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Rotor Removal - 1983 GS100E

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    Rotor Removal - 1983 GS100E

    I need to repair my starter clutch(aka Sprag Gear) on my GS1100E.

    So I did what I thought was the right thing, and bought myself a removal tool.

    But no matter what I do, the rortor will not come off. I have hit it with my air gun repeatedly, and it will not budge. I tried heat(a propane torch for about five minutes time), I tried PB Blaster as well. Still no joy.

    Is there a secret to removing the rotor? Do I need a bigger air gun? Do I need to hire the incredible hulk?

    Thanks so much for reading my post. I am at my wits end.

    #2
    tighten the puller up as tight as you can get it, then give it a good whack on the end with a BFH. do not use to much heat. tighten a bit more,whack it again. do it a few times then get your impact gun on it.(make sure the gun is set to do up, and not undo!)
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    Comment


      #3
      BFH? Blunt force hammer?
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
        BFH? Blunt force hammer?
        That is the most polite term I have heard for it........

        Adrian was using anglo-saxon language.
        79 GS1000S
        79 GS1000S (another one)
        80 GSX750
        80 GS550
        80 CB650 cafe racer
        75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
        75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

        Comment


          #5
          Depending upon whether you have a big guy avaliable here are my suggestions having done the same a few times:
          • Use MAP gas not propane. It is hotter and will help concentrate the heat rather than a longer heating period that gets magnets hotter
          • Heat the end of the rotor only (watch for the rotor magnets).
          • Use two large breakers, one under your feet the other using both arms (like a dead lift) this works better than two people
          • I have ruined my puller tool and had to rework it with a larger bolt.
          • Trust it really is a Biatch but it will come off.


          This is the tool I stripped and reworked for a larger bolt.

          Last edited by posplayr; 02-19-2013, 03:44 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
            That is the most polite term I have heard for it........

            Adrian was using anglo-saxon language.
            Oh duh........
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              BFH? Blunt force hammer?
              Big Friendly Hampshirehog
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #8
                Great advice. I was totally worried about heating the magnets up, so I am glad that was mentioned. This is so hard.

                And to add insult to injury, when I hit the bolt with a BFH, it deformed a bit, making the socket hard to get on or off.

                I am so p*ssed off at this point.

                I think I may try using leverage in the form of big pipes over the end of my wrenches.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Got it!!! You guys are the best!! Heat, combined with a BFH did the job.

                  I can't believe it, all three bolts were sheared off. Is this common? Now do I have to use the factory bolts, or can I pick them up at the local harware store?

                  Also, would drilling be the best way to get the snapped off pieces out of the rotor?

                  I really appreciate all the help. This board rocks!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I would use Suzuki parts.
                    Try a reverse drill bit to get them out.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment

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