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Anyone have a GS1100E wiring diagram?

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    Anyone have a GS1100E wiring diagram?

    I've been looking at the GS1100 diagram on BassClif's site, but I don't think it's the right one for my bike. For example I don't have any gear indicator lights aside from a neutral indicator light. The other thing is the brake switches. The rear brake switch is part of the MC correct? Mine has a G/W (green w/white tracer) and a B/W (black w/white tracer). According to the diagram on BassClif's site those colors are for the side stand indicator. I don't think I have one of those either...

    Any help? I thought I had an issue I am having with my brake light and tail light while looking at the wiring diagram at work. When I got home though none of the wires I thought were the culprit even ru to the right spot!

    #2
    Originally posted by Sojourner View Post
    The rear brake switch is part of the MC correct?
    Nope. The rear brake switch is completely separate from the master cylinder.

    If you look on the right side of the frame, you will see the reservoir attached high, to the rear of the triangle of frame tubes. The hose out the bottom of the reservoir leads down and forward to the master cylinder. Below the reservoir is a tab that holds the brake switch. It should angle down and forward. There should be a wire with a spring in the middle that follows the line of the frame tube down to a tab in the brake pedal. Out the top side of the switch will be the wires that go to the fuse and the brake light.

    You can see the switch near the bottom left corner of this picture, just below the frame rail.



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      #3
      So what are the G/W and B/W wires that "plug" in the bottom of the resevoir? Taking my oldest to the ER right now, I'll have to check and see if I have a switch like the one in your picture (bottom left, under the diagonal frame member).

      Comment


        #4
        B/W is always ground. Test with your multimeter. The other should be power, follow the wiring diagram found on BassCliff's web site.

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          #5
          Wiring diagram is in the factory service manual.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

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            #6
            Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
            B/W is always ground. Test with your multimeter. The other should be power, follow the wiring diagram found on BassCliff's web site.
            As stated above, the only diagram on BassClif's site for an 1100 obviously is for a different year or model/trim level (ex: an L and not an E).

            Thanks Nessism, I'll check the factory manual I've got. Forgot about it being there!
            Last edited by Guest; 10-04-2012, 08:31 PM.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Sojourner View Post
              So what are the G/W and B/W wires that "plug" in the bottom of the resevoir? Taking my oldest to the ER right now, I'll have to check and see if I have a switch like the one in your picture (bottom left, under the diagonal frame member).
              Your dashboard on your bike has a low brake fluid level indicator. thats what those wires are. Its a dummy light switch.

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                #8
                All the Suzuki Service Manuals carry the wiring diagram. Some are in color and on BC's site. But the color codes in the SSMs are listed and not that difficult to follow. Seems like there was also a thread here also listing wiring diagrams.
                AFA Clymer or Haynes. IDK. Never found them worth looking at.
                Sorry if you found that difficult to follow; I admit to presuming certain things.

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                  #9
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                  Last edited by Guest; 10-04-2012, 10:14 PM.

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                    #10
                    When you get it, I suggest you make multiple copies, at at least 11x17, and then trace the wires of interest with multiple thin highlighters. Very useful. I even had one that covered half my kitchen table, but I was able to find the area of interest easily using this method.
                    Best of luck.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yep. Sorry man, I thought you were referring to the 20+ wiring diagrams he has linked in the upper right. The GS1100 one in THAT list was for the wrong model. Totally forgot about each manual having one as well.

                      I've located the G/W and B/W wires I was mistaking for the rear brake switch, and they are indeed a low brake fluid indicator. I've never seen it lit, so I didn't know it was one of the options on the dashboard/light-up bike diagram thing.

                      So now I know where to look for the correct switch. The odd thing is still the two inline fuse holders that are on my bike but not in the diagram. I have to assume a PO put them in there, but I haven't got a clue as to why. Occasionally the tail light and brake light indicator light up on the diagram idiot light. If I wiggle the brown wire one of them goes out/on, and if I wiggle the white the tail light indicator lights up/off. The funny thing is, even if the tail light idiot light is on, the tail light remains lit. The brake light never comes on (same bulb btw, just supposed to light up brighter) if either brake is depressed- regardless of if the brake light idiot light is lit or not.

                      I have found a big abrasion in the wire wrap/heat shrink cover of the Turn Signal Control Unit. Close inspection shows that the B/W (ground) wire is cut in two, and the Bl/R (IIRC, it's night time here now) is only hanging together by a few copper strands. That would explain why I sometimes lose my turns signals after a big bump. Apparently the wire wiggles into an angle that the few strands just aren't enough to carry the current necessary.

                      Also, it appears that I have a problem with my fuel gauge. I shorted the wires from the harness (connected Y/B or was it Y/G? to the B/W ground) and the needle never moved.

                      Good thing I took a day's vacation to work on the bike tomorrow. Looks like I have electrical work to do aside from replacing the clutch and brakes cables as well as making/installing a new braided line from the front MC to the split (the new bars left them all too short). Might as well clean the front brake switch while I'm at it. At least there's a simple write-up on BassCliff's site, provided I don't lose the damn spring...
                      Last edited by Guest; 10-04-2012, 11:07 PM.

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                        #12
                        NP. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you.
                        First, the multiple copies/ many color highlighters are your friend. Isolate the areas of interest. Tackle each one at a time. If you have already discovered issues (as you have) do it one at a time.
                        I have investigated many harnesses and found each to have their unique issues. Just tackle it one at a time and you can get it done.
                        AFA the fuel gauge (a minor issue) the part in the tank is a varistor. You can purchase resistors at Radio Shack for $0.99 that will will give a different value (IDK on your bike) that will indicate a failure in the sending unit in the tank or the wiring or the unit itself. The details are in the SSM afa the values required for testing.

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                          #13
                          And there are no in-line fuses on the stock Suz wiring harness. You need to figure out why the are there and fix the problem, for certain. They are a patch, not a fix.

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                            #14
                            Those inline fuse holders in the headlight bucket are stock. They are on both 80/81 harnesses.
                            Just leave them alone. Work on hooking every wire up correctly with solid connections that do not faulter when wiggled.
                            I am going to pm you about some oddities i found with the 1100 e system

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                              #15
                              That's exactly where they're at, the lunchbox/bucket/headlight fairing thing. I really don't know what to call that thing- everyone seems to have their own term.

                              Anyway, if they are stock, can you tell me what size they are *supposed* to be? It might very well be that the PO shoved the wrong one in there. It wouldn't account for the wiggle symptoms, but I'd feel better knowing they're correct.

                              I have a sneaking suspicion that the R/Bl wire is the culprit. Or what appears to be R/Bl? Maybe that's B/Bl? The diagram isn't the clearest scan unfortunately. Anyway, it runs from the brake light idiot light to both brake switches. Obviously the bulb is getting power since it lights up at tail light strength.

                              Still a tad confused why the turn signals work even thought the ground wire from the Turn Signal Control Unit is severed?

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