Missing Fuse Box / Relay Question

[Guest]

I have a 78 750E and the starter does not work from the start button. While I was tracking down the problem I seen on the fiche from Boulevard electical section a fuse box that I don't have. It is number 12 here.





Was this just on later models?

Also if someone could confirm that the ohm reading on the starter relay should be above 3.5 I would appreciate it. The starter works when I jump the relay, continuity is good with all of the wiring up to the switch, and the switch seems to be fine. Pretty sure I need another relay. Your thoughts?

[Steve]

Before you condemn the relay (solenoid), do a couple of quick tests.

1. Pull the clutch lever and try to start the bike.

2. Put a test light or a voltmeter on the small wire that is soldered to the top of the solenoid. Push the starter button (pull clutch if necessary), do you have power there?

Not sure how long you have had your bike or if you have ever had it running, but many new guys don't know that you have to pull the clutch to activate the starter. Yes, you have to do that even if it's in neutral.

If you don't have a "start" signal to the solenoid, it's not the solenoid's fault that it doesn't work. Your fusebox (which should be under the left side panel) will have an IGNITION fuse. Power from there goes to the right handlebar switch, through the "kill" switch, to the starter button, through the clutch switch on the left handlebar and finally to the solenoid. If you don't have power at the solenoid, you can work backward until you find it or start at the fusebox, follow the path and see where you lose it.

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[allojohn]

I have a 78 750E and the starter does not work from the start button. While I was tracking down the problem I seen on the fiche from Boulevard electical section a fuse box that I don't have. It is number 12 here.





Was this just on later models?

You are correct, you have no fusebox. There is just one 10 amp fuse. Also, you do not need to pull in the clutch to activate the starter. Not on this model Steve .
Is your kill switch on?

[wedoo2]

Does the old axiom apply that if the solenoid clicks it works? I haven't pitched the thing yet, I plan on putting the airbox back on tomorrow and hook up some gas to see if I can get it running again. It ran before I started tearing it down a couple of months ago.

I knew that some bikes need to have the clutch pulled in to start them and I looked through the shop and owners manuals to see if it was mentioned, but didn't find anything. I did try that once I got the clutch hooked back up, but nothing. If I get it going with the kickstarter then I'll investigate further. Don't know how to test the kill switch other than continuity. It is in the correct position.

Thanks for the help guys, I let you know how things progress.

[Steve]

Does the old axiom apply that if the solenoid clicks it works?

No, that just tells you that the coil that engages it is still intact.

If you have a test light or a meter, place it on the large solenoid terminal that goes to the battery. Now hit the starter so the solenoid clicks, see if you have power at the output terminal. It is possible to have a good coil, but burnt contacts.

Don't know how to test the kill switch other than continuity. It is in the correct position.

A continuity check is sufficient. Put your test light or meter lead on the orange wire at the coil, turn the key ON. If you have power at the coil, your kill switch is good.

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