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Getting my soldered killswitch to work

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bonehead
  • Start date Start date
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Bonehead

Guest
So I tested the other day with a fully charged and brand new battery, the bike turned over quite strong but my killswitch did not work. Now, since I am the type to not waste money I want to make it work. It has the 82 (OEM from my bike) 6-pin connection on it now from my previous endeavor.

Here are the Wire colors from the switch:
Grn/yellow-Starter button
Orange/white#1- starter button
Solid Orange-Off/Run switch
White/Orange#2- Off/run switch

Here's the wiring I connected so someone with much more knowledge can help me out:
Wire from killswitch>OEM 6Pin connector

Grn/yellow>Grn/yellow bullet (I hope I got this one right :rolleyes:)
Orange/white#1 & #2> Orange/White #1(From the connector)
Solid Orange>Orange/White #2(from the connector)

I really hope that all I have to do is switch the 2 orange and orange/white wires. I will try that anyways in the next couple days since this is all I have to work on for now.


Now, here is how the switch stands as I type:
photo_zps1faa0e69.jpg
 
Power goes from key switch to kill switch (likely the solid orange wire); then it "can" pass thru kill switch (likely an orange/white wire) to feed the starter button and also the ignition coils and ignitor.
 
Well, I have this weird feeling when I soldered the killswitch to the 6-pin I mixed up the 2 Orange/white wires on the connector and soldered the power (Solid orange, you were right :)) to the wrong white/orange connector :-k so I just switched them. I covered them in shrink tubing as well, so I hope my reasoning/reading of the wiring diagram is right :pray:

Edit: I re-read your post and it makes complete sense to me now. When I jumped it, I tested the spark plugs to see if it was getting spark and there was nothing there. So, I think I did the right thing. *Fingers crossed*
 
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