Stator & R/R fitting :s

[Guest]

Hey guys,

just wanted to consult you all for some help with this mess of wiring i have.

From Basscliffs guides i thought the stator wires connect directly to the R/R, now when im trying to diagnose the way its currently set up -

the stator wires seem to lead to some completely separate bunch of wires

As do the R/R wires, which lead to this little connector and then into a separate wiring loom.

Is this just a bad job by a PO?! Im not really sure how to approach this - or maybe im missing something completely obvious....

1st image shows R/R wires leading into that little connector.
2nd images shows Stator wires going into its own separate harness...

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Feel free to clean up that wiring according to the r/r replacement guide and the stator replacement guide on my little website. You can replace that big molex connector and the bullet connectors with some blade connectors. Yes, the stator connects directly to the r/r unit. Use this diagram.



The above is for a "upgrade" 6-wire Honda r/r unit. Have you taken time to read the entire "Stator Papers"? It explains the difference between "all yellow" and the different color wire used on the original Suzuki charging systems. You can also do away with the useless loop of wire that goes up to the handlebars to a non-existent headlight switch, as explained in the r/r replacement guide.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[nikosg]

yeh ive read your brilliant guides and tutorials
but looking at this still is a little boggling for me lol

so are those wires coming out of that connector actually going to the stator wires somewhere through those other harnesses?


Yes my new unit is a 5 wire Shindengen, the FH020AA unit.

My bike actually does have a light switch lol to add to the mix.

[tom203]

Those wires wind up in headlight switch and make return trip.Follow Basscliff's advice and wire your 3 stator wires direct to Shindengen R/R. Your headlight on/off will still work correctly (mine does), but remember that if you now run with headlight off for long periods, your charging output MIGHT be too high- depends on R/R.

[nikosg]

The R/R automatically switches itself off when the voltage gets too high
paid big bucks for that sh*t hahah
Thanks for that tip!

So should i do a large transplant or can i just seal the ends of some of the wires so i dont have to take apart the harness?

[Steve]

Not sure what all you are trying to accomplish here, but you should at least clean all the connectors and smear some dielectric grease on them when you put them back together.

Your second picture shows your stator wires connecting to "the harness". That is just fine. Over here, we do not have the option of turning the headlight OFF, so we tend to bypass the part of the harness that routes one of the stator wires up toward the now-missing headlight switch then brings it back. Since you still have an operating headlight switch, I would suggest that you clean the connections and leave the wiring intact.

The four-wire connector going to your R/R is stock, and is just fine. The three white wires with different-colored stripes are the input lines, the larger red wire is your output to the battery and bike. There will be a separate black/white wire for ground, make sure that is firmly connected to a good ground (or directly to the battery) and you will be good to go.

.

[tom203]

The R/R automatically switches itself off when the voltage gets too high
paid big bucks for that sh*t hahah

Hmm- I'm not sure about this.... unless you mean the following (from google)

'In addition, this rectifier has overheat protection, rather than burn up it will simply turn off for a while and cool off."

The FH-0022 is designed for a large output stator- much bigger than your 81 stator- your stator might be BBQ long before this R/R reached shutdown. Another R/R unit ,the SH-775 , apparently open circuits the stator windings to protect itself and the stator- a much better technique probably similar to Compufire's R/R.

[nikosg]

Not sure what all you are trying to accomplish here, but you should at least clean all the connectors and smear some dielectric grease on them when you put them back together.

Your second picture shows your stator wires connecting to "the harness". That is just fine. Over here, we do not have the option of turning the headlight OFF, so we tend to bypass the part of the harness that routes one of the stator wires up toward the now-missing headlight switch then brings it back. Since you still have an operating headlight switch, I would suggest that you clean the connections and leave the wiring intact.

The four-wire connector going to your R/R is stock, and is just fine. The three white wires with different-colored stripes are the input lines, the larger red wire is your output to the battery and bike. There will be a separate black/white wire for ground, make sure that is firmly connected to a good ground (or directly to the battery) and you will be good to go.

.

Thanks for your comment Steve. Much appreciated.

Im just a little confused about wiring in my new R/R into this setup, as the wiring scheme shows the three leads connecting with the stator, then it shows a positive terminal connecting with the +ve side of the battery through a fuse , and a negative going to the -ve batter terminal directly.

[kdo58]

http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20Videos.htm

[nikosg]

You are a god-send!!!
Thankyou

But why cant this gimp pronounce 'soldering'?! the L is not silent lol you americans :P

[nikosg]

UPDATE::

Ok so ive installed everything and wrapped up quite a few wires. Light switch still works

Bike is idling around 14.3ish volts and only goes up to maybe 14.5/6 when revving which seems ok according to the stator papers... is the idle a little high though? :s

Also another question about wiring; is it ok to connect the stator wires (14gauge?) to 10gauge wires that go to R/R? I didnt think twice about it as the R/R kit came with a fair length of 10 gauge quality wire so i used that between the battery, and also to the stator wires... is this a no-no?

[koolaid_kid]

Your voltages are fine.
"Most" stators use 18 gauge wire, "most" R/R units use 16 gauge wires. Not sure about yours, of course. Connecting different gauges together is not a problem.
Hopefully you put an in-line fuse between the red +12V output of the R/R and the battery +12V terminal.

The "l" is silent in soldering, btw.

[nikosg]

Your voltages are fine.
"Most" stators use 18 gauge wire, "most" R/R units use 16 gauge wires. Not sure about yours, of course. Connecting different gauges together is not a problem.
Hopefully you put an in-line fuse between the red +12V output of the R/R and the battery +12V terminal.

The "l" is silent in soldering, btw.

Thanks mate!!!

Yeh a big maxi fuse is sitting between there dont you worry.