Series Regulator Source SH775

[posplayr]

Yeah, connect the red wire from stock R/R plug to positive output from SH-775. This lets the SH-775 feed power direct into harness rather than visiting battery. I'd solder it and skip bullets.

Agree, the only other thing you might do is open up the harness and look for the power "T" and put some solder on that.

When you are all done you can confirm that the voltage drops are minimized using the Revised Phase A stator tests (see my signature)

Eliminating this aggravation is what lead me to design the SSPB.

Oh and clean out the fuse box and fuses.

[tom203]

So the simplest way to keep the R/R wired as factory and leave the ignition in the loop is to remove the red 12v lead from the stock R/R plug and either crimp & solder or use bullet connector to the SH775?

Please remember that I am electrically challenged.

Yeah, connect the red wire from stock R/R plug to positive output from SH-775. This lets the SH-775 feed power direct into harness rather than visiting battery. I'd solder it and skip bullets.

[Cassius086]

So the simplest way to keep the R/R wired as factory and leave the ignition in the loop is to remove the red 12v lead from the stock R/R plug and either crimp & solder or use bullet connector to the SH775?

Please remember that I am electrically challenged.

[posplayr]

You can wire the positive directly to the battery + terminal through an inline fuse and a ring connector under the terminal bolt. Then wire the negative from the R/R straight to the battery - as well using the same type of ring connector arrangement. As for the 3 stator wires, I'd wire those directly to the stator but if you don't want to modify the stator outputs, then use bullet connectors like stock. No changes to the main harness or stator this way.

The issue with this method is that you have to increase the fuse size to 20-25 amps from the stock 15 amp size. It is a fundamental change to the way the R/R was connected and should be connected.

I have posted analysis showing the direct comparison between the two methods.

Of course some people also run 40 amp main fuses so, lots of things work for a while until they do not.

I dug up this thread that you might want to pursue.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=170746&highlight=r%2FR+connections

The detailed analysis of the difference between the two methods is here

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1913839&postcount=28

[JTGS850GL]

You can wire the positive directly to the battery + terminal through an inline fuse and a ring connector under the terminal bolt. Then wire the negative from the R/R straight to the battery - as well using the same type of ring connector arrangement. As for the 3 stator wires, I'd wire those directly to the stator but if you don't want to modify the stator outputs, then use bullet connectors like stock. No changes to the main harness or stator this way.

[Cassius086]

Recommendations for wiring in the 775?

I have a brand new factory harness, so I'd rather not do a bunch of cutting. I do have the Triumph pig tail, but it has 2 (+) and 2 (-) leads on the end of the pigtail.

Can I connect directly to the battery with an inline fuse for 12v, or should I find a switched source? I'd rather not do a bunch of cutting to this shiny new harness.

Practically every electrical component on my 1100EZ is new:

Right hand switch
Wiring harness
Stator
R/R
Battery
Coils
Also has a Dyna S installed, but that is a couple years old now.

I am paranoid about wiring something wrong and frying all my hard earned new parts.

Here's a used one for a pretty good price. I just ordered mine from the same guy and got it for $35.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291114875075...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Now I need to talk to my local triumph dealer.

[pete]

A Note for the Aussies

Just a quick one for any Aussies reading this thread and thinking of buying a SH775...

I got a price here in Aus, $156 for the Polaris branded SH775 plus $11.50 freight, making $167.50.

The best price I could find online from the US was Partzilla for $US67.92 plus $US39.99 shipping.

After the $AU conversion I was still able to buy 5L oil (Penrite HPR15 15w50 diesel $40) for the next oil change and have $5 change, so it still pays not to buy it locally unless you're in a hurry...

My R/R won't ship until the 26th March so it'll be a few weeks 'til I get it. At this stage I'm not in a hurry so that's fine.

The only thing left is to source the connectors. Getting Robert Barr to ship one of his is $US23.50 so I'll see if the Triumph part is cheaper than that to buy locally. The connector is something like $US9.42 from memory as a comparison.

So I started work on replacing fasteners and prepping things for replacement of the stock R/R with the SH775...except it won't fit in the OEM position.

Mounting hole spacing is good, but clearance at the bottom is no good due to the connections.

However, if I move the 775 up to the top of the GS's mounting plate, the plugs will clear, I think. BUT this will require grinding down the top heat sink fin nearly all the way. I'm thinking that is a bad idea...


Do you think that the R/R will get enough air flow if I mount it on the back side of the mounting plate in the battery bay?

No airbox, so there should be plenty of room.

I created a bracket that mounts to the front engine mount. I used the upper bolt on the frame. THe bracket goes very close in front of the frame over to the other side and back to the opposite upper bolt. I used a 2"x1/8" steel. This provided a nice surface for the regulator. I drilled two holes to mount the regulator centered.

I created an adapter with about 24" of length using heavy grade wire so that I don't have to change any of the current plugs. This actually allows me to keep the traditional shunt r/r mounted and available as a backup. It's easy to plug/unplug from one to the other.

So far it seems to be working well and of course gets plenty of air. I made sure to mount the regulator so it doesn't block the air to the cylinder fins. It sits just above the oil filter so it doesn't block changing that when needed.

[Cassius086]

What is interfering? In my case (GS850G) the power connector was slightly interfering with the Ignitor. I spaced out the Ignitor a quarter inch. Can you move around what is in the way?

Bob, the 12v plug housing interferes with the frame. Going to see about finagling it a bit...the R/R, not the frame. ha!

[tkent02]

I just used this price list to get some leverage at my local Polaris dealer, he matched the price, even knocked it off a little so that even with sales tax it would be equal to the internet price with shipping. It took about four days to get to the dealer.

[bobgroger]

What is interfering? In my case (GS850G) the power connector was slightly interfering with the Ignitor. I spaced out the Ignitor a quarter inch. Can you move around what is in the way?

[tom203]

Don't fret it will get plenty of airflow-your legs create lots of turbulence! here's mine, upside down , mounted under rear gastank support. easy to check

[posplayr]

So I started work on replacing fasteners and prepping things for replacement of the stock R/R with the SH775...except it won't fit in the OEM position.

Mounting hole spacing is good, but clearance at the bottom is no good due to the connections.

However, if I move the 775 up to the top of the GS's mounting plate, the plugs will clear, I think. BUT this will require grinding down the top heat sink fin nearly all the way. I'm thinking that is a bad idea...


Do you think that the R/R will get enough air flow if I mount it on the back side of the mounting plate in the battery bay?

No airbox, so there should be plenty of room.

Grinding some of the heat sink will probably not have any affect. Just try to avoid going too far beyond and into the potting material. Even if you just touch the potting material that won't be bad either, but if you persist eventually you will hit electronics.

You can also just put spades directly to the R/R and epoxy/RTV the shell of the R/R. You could even put some solder directly on the spades before epoxy filling. Those inputs can take quite a bit of heat. Now you have pigtails which are much easier to deal with in cramped quarters.

[Cassius086]

So I started work on replacing fasteners and prepping things for replacement of the stock R/R with the SH775...except it won't fit in the OEM position.

Mounting hole spacing is good, but clearance at the bottom is no good due to the connections.

However, if I move the 775 up to the top of the GS's mounting plate, the plugs will clear, I think. BUT this will require grinding down the top heat sink fin nearly all the way. I'm thinking that is a bad idea...


Do you think that the R/R will get enough air flow if I mount it on the back side of the mounting plate in the battery bay?

No airbox, so there should be plenty of room.