Firstly, make sure the ground for your ignitor is 100% good.
Measure the impedance (resistance on the multimeter) of each signal generator coil, they should be 60 - 80ohms each.
As the guys say you must have voltage on the orange/white wire of both coils *all the time* when the ignition and kill switch are on.
There are tests in the manuals for all of the above and also for the ignitor.
Given how difficult it is to find a good working ignitor for these, do the tests first, and if it proves the ignitor is faulty, then go the Dynatek DS3-3C route.
This will bolt straight in but when you buy it, ask for the spacer as well otherwise you will have the rotor flapping about on the bolt due to it being designed for the earlier points setups. They should know what you're talking about, tell them Pete from the GS Resources told you to get the spacer
You will need to run an oil pressure sensor wire in addition to this as it sits under the timing cover.
Also, make sure you run the Dynatek coils, the stock ones are a no go with it.
I found the harness on the Dynatek about 2 inches shorter than I'd like so I made a mini harness to join the coils, and the coils are also larger than stock so some creative routing is needed there.
Once she's up and running, do the charging system checks first thing to ensure you're not just going to overcharge and fail it all again...
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