Series Regulator Source SH775

[Triam]

Here's a used one for a pretty good price. I just ordered mine from the same guy and got it for $35.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291114875075...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Now I need to talk to my local triumph dealer.

[Cassius086]

Recommendations for wiring in the 775?

I have a brand new factory harness, so I'd rather not do a bunch of cutting. I do have the Triumph pig tail, but it has 2 (+) and 2 (-) leads on the end of the pigtail.

Can I connect directly to the battery with an inline fuse for 12v, or should I find a switched source? I'd rather not do a bunch of cutting to this shiny new harness.

Practically every electrical component on my 1100EZ is new:

Right hand switch
Wiring harness
Stator
R/R
Battery
Coils
Also has a Dyna S installed, but that is a couple years old now.

I am paranoid about wiring something wrong and frying all my hard earned new parts.

[JTGS850GL]

You can wire the positive directly to the battery + terminal through an inline fuse and a ring connector under the terminal bolt. Then wire the negative from the R/R straight to the battery - as well using the same type of ring connector arrangement. As for the 3 stator wires, I'd wire those directly to the stator but if you don't want to modify the stator outputs, then use bullet connectors like stock. No changes to the main harness or stator this way.

[posplayr]

You can wire the positive directly to the battery + terminal through an inline fuse and a ring connector under the terminal bolt. Then wire the negative from the R/R straight to the battery - as well using the same type of ring connector arrangement. As for the 3 stator wires, I'd wire those directly to the stator but if you don't want to modify the stator outputs, then use bullet connectors like stock. No changes to the main harness or stator this way.

The issue with this method is that you have to increase the fuse size to 20-25 amps from the stock 15 amp size. It is a fundamental change to the way the R/R was connected and should be connected.

I have posted analysis showing the direct comparison between the two methods.

Of course some people also run 40 amp main fuses so, lots of things work for a while until they do not.

I dug up this thread that you might want to pursue.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=170746&highlight=r%2FR+connections

The detailed analysis of the difference between the two methods is here

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1913839&postcount=28

[Cassius086]

So the simplest way to keep the R/R wired as factory and leave the ignition in the loop is to remove the red 12v lead from the stock R/R plug and either crimp & solder or use bullet connector to the SH775?

Please remember that I am electrically challenged.

[tom203]

So the simplest way to keep the R/R wired as factory and leave the ignition in the loop is to remove the red 12v lead from the stock R/R plug and either crimp & solder or use bullet connector to the SH775?

Please remember that I am electrically challenged.

Yeah, connect the red wire from stock R/R plug to positive output from SH-775. This lets the SH-775 feed power direct into harness rather than visiting battery. I'd solder it and skip bullets.

[posplayr]

Yeah, connect the red wire from stock R/R plug to positive output from SH-775. This lets the SH-775 feed power direct into harness rather than visiting battery. I'd solder it and skip bullets.

Agree, the only other thing you might do is open up the harness and look for the power "T" and put some solder on that.

When you are all done you can confirm that the voltage drops are minimized using the Revised Phase A stator tests (see my signature)

Eliminating this aggravation is what lead me to design the SSPB.

Oh and clean out the fuse box and fuses.

[Cassius086]

Thanks, guys.

I still have the old harness, so I'll cut into that to find the power "T" before I go hunting for it on the new harness.

I forgot to mention...new factory fuse block, as well.

[posplayr]

Thanks, guys.

I still have the old harness, so I'll cut into that to find the power "T" before I go hunting for it on the new harness.

I forgot to mention...new factory fuse block, as well.

The T is about 3" in from where the r/r connections dive into the harness. If you have a brand new harness it might be ok.

Get some detoxit and spray everything on the fusebox.

BTW, when I restored my ED, I replaced nearly all of the electrical wiring including new harness, new righ and left hand switches and new ignition. IN about 1 1/2 years the bike was getting harder and harder to start. I did the coil relay mod and it would start instantly. It is only a matter of time unless you do annual detoxit treatments.

Coil relay Mod tips including Headlamp Circuit improvements.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=218780

Coil relay modification with Dyna S

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=141055

What the relay mod with Dyna S looks like.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=212791

Simple Headlamp Relay Modification with cutout.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=218985

1982 GS1100EZ harness differenced to 1983 GS1100ED

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123422

For all of these the modifications above, are combined into the SSPB.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=210261

[Cassius086]

Deoxit is ordered and on the way. Already have a relay for the coils & ignition and am building a little harness

Need to get the battery box & little flat bar mount for the SH775 blasted and powder coated (or repainted) before I do the install.

[jbird7262]

Thanks, guys.

I still have the old harness, so I'll cut into that to find the power "T" before I go hunting for it on the new harness.

I forgot to mention...new factory fuse block, as well.

Is the "power T" an area in the harness that has some of the vinyl coating removed exposing the copper wire?

[posplayr]

Is the "power T" an area in the harness that has some of the vinyl coating removed exposing the copper wire?

Yes it is typically about 3" in from where your R/R red wire disappears into the harness. That same red coated wire is stripped and crimped to the main lead from fusebox to ignition switch.

I don't know which wire of the "T" is continuous either
Fuse box to Ignition
of
R/R(+) to Ignition

It doesn't matter as I'm pretty sure it is NOT
R/R(+) to Battery(+) which is why there can be an issue.

[rudeman]

Great work Steve. Now where is the cheapest place to get that Triumph connector from?

I ordered from Bike Bandit where I get free shipping on orders over $29.

Triumph part No.T2500676	LINK LEAD, REGULATOR 2746333	$9.46
Polaris part No.4012941	REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C 2796160	$73.94

I even redeemed a some Bandit Bucks to knock a few more $ off.

[Datsa Noydb]

I don't know which wire of the "T" is continuous either
Fuse box to Ignition
of
R/R(+) to Ignition

It doesn't matter as I'm pretty sure it is NOT
R/R(+) to Battery(+) which is why there can be an issue.

The few that I have seen had the Fuse box to Ignition as the continuous wire.
The wire to the R/R + was crimped onto it.

[posplayr]

The few that I have seen had the Fuse box to Ignition as the continuous wire.
The wire to the R/R + was crimped onto it.

I suspect the ones I have seen were the same, it is just too far back for me to be definitive.