Remove Gauge Cluster & PO wiring funniness

[Guest]

I am removing my cluster gauge to replace the speedo with a mini unit.
I read Mr.papaTOJO's post by the same name as mine, and Mr.Big Rich said the turns won't work, but Mr.ChicagoBob says they will.

1. SO, I'm using the colored wiring diagram to work out the turn signal flashers because they will stay on but not blink (Mr.Big Rich was right). I thought it was the orange wire being taken out of the loop to the starter relay, but I'm not sure. Why are my blinkers not blinking, but just staying on? Any help here would be great.

2. THEN, I came across this problem with a red wire (near left side airbox traveling up near right side coil):



I have a dyna s ignition and out of it comes 4 wires: black, white, 2 reds.
The problem is that the PO took the two red wires, combined them...



... and ran the new 1 red wire up under the tank and attached it to the orange wire on the loom side of the connector. PO removed some insulation, soldered the red wire to the orange and wrapped it in electrical tape. Why would someone do this?

[cowboyup3371]

Are they grounded properly?

That last picture looks like a p!ss poor repair job.

[nikosg]

my indicators dont flash if i dont ground the grounding wires... have you grounded them?
i think it means there is just not enough resistance in the circuit or it is shorting?

just tell the cops they are blinking at extreme velocity, much to fast for the human eye! Or like me for the last 6 weeks, manually using the switch to "blink" lol

[Steve]

1. SO, I'm using the colored wiring diagram to work out the turn signal flashers because they will stay on but not blink (Mr.Big Rich was right). I thought it was the orange wire being taken out of the loop to the starter relay, but I'm not sure. Why are my blinkers not blinking, but just staying on? Any help here would be great.

Do you have stock turn signals? If you still have stock signals, you may have a bad flasher unit.
If you have replaced the signals, it's quite possible that the bulbs do not draw enough current to trigger the thermal properties of the stock flasher. You will need to replace the flasher.

What bike is this on? There is no hint of it in your signature, nor is it mentioned in your post.
If your bike has aut0-cancelling turn signals, you will lose that feature if you change to an aftermarket turn signal flasher.

2. THEN, I came across this problem with a red wire (near left side airbox traveling up near right side coil): I have a dyna s ignition and out of it comes 4 wires: black, white, 2 reds.
The problem is that the PO took the two red wires, combined them and ran the new 1 red wire up under the tank and attached it to the orange wire on the loom side of the connector. PO removed some insulation, soldered the red wire to the orange and wrapped it in electrical tape. Why would someone do this?

I have never played with a Dyna, so I'm going to guess here.
The stock signal pickups use black and white wires for triggers. It is therefore possible that the two reds are for supplying power. They both need power, why not get that power from the same point? The orange wire happens to be the "dead" side of the ignition swith, on its run to the fuse box to power the other three fuses, so it's a perfect wire for supply, but will require a fuse, which happens to be shown in the line.

.

[mmaurin]

everything worked when i parked it yesterday...
all of the grounds are secure...

and yes the PO did a real bang up job on the splice

[mmaurin]

1. i have after market turn signals. the black and black/white wires come out and are connected sufficiently... i am using bullet connectors between the blacks and black/whites and tucking them into the headlight bucket
if the signals were working for a couple months, would that change at any point in terms of the current draw of the bulbs?


2. thanks steve... ill just clean that connection up then... where should that red wire be connected? i can't see it in the wiring diagram...

[Agemax]

that is the correct wiring for the dyna s ignition, 2 reds from the pick ups join to a connector (NOT a fuse) then the single red wire splices in to the orange wire from the ignition switch. it is fused by the main ignition fuse in the fuse box

[mmaurin]

great thanks
so i just need to clean it up...

[Agemax]

great thanks
so i just need to clean it up...

yep clean up the connection, solder it if you can and insulate it well. use heat shrink if you have it

[mmaurin]

how do you heat shrink a wire that is connected to the plastic junction on one side and goes into the loom on the other?

[Agemax]

how do you heat shrink a wire that is connected to the plastic junction on one side and goes into the loom on the other?

i would cut the red wire just before the soldered joint, then cut the orange wire on the loom. strip the insulation on red and orange wire, twist and solder, slip over a piece of heatshrink then solder the red/orange to the other orange wire on the loom. then you can slide over the heat shrink over the entire connection

[mmaurin]

so now that the red wire mystery is solved...

what am i missing about the turn signal wiring? out of the turn signal switch there are three wires. removing the gauge cluster may/may not have interrupted the light green and black circuits... the light blue circuit is outside of the connections that I took out off when removing the gauges

[Crankthat]

Have any epoxy around?
If you cannot heat shrink it put some epoxy or something similar on it.

[mmaurin]

i took all of the ground (black-white), from the loom and from the aftermarket turn signals and tied them all together with a wire nut and electric tape.
im not sure why this didnt work with the left black-whites tied together and the right black-whites together...
now its great...
thanks nikosg for the tip!

PROBLEMS SOLVED... thanks