Anyone have a GS1100E wiring diagram?

[loud et]

That's exactly where they're at, the lunchbox/bucket/headlight fairing thing. I really don't know what to call that thing- everyone seems to have their own term.

Anyway, if they are stock, can you tell me what size they are *supposed* to be? It might very well be that the PO shoved the wrong one in there. It wouldn't account for the wiggle symptoms, but I'd feel better knowing they're correct.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the R/Bl wire is the culprit. Or what appears to be R/Bl? Maybe that's B/Bl? The diagram isn't the clearest scan unfortunately. Anyway, it runs from the brake light idiot light to both brake switches. Obviously the bulb is getting power since it lights up at tail light strength.

Still a tad confused why the turn signals work even thought the ground wire from the Turn Signal Control Unit is severed?

Any glass tube fuse I have used works. The fuse holders on mine have a foil sticker on them that say 10amp. I have been fooled by the glass fuses before, they appear to be intact but in fact are no good. I started with all new fuses .Not saying thats your issue, just a pointer.

[Sojourner]

The ones that were in there were like a 15 amp and an 7amp. I replaced them with new ones with the same ratings. Yep- already considered that angle.

It's the wiggle that's got me perplexed. Maybe solder in new inline fuse holders? That and the odd wire here and there without a mate. Yep- tracing them out on the correct diagram now too. One's for the battery probe, I knew that much now. If only I could figure a way to clean that up. I guess I could always unscrew the "battery" bulb from the idiot light...

[loud et]

The ones that were in there were like a 15 amp and an 7amp. I replaced them with new ones with the same ratings. Yep- already considered that angle.

It's the wiggle that's got me perplexed. Maybe solder in new inline fuse holders? That and the odd wire here and there without a mate. Yep- tracing them out on the correct diagram now too. One's for the battery probe, I knew that much now. If only I could figure a way to clean that up. I guess I could always unscrew the "battery" bulb from the idiot light...

I actually think that is what people do, take the bulb out. Stupid dummy light. There is supposed to be a spring in those inline holders. Do the holder halves just go right together or is there spring resistence? That keeps the tension/connection on the fuse. It could be loose wire/solder also. Its not a major part of the system, probably a protection to keep other bulbs from blowing or cutting power to the rest of the system in case of surge/ too high of amps coming through the system for whatever reason. You could splice in new holders, just a few dollars each. I am sure you can fix the current ones.

[Sojourner]

Well I had that "AHA!" moment today. I got the OEM clutch and brake L model cables installed on my E. I had to since my new, higher bars left the cables both about 4" short.

Anyway, in the midst of doing that and fab'ing a stainless brake line out of parts from Earl's (Big thanks to Nessism for his write-up) since the stock was also about 4" too short, I found the first of my brake light issues somewhat by accident. Then I went and looked and found the second issue as well. <insert facepalm here...>

The front brake lever has two wires to trigger the brake light. Now I'm not an electrical engineer, but when one of those two wires is BROKEN IN HALF, I'm guessing the switch stops working.

The rear brake pedal apparently actuates a switch close to the rear diagonal of the frame that turns on the brake light. Best I can tell, there's a wire or some other such means of connection that is supposed to pull on the little nipple sticking out of the switch when the pedal is depressed. Apparently a PO didn't think it this linkage was at all necessary? The little nipple has a hole in it that had something hook through it as best I can tell. Now it has nothing.

So as soon as I can get the two small, stripped/rusted screws out of the front brake's housing I'm going to solder the wire back onto the switch board. In the meantime I'm going to dig up some parts fiches and try and figure out what piece I'm missing to work the rear brake/brake light linkage. If someone has a pic of it all they can send, I'd be much obliged.

Oh, and as for the "wiggle" problem, it's still there. Thankfully I have it packed into the headlight lunchbox pretty good and for the time being it's all working as it should. Guess I'll need to take another day's vacation and get to know my soldering iron REALLY well....

[Steve]

The front brake lever has two wires to trigger the brake light. Now I'm not an electrical engineer, but when one of those two wires is BROKEN IN HALF, I'm guessing the switch stops working.

I am not an electrical engineer, either, but I can assure you that you are correct.

The rear brake pedal apparently actuates a switch close to the rear diagonal of the frame that turns on the brake light. Best I can tell, there's a wire or some other such means of connection that is supposed to pull on the little nipple sticking out of the switch when the pedal is depressed. Apparently a PO didn't think it this linkage was at all necessary? The little nipple has a hole in it that had something hook through it as best I can tell. Now it has nothing.

Yep, there is a spring that goes there. The coiled spring itself isnt' all that long, but there are extensions on each end that will reach where they need to go. One end is, as you have found, in the little plunger in the switch. The other end should attach to the brake pedal. Look just inside where the brake pedal pivots through the frame, you will see a small tab sticking up, and there is a hole in the end of that tab. You can probably find a suitable spring in the assortment drawer at the hardware store.

So as soon as I can get the two small, stripped/rusted screws out of the front brake's housing I'm going to solder the wire back onto the switch board.

If that doesn't work, there are a couple of options available. A new switch is only about $10. The new switch includes EVERYTHING that is added to the master cylinder housing to make the brake light work: plastic tab that fits into the hole in the handle, spring, copper contact, circuit board with wires, housing and two screws. If you only want the circuit board, I have one at home, but won't be home for a couple of months.

In the meantime I'm going to dig up some parts fiches and try and figure out what piece I'm missing to work the rear brake/brake light linkage. If someone has a pic of it all they can send, I'd be much obliged.

Look at the parts fiche for your bike. In the "STAND" fiche, you will see the brake pedal. The inner part of that is item #13. The tab to which the spring attaches is directly over the 13 and rather hard to see. It is NOT the tab going to the rear where pin #17 goes through. Now look at the "WIRING HARNESS" fiche, the spring is #19.

Oh, and as for the "wiggle" problem, it's still there. Thankfully I have it packed into the headlight lunchbox pretty good and for the time being it's all working as it should. Guess I'll need to take another day's vacation and get to know my soldering iron REALLY well....

Just a few tips for proper soldering:
- CLEAN your connections
- Heat the work, not the solder
- More heat is NOT the answer
- Put the heat-shrink on FIRST



.

[Sojourner]

- Put the heat-shrink on FIRST

You'd be alarmed by the number of times that's happened. I haven't even bought the heat shrink tubing yet and I've already started the mantra of "Step 1, slide on the heat shrink...."

Turns out I do have the spring BTW. It's flopped over and laying on top of the bit it attaches to behind the brake pedal. So does the spring just loop through the eye of the plunger on the switch? Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll all work! Not holding my breath though.

And for $10, I'll just order a whole new front brake switch. Does it include the screws too?

[cowboyup3371]

Mine didn't include the screws but for another $1 at Ace Hardware you'll be okay there.

[Sojourner]

Look at the parts fiche for your bike. In the "STAND" fiche, you will see the brake pedal. The inner part of that is item #13. The tab to which the spring attaches is directly over the 13 and rather hard to see. It is NOT the tab going to the rear where pin #17 goes through. Now look at the "WIRING HARNESS" fiche, the spring is #19.
.

I don't have the spring after all. I have the #16 spring from stand fiche, and best I can tell it's hooked up as it should be. What I appear to be missing is the longer #19 spring that attaches to the #18 brake switch in the wiring harness fiche.

Can anyone take a pic or three and diagram where this spring is supposed to attach? I got one end goes into the switch, but where does the other end go?

Oh, and BTW, of course my battery was near dead this morning. I guess I need to double-check everything that we did for the Compufire and Rick's stator install. Battery finally gave up the ghost maybe?

[sedelen]

I couldn't find a wiring diagram in the service manual for the '80 GS1100ET but I did find one for the '81 GS1100EX, one year newer, believe to be basically the same bike. Page 13-23.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf

Chapter 11 covers troubleshooting and checking the electrical system for the '80 GS1100ET.

I do believe I found a wiring diagram in the owners manual for the '80 GS1100ET, page 66. Believe it to be an '80 because the owners manual is dated Nov 1979.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1100E_Owners_Manual.pdf

[Sojourner]

Ya, it's not really a wiring issue at this point. Well the front switch is wiring, but we know the root cause since on of the wires is obviously broken. The rear issue is the mechanical linkage that actuates the brake switch, namely the spring is missing, which pulls out the nipple on the switch to complete the circuit.

The spring is less than $3 from Power Sports Plus. The problem is that I have no idea what the other end of the spring hooks into. The brake switch nipple on the one end of the spring, but the other end goes where?

And the spring actually appear to be #12, not number #19 like I stated earlier. #19 is for a a side stand idiot light and my '80 doesn't have that. So I guess I'll be ordering #12 and a new front brake switch.

Fiche in question...

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1980/GS1100E/WIRING+HARNESS/parts.html

Anything else I'll need or need to check I have?

[sedelen]

Ya, it's not really a wiring issue at this point. Well the front switch is wiring, but we know the root cause since on of the wires is obviously broken. The rear issue is the mechanical linkage that actuates the brake switch, namely the spring is missing, which pulls out the nipple on the switch to complete the circuit.

The spring is less than $3 from Power Sports Plus. The problem is that I have no idea what the other end of the spring hooks into. The brake switch nipple on the one end of the spring, but the other end goes where?

And the spring actually appear to be #12, not number #19 like I stated earlier. #19 is for a a side stand idiot light and my '80 doesn't have that. So I guess I'll be ordering #12 and a new front brake switch.

Fiche in question...

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1980/GS1100E/WIRING+HARNESS/parts.html

Anything else I'll need or need to check I have?

It goes to one of three holes in your rear brake pedal assy. The hole closest to the front has a heavy spring which returns the pedal back to position. The 2nd from front (or back for that matter) otherwise the middle hole is for that brake light spring, and the back hole from the front goes to the master cylinder linkage.
Those holes are in item 13 of this fische, (it doesn't show 'em).

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95917&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2155

This pic which I took off E-bay clearly shows the holes, remember it's the "middle" hole. I tried to take a picture myself, batteries in camera are dead, I think my girlfriend likes to keep them that way

[Sojourner]

I think that's what's screwing me up. I'm going on memory here since I'm at work, but I believe the spring I do have is in the middle hole. The rear MC attaches via a pivot to the "3rd hole" (the one farthest back). There's the two holes forward of the pivot, and like I said, the short spring I do have is in one of those two. FWIW- The short, fat spring I have (~3") doesn't seem to be doing jack. Even with the pedal pulled it's not under tension. It appears that all of the return tension is provided by the rear MC.

SO- The back hole is the one used in the plunger/pivot to the rear MC. The front hole is the brake pedal return spring and is connected to a nipple on the frame. The middle hole should have the looooong spring in it, and the other end of the long spring goes to the nipple of the brakelight switch.

Sound right?

[sedelen]

I think that's what's screwing me up. I'm going on memory here since I'm at work, but I believe the spring I do have is in the middle hole. The rear MC attaches via a pivot to the "3rd hole" (the one farthest back). There's the two holes forward of the pivot, and like I said, the short spring I do have is in one of those two. FWIW- The short, fat spring I have (~3") doesn't seem to be doing jack. Even with the pedal pulled it's not under tension. It appears that all of the return tension is provided by the rear MC.

SO- The back hole is the one used in the plunger/pivot to the rear MC. The front hole is the brake pedal return spring and is connected to a nipple on the frame. The middle hole should have the looooong spring in it, and the other end of the long spring goes to the nipple of the brakelight switch.

Sound right?

What? Huh? Oh yeah, You nailed it!
I just checked my spring, return pedal spring, hard to measure but it seems to be about 2 inches long "unsprung." But I have a '82 GS1100EZ, I looked up the spring and it has the same part number as yours. Less than $2. Item no 17 in the '82's part fiche below or item 16 in the fiche I previously gave you.
Now basically the fische for the '82 is much clearer and you can see those holes on it.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95986&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2156

[sedelen]

I went back out and remeasured that spring, I said about 2" and it was indeed 2" or just shy of 2" from center of top of nipple on frame to bottom
of spring where it mates into hole. I have a fairly strong return back to the no brake position.
I do believe that can be adjusted somewhat by the bolt and lock nut which I believe to be items 21 & 22.
Also, item 13 is splined and that may not be in the proper position.
But if you have a 3" return spring I think that may be too long and I would think that is the problem.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95986&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2156