82 GS550LZ Problems

[Gottiz]

Hello All and happy browsing,

As the title suggests I have an 82 GS550. The bike started giving me problems a few years ago so I set it aside with the intention to work on it. That went by the wayside when I bought my 09 Yamaha R6. So then the bike sat for about 5 years without running. Yes my friends, asking for disaster.

So I've started working on it again and here are my problems. I'm hoping someone has come across this problem before and can guide me to fixing this.

Starting out the the bike wouldn't start at all not even a hopeful pop. I checked the coils, I checked the signal generator, I checked the spark plugs and I was getting a fairly weak spark. I checked the voltage going to the coils and it was about 9 or 10 volts on a fully charged battery. I connected a wire from the battery to the coils to get the full 12 that the system called for. Still did not start but now I had a nice blue arching spark. In troubleshooting i reversed the plug wires and the bike started, but the motor immediately spun up to around 6,000 RPM. This lead me to believe that it was the CDI that was causing the problems. So I bought one from a 1980 and retrofit it to fit an 82 Harness. I put the plugs back into the correct order and started the bike.

It still reved up to around 6 to 7k on the tach. When I give it gas it starts to sputter out and die. I went through the carbs and rebuilt them with new needles and seals. Thinking that was the problem in the beginning. I've also tried spraying starter fluid while it's running to see if it was a vacuum leak. The motor sound did not change.

On an 82 I thought that the timing was fixed, there is a little play in the signal generator about 1/8 of an inch of rotation that i can do.

I uploaded a picture of the signal generator, and was going to upload more pictures of the CDI and the springs behind the signal generator but I s'pose one is the maximum

Anyone have any ideas?

Anyone have any suggestions?

[tom203]

I doubt this is an ignitor problem ( P.S.you don't have a CDI ignition). Sounds like the "choke" circuit is not shutting off, so revs take off. Your bike sat idle for a long time, when/how you cleaned carbs did you remove the choke plungers and check them for proper operation ? My bike's choke circuit at wide open will let revs go easily to 5k.
Yes, your timing is basically fixed, but those little springs behind signal generator plate advance the timing about 30 degrees more by 3k.

[Gottiz]

I doubt this is an ignitor problem ( P.S.you don't have a CDI ignition). Sounds like the "choke" circuit is not shutting off, so revs take off. Your bike sat idle for a long time, when/how you cleaned carbs did you remove the choke plungers and check them for proper operation ? My bike's choke circuit at wide open will let revs go easily to 5k.
Yes, your timing is basically fixed, but those little springs behind signal generator plate advance the timing about 30 degrees more by 3k.

I did not check the choke circuit! You're absolutely right. I thought that 82 was the first year for the CDI Ignition? let me check that and get back to you!

[koolaid_kid]

What tom failed to include is that it is electronic ignition, not CDI. For most GSs 1980 was the first year for electronic ignition. 82 may have been the first year for electronic advance on some models, but others still had the mechanical advance, which has a pair of springs connected to small plates, located on the end of the crankshaft.

[mike_of_bbg]

On the 550s, 80-82 used mechanical advance with similar igniters. AFAIK they are compatible but the wiring is a little different, particularly the ground lead. I sent the igniter from my 82 to a member with an 80 for troubleshooting and he got it to work. 83-86 had electronic advance. 70s models used points.

A few other models started to see electronic advance before the 550s. I'm pretty sure the 650s still had mechanical advance in 83.

Choke stuck on or just too open at idle would be my first guesses. Under no load, it doesn't take much air at all to get a lot of revs.

[koolaid_kid]

My 83 1100E had a mechanical advance, but the L models already had electronic advances.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Gottiz,

What a 30 year old neglected bike needs is all the proper maintenance done correctly. You'll find most of the information you need in the links below. I stress proper maintenance done correctly. Skipping any steps, taking any shortcuts, or otherwise deviating from the well-established maintenance procedures outlined below will cause frustration at least, and physical harm at worse. Now enjoy your S.W.A.G.

If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, diagrams, "how-to" guides, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Gottiz]

Thank you BassCliff for the Mountain of knowledge you just dropped on me. I'm going to rebuild the carbs again according to your specs and i have gone through most of the bike by testing. Once i have it running I will address things such as brake maintenance and general over all maintenance before deeming it road worthy.

I really just have one other question for you. That would be do you have any tips on removing the carburetors without damaging them or cussing for two weeks straight? These carbs are by far the worst carbs I have ever taken out of a bike lol.

[Gottiz]

OH yeah! I forgot to mention that in the beginning the bike lacked an air box and filters which I have dutifully put in and made sure that they seal well. So I am headed in the right direction!

[mike_of_bbg]

Did you dutifully install a stock air box and filter set, or pods?

Yeah, the carbs on 550s (and 650s I've heard) in particular are quite a bit of fun. You can unclip the front end of the rear fender, and that may get you an extra 1/4" or so to slide the air box back (assuming you have the stock air box). Not much, but it does make a difference. I pull the carbs out of the head boots first, then rotate the front side up. Disconnect the throttle and choke, move the clutch cable out of the way past #4, and slide them out to the right. Supple new boots really help a lot, as does a very thin smear of rubber-safe grease on the inside of the boots.

[Redman]

....
...........
................ I went through the carbs and rebuilt them with new needles and seals. Thinking that was the problem in the beginning. I've also tried spraying starter fluid while it's running to see if it was a vacuum leak. .....
.....

Seals for the needles? or all the o-rings?
I was thinking that after sitting for 5 years that probably need to replace all the o-rings, more than any needle or jet.

Good that you improved the voltage to the coils. VOltage drop could be in ignition swtich, or the main power lead to the ignition switch (where R/R output ties in). Running that power wire directlyh to coils was a good test, and some folks use a relay contact to do just that (called "coil relay mod".).

Oh, Welcome to GSR.
Goto UserCP. Put your general location in profile, and put bike year and model in signature line. THen that shows up in every post.

.

[Gottiz]

I changed out the o-rings too. I've can unbolt the airbox and slide it back but the real problem is that the intake manifold is to wide and get's stuck on the frame. So it only pulls back so far :\.

I took your advice and updated my location Redman. I'm in sunny Tucson 72 Degrees at the moment The bike was already in the signature line it's the 82 550lz

Mike, it is all stock now.. and it's such a pain to get the carbs out.. I may end up unbolting the boots from the motor to see if that will help by giving me the space i need to maneuver. How I'm willing to bet the had to put the motor in last to get these carbs in at the factory. because Jimmy Christmas you have to have a love for the machine to work on this thing.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, as has been mentioned, it is sometimes easier to loosen up the rear fender to get a little extra room to slide the airbox back. Then remove the carbs before removing the air box. Reverse the order when reassembling. It's not that difficult with my 850. But hopefully a 550 owner will chime in or you can search the forum for a proper description. I'm sure I've read about this procedure before. Hint: search "Titles Only" for "airbox removal". Reference: How To Search The GSR Forum.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[cowboyup3371]

You're right it does get stuck but it's enough that you can angle the rear of the carbs up to pull out from the intake boots and then slide out the right side of the bike. Takes some doing and real little ears shouldn't be around as you are doing it.