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    #16
    Originally posted by bill671mac View Post
    It was with the caps.
    So, you checked the coils secondary resitance with the caps on, and one coil was "way off".
    So like I asked before... "Way off" high or "way off" low?
    If way off high, it could be a cap is bad. Actaully I would say more likley the cap than the coil.
    THe caps can be removed. Just twist, unscreww actaully while pulling it off the wire.
    Caps can be tested individually, should be about 5K ohms. (so if inplace yet that is about 10K of the 25K the book says, eh.)
    If a cap goes bad, it will go way high and then completly open.
    Only cost about 5 bucks each to replace. Inside two are different than outside two.
    So 20 bucks for all four is sure a lot less than completly replacing the entire ignition system, eh.

    If secondary is way off low, then suspect the coil.

    Originally posted by bill671mac View Post
    Ok guys, I tested the compression. #1-75 psi, #2-80 psi, #3-80 psi, #4-100 psi. ......
    ............
    That compression is not good, is quite low and uneven, but probably isnt why it was running for recent months and all last year and then one day it dies on side of road, and cant get it started again.

    .
    Last edited by Redman; 01-24-2013, 05:44 PM.
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      #17
      Redman, I took the caps off and tested them one by one. 3 of the 4 read 9.85-11.95K. The 4th one was messed up. It would read 326k to 13.85k. check after check was the same. Even went back over the others and they were all consistent. With plugs off, coils read 12.09-11.90K. With Caps back on that same messed up plug was giving high and low numbers, the other coil was good. Will get new plugs and possibly new coils just because. But just one plug being bad shouldn't kill the bike I wouldnt think. With the electrical system checking out ok I'm thinking about going back and looking at the fuel system again. I know fuel is getting to all the float bowls. I took the carbs apart and all looked good but I guess I will play with it a bit more. Maybe the o-rings for the intake went bad? Not likely im sure but im running out of trouble shooting. If it wasnt 15 degress F out this would be alot easier.

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        #18
        I wouldn't replace the coils just yet. What I would do is trim the coil wires back about 1/2 inch. They tend to get corroded over time. Then install the new caps and retest.

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          #19
          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
          Just run it. You obviously have plenty of compression for that, as it was running fine before..
          The rings will eventually fix themselves. Or maybe they won't. It doesn't matter.

          Did you find out why it quit running yet?
          I could just run it. But knowing the compression numbers in the back of my head, It will drive me nuts. I'm not looking forward to the task but atleast it will be done and over with. Plus it will give me a project for the winter months. Just hope I don't find find something in there I don't want to see.

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            #20
            Originally posted by azr View Post
            While you're in there you might want to check the voltage getting to your coils and do the coil mod if it's below 11 amps that way your new coils will be firing red hot.
            It's even more important if they are below 11 VOLTS.



            Originally posted by bill671mac View Post
            Ok guys, I tested the compression. #1-75 psi, #2-80 psi, #3-80 psi, #4-100 psi. Manual says standard is 113.78-170.64 psi. Limit of 99.5 psi. Added a cap full of oil to each cyclinder and they all went up by 15-25psi. telling me the rings are bad.
            Was the engine cold or warm?

            Were the throttles open or closed?

            Those suggested readings in the manual are with a fully-warmed engine and the throttles wide open.

            .
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              #21
              Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
              I wouldn't replace the coils just yet. What I would do is trim the coil wires back about 1/2 inch. They tend to get corroded over time. Then install the new caps and retest.
              That had crossed my mind, but the wiring is so old and badly cracked. Its all original. But you know I will Try that anyway and maybe save a few bucks.

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                #22
                Originally posted by bill671mac View Post
                That had crossed my mind, but the wiring is so old and badly cracked. Its all original. But you know I will Try that anyway and maybe save a few bucks.
                Umm, which wiring is old and cracked? If it is the high tension wires, replace them, they probably are leaking. Members have dug them out; they are epoxied in. Then replaced them. Of course, the best way to do coils on our bikes is the Dyna green coils and the Dyna wires in your favorite flavour.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  It's even more important if they are below 11 VOLTS.




                  Was the engine cold or warm?

                  Were the throttles open or closed?

                  Those suggested readings in the manual are with a fully-warmed engine and the throttles wide open.

                  .
                  The carbs are completly off the bike so no need for throttle to be wide open. The bike doesnt run thus all the trouble shooting. Its was about 17 degrees F outside when I did the test. However I called a shop near by and they said to add 5% to those numbers because the engine was cold. I do understand that I could have talked to a guy that was new to the business. So I am open to other ideas. If you think i'm wrong with something I did then please reply. I will look into it. Thank you.

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