I am going to install it as the photo above shows, 3 stator phases going into the connector with 3 terminals, and for the other connector, the red 14V output on the left, and the ground on the right. I sure hope they are consistent with their wiring!

[Roger P.]

Got mine two days ago, so the delivery was a bit long, but perhaps understandable as it came from Texas. Unfortunately, the weather has turned to crap lately, so I might not be digging too far into this project before the snow falls. I have no garage to work in, and a honey-do list that seems predicated on fine weather, but if the weather turns nice for a bit, I might just ride it up the road to work and swap it out there. It would be nice, as I have access to a Fluke FLIR IR camera.







No indications of polarity for the output terminals at all, so I guess I'll try the wiring from the picture above when the time comes. I notice that the last numbers on the bottom seem to indicate a later modeal than the first pic in this thread, so maybe there are some subtle upgrades inside.

My apologies to Chuck78. I missed your PM, as I miss almost all of them. I rarely log in if I'm just browsing the thread.

[niclpnut]

I tested both of the sh775s I have. One is on my 78 1000 and the other on my 83 1100.

Wiring is the same as pictured above. DIY style.

Both work great with constant and even voltage readings at each rpm setting indicated in the quick check/stater papers test.

I'm quite happy with this unit and would recommend it.

Nic

[robertbarr]

I just picked one up new for $35. I have a FH009 installed that I'm pretty impressed with as far as super-stable regulation is concerned; it looks like this will plug in as a direct replacement, and I can compare the two.

What I can't compare, unfortunately, is current draw from any of the stator legs to watch the serial regulation in action. I'm guessing that'd take a scope.

So, one will be the operational unit and the other will be a spare. Odds are I won't need a spare, but...

[Chuck78]

Well, this is all great news! I'm glad I've gotten a hold of one of these fine scores, and didn't have to spend $200 on a new Compufire or CE602 unit to get this technology!