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    ricks stator is junk

    bought mine not even 6 months ago....today it fried...anyone else have issues with ricks stuff? ill be replacing my ricks rr too

    #2
    i was a dealer for ricks..never a problem or return.

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      #3
      I believe it has a 1 year wty ?? Have you tested it ??

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        #4
        yea just get a hold of them ,I believe that they will replace it.
        1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
        80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
        1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
        83 gs750ed- first new purchase
        85 EX500- vintage track weapon
        1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
        “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
        If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

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          #5
          Pics? Btw replace your r/r with a Compufire and never worry about charging issues again. I was burning up stators every 1,000 miles and when I took a look at my ricks stator it was like brand new still.

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            #6
            my stator tested good...ive tried 2 r/r one for sure being good..just wont go past 12.8v idle or very low 13's at a high rev...but according to basscliff a stator can pass those 3 tests an still be defective

            how long does it take them to test an ship back...this is my only vehicle

            will a 81 gs 1000 stator work in my 81 850? my freind has a bike thats being built...if so i can use it for a while
            Last edited by Guest; 10-23-2012, 06:30 PM.

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              #7
              Did it ever do more than that?

              Did you remove the redundant "headlight" cable (the one that turns off one leg of the stator? - it's still there even though you don't have a switch.)

              Are all your connections in good shape?

              Do you have a really good ground at the RR including one going back to the battery direct?

              Check to make sure the Stator wires aren't chafed somewhere & grounding to the case...
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                Did it ever do more than that?

                Did you remove the redundant "headlight" cable (the one that turns off one leg of the stator? - it's still there even though you don't have a switch.)

                Are all your connections in good shape?

                Do you have a really good ground at the RR including one going back to the battery direct?

                Check to make sure the Stator wires aren't chafed somewhere & grounding to the case...

                yep its all wired right and good connections...only place i didnt look was under the starter cover...

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                  #9
                  i believe your 850 stator is smaller than a 1000/1100/1150 stator.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    and for the record...
                    i hate thread titles like...ricks/dynajet/ and so on is junk.
                    very misleading and more times than not...the statement is wrong.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Did you remove the redundant headlight cable? I had a couple of bike display similar (550 & a 1000G). One was bad ground to the RR, one was just that the redundant wire was putting in too much resistance to that stator leg.

                      I also had it on a 750 & that one was 1 dead stator leg.

                      How old is your battery?

                      I agree the title of this is unfortunate & probably not fair as Rick's will replace it if it's bad I'm sure..... They appear to be one of the better aftermarket stator sources available if you review all the comments here.

                      By the way - if you do a lot of 5K+ rev range work on the freeway etc you might benefit from a Series regulator. The guys that commute every day on the freeway (5k rpm) seem to go through stators more regularly than most & Posplayr posted a reason for this.... Lots of info on here.
                      Last edited by salty_monk; 10-23-2012, 08:50 PM.
                      1980 GS1000G - Sold
                      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                        Did you remove the redundant headlight cable? I had a couple of bike display similar (550 & a 1000G). One was bad ground to the RR, one was just that the redundant wire was putting in too much resistance to that stator leg.

                        I also had it on a 750 & that one was 1 dead stator leg.

                        How old is your battery?

                        I agree the title of this is unfortunate & probably not fair as Rick's will replace it if it's bad I'm sure..... They appear to be one of the better aftermarket stator sources available if you review all the comments here.

                        By the way - if you do a lot of 5K+ rev range work on the freeway etc you might benefit from a Series regulator. The guys that commute every day on the freeway (5k rpm) seem to go through stators more regularly than most & Posplayr posted a reason for this.... Lots of info on here.

                        yes i do run 5-6k down the highway...it just kinda ****ed me off a stator didnt last not even 8000 miles...im sending both my r/r and stator to them tommorow

                        is there anyway i can make the 1000 stator work on mine till i can get mine back?
                        Last edited by Guest; 10-23-2012, 09:11 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Did you do a no load AC voltage stator test after disconnecting the stator from the harness, and if so what were the results on each leg?

                          Did you plug the stator into the factory wire harness or rewire the bike to route the stator wires directly into the R/R (Salty_Monk's question)?

                          Did you add a ground for the R/R that goes directly to the battery or solid frame ground point?

                          How does power get from the R/R back to the battery? Did you run the R/R red power output wire into the factory harness or direct to the battery?
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                            Did you do a no load AC voltage stator test after disconnecting the stator from the harness, and if so what were the results on each leg?

                            Did you plug the stator into the factory wire harness or rewire the bike to route the stator wires directly into the R/R (Salty_Monk's question)?

                            Did you add a ground for the R/R that goes directly to the battery or solid frame ground point?

                            How does power get from the R/R back to the battery? Did you run the R/R red power output wire into the factory harness or direct to the battery?
                            yes at 4k rpm all 3 wires had 60v AC(roughly give or take a few)...i had a hard time keeping steady rev an testing it at the same time.

                            the 3 stator wires go directly to the r/r, in which the r/r positive goes to the battery with a inline fuse, and the ground goes directly to the battery.

                            battery is brand new ( about 9 hours old)...

                            also another question...can i run the bike only on the battery...just to get to the store and such...will it hurt the rotor for the stator or anything?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              low voltage can hurt electronics... like all the rest of the little modules and things on the bike.

                              Brian
                              Brian
                              _____________________________________________

                              82 GS1100E
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