Stator Prognosis Needed

[Gregory]

Boy now I am really confused.

There are corresponding wires to ALL of the wires shown-- except one yellow, and one white/blue from the stator/bike bundle.

These two were not connected to anything.

When original did these tie in somewhere? And what would it hurt to make it original again? Or just leave them unhooked?

BTW, Old Vet, Sunday is veterans day and Applebees hase Free meal for vets if they can show some kind of ID, and Red Lobster is giving away a free appetizer.

[OldVet66]

There was a separate regulator and a rectifier on the '78. That is why two of the wires split to go to each unit, yellow and white/blue. Newer R/R units are combined, so only one yellow and white/blue is needed because you don't have to connect to two modules anymore. If you read what I wrote, it accounts for all your wires, where they connect to now and explains that you should have a white/red and green/white left over that ran through the light switch. It is easier to explain on the phone, so If you want to PM me with your phone number, I'll be glad to call.

[Gregory]

I sure appreciate it. I guess the PO had already changed the R/R to a newer unit.

I think I am ok with the other wires since they all match up to the same colors on the other ends.

Other than the stator, do you have any idea what would cause my battery to only show 12.29 volts at idle AND at 4k RPMS?

[OldVet66]

He did, but it is still an older type R/R. The problem with that is in how the system works. When it has charged the battery, it still operates, but shunts through the stator. It is designed to expect a certain electrical load, so if doesn't have that load, it tends to burn the stator up. That is why they ran one stator leg through your headlight switch on the white/red and green/white wire to cut that leg off if the headlight was ever turned off. Just don't ever run the bike with the light off, or switch the R/R for a series type R/R that shuts off when it reaches charge instead of shunting through the stator.

[Gregory]

He did, but it is still an older type R/R. The problem with that is in how the system works. When it has charged the battery, it still operates, but shunts through the stator. It is designed to expect a certain electrical load, so if doesn't have that load, it tends to burn the stator up. That is why they ran one stator leg through your headlight switch on the white/red and green/white wire to cut that leg off if the headlight was ever turned off. Just don't ever run the bike with the light off, or switch the R/R for a series type R/R that shuts off when it reaches charge instead of shunting through the stator.

My apologies for being so dense about this, I guess this is above my comprehension level.

Why wouldnt hooking it up the original factory way (minus the extra Yellow and White/Blue) keep it working without burning up the stator?

I remember running my other 78 back in the 80's without the light.

[tom203]

Why wouldnt hooking it up the original factory way (minus the extra Yellow and White/Blue) keep it working without burning up the stator?

I remember running my other 78 back in the 80's without the light.

The factory wired your 78 so that the headlight switch openned one loop of the stator output when headlight was off- this dropped the stator output considerably,so less heat was generated.
If you run with headlight on ,best to follow oldvet66's advice and wire the stator direct to a decent R/R-

[Gregory]

ok, so, if I leave the extra yellow and white/blue disconnected.... AND I somehow accidentally turn the headlights off... how long till the stator fries?

AND other than the stator, do you have any idea what would cause my battery to only show 12.29 volts at idle AND at 4k RPMS?

[OldVet66]

That I couldn't tell you. I'm guessing it's not immediate. It's required by law to have it on all the time, so don't turn it off. Usually whatever beam you use most of the time goes first if it blows out (I always use the high beam in daylight), just switch to the other beam until you can get another replacement.

[tkent02]

If the bulb burns out in the daytime, and you don't notice, how soon will things fry?

I run my bike with the light off quite often, as dirt roads will break a hot filament much quicker than a cool one. Sometimes I do it for the stealth aspect, sometimes I just forget to turn it on. Because of this I always left the stator loop going throughout the light switch. I know a lot of you guys remove it, have any of you had a headlight burn out and take the rest of the system down with it?

[koolaid_kid]

ok, so, if I leave the extra yellow and white/blue disconnected.... AND I somehow accidentally turn the headlights off... how long till the stator fries?

AND other than the stator, do you have any idea what would cause my battery to only show 12.29 volts at idle AND at 4k RPMS?

Poor connections? Have you tested the R/R yet? What R/R is currently on the bike?

[Gregory]

[QUOTE=tkent02;1768556]Because of this I always left the stator loop going throughout the light switch... [QUOTE]

So on the end of the bundle near the battery, are the two yellows and two white/blue connected?

There may be instances when I may want the light off.... and another switch to turn the brake light off also. Lets say, when I'm off road.

[tom203]

[QUOTE=Gregory;1768575][QUOTE=tkent02;1768556]Because of this I always left the stator loop going throughout the light switch...

There may be instances when I may want the light off.... and another switch to turn the brake light off also. Lets say, when I'm off road.

Just use spade connectors joining the stator to R/R, that way if your headlight bulb burns out or you choose to run incognito, unplug one stator loop connector and you'll being doing the same thing the headlight switch did!

[qcktvr]

Hot / Cold filaments??

My first post to an existing thread.. In 1973-74 I worked in the engineering dept. of an automotive lighting company. We had a very noisy machine for vibration testing truck lights; there was certainly a difference between the life of a hot or cold filament, BUT it was the cold / off ones that failed way sooner; theory being that the filament was more ductile when hot, or more brittle when cold.
If you have a voltmeter and see it dropping below 13v or so. then losing your headlight can get you home, btdt with a Honda turbo..
Amazing some of the stupid stuff I remember, now what day is it??
Cheers

The 1150EF is ready for a ride tomorrow
Durham ON

[tom203]

Hey, you edited a post while I was typing! and my computer didn't like it.

Anyways, qcktvr said....."theory being that the filament was more ductile when hot, or more brittle when cold.
Amazing some of the stupid stuff I remember, now what day is it??"

That's my opinion too , and it's Saturday (I think)