Getting ready to dump in trash

[chuck hahn]

Mike...did you read the posts where he said the seats had been squished and are deformed from pulling on them with pliers? I would replace them with known good ones. I doesnt take much for the needles to hang up just a few thousands and cause carb flooding...which transfers to the engine being flooded like it is doing.

Once they get even a little out of round, the needles can jam up..even if they go in when you assemble the they still move around and twist inside the seats and can rejam themselves. Sadly the only way to fix them is to spend the money on good ones. I bet the $9.00 ones I posted from Ebay will be just fine...so he can get all 4 seat for just $36.00. You said you had an oring kit...which is like $21.00, so I can redo them for him for around $50.00 in parts and his shipping cost.

I have a ton of needles , so thats not a biggy as far as that goes..I just dont have any CV carb seats.

[mike_of_bbg]

I understand, Chuck. Just pointing out a cheaper alternative than the Suzuki dealer for new seats and needles, if needed. If the seat cannot seal in its bore in the carb, that's just going to bypass the needle/seat seal anyway. No others in my parts box so it looks like just one set, but you're welcome to it if needed.

[chuck hahn]

I thought of Oring bypass too, but he said in one post he had all new orings.

We have been thru everything that can be thought of but still there is an overflow of fuel from somewhere..and without them in hand its hard to "see" what is and isnt happening. Thats the frustrating part for me.


I agree on the stealership being a last source of good used can be had..thus my search for them on Ebay for him. I got a kick starter shaft seal locally for 5.95 for the TX project and Yamaha wanted 12.95 plus shipping costs!!

[myown550]

CHUCK MIKE guys i did it I DID IT!! sHE runs now oh man she runs good!! oK Hold on i'll be right back let me unplug the charger and i will tell you what i did. oh man im so excited

[myown550]

Guys she starts on first push!! Oh man ok so i pulled the carbs out and there's a guy that was selling parts from a low mileage 750L so i got in touch went there and he had all seats and needles in perfects shape. I even got the floats cause they were set and he said it ran perfect. Ok so i changed them with mine i left the floats as they were but i did measure the height and it was around 23-24mm +/-. Then i set the mixture to 1 3/4 out ran carb clean thru all jets again and closed them. Ok so i put them back on i try and still nothing. So then Chuck i did the auxiliary fuel feed you mentioned twice in earlier post i poured fuel down and it fired right up. Ok so now im not sure if it was the carbs or the vacuum?

[myown550]

she starts on first push guys, i recconected the petcock vacuum line and its working good so it was the seats with the needles. Man i can't thank you guys enough! #4 took a few minutes to kick in but now she runs good.

[mike_of_bbg]

That's awesome. Congratulations!

[chuck hahn]

IF you ever remove the seats again, don t use pliers and grab them from the top as you twist. Get around the outside and gently squeeze, twist and lever them up.. And as Mike had mentioned...good dose of grease or vaseline around the orings will aid in their removal at a later time.

Glad you got it sorted. After everything was gone thru and eliminated it sort of seemed the fuel deliver had a glitch to me. Glad you dont have to haul her to the dump..LMAO.

[chuck hahn]

Now do this...set the screw out another 1/8 turn..should now be about 1 7/8. Put new plugs in her and ride it a while. Then after say 100 miles or so, pull the plugs and see what they look like under your normal driving situation.


Yeah yeah yeah on all that plug chops and etc etc. If the plugs look good and NOT ashy grey/white and not sooty black..but somewhere in between your about right.

[myown550]

Ok I installed new ngk plugs and called it a day I will adjust the mixture like you say tomorrow. One thing I noticed on my seats whenever I flipped the carbs upside down the needles never really came down to touching the floats and on the ones I installed today they do. My guess is I had damaged the seats. Thanks for being me with me since day one Chuck. Ill let you know after I adjust the pilots.

[chuck hahn]

You are correct...the pins on the needles must stay in contact with the float flange thru its entire range of motion.

[myown550]

Bike is running great and starts right away also. The only thing is the #4 cilynder takes a few minutes to kick in not sure if i should leave it like that or do something about it. My oil leak returned but its not from the seal behind the front sprocket it leaks from the seal where the shift rod goes into the engine. Im ordering a new today i hope i will be able to install it it looks pretty simple tho.

[chuck hahn]

That one carb may be slightly different than the others and the float level may need tweeked. LOWER the float height by a MM.This will allow the bowl to fill slightly higher and thus it will be able to sip fuel at the same time AND rate as the other 3 carbs are doing.

May as well flood the passages with lots of carb spray and air again while its off...just to be sure they are clear.

[mvalenti]

That one carb may be slightly different than the others and the float level may need tweeked. LOWER the float height by a MM.This will allow the bowl to fill slightly higher and thus it will be able to sip fuel at the same time AND rate as the other 3 carbs are doing.

May as well flood the passages with lots of carb spray and air again while its off...just to be sure they are clear.

this is where that external float tool-a-ma-bob would come in handy right?

[chuck hahn]

Yes...one can easily be made out of some fish tank airation hose and a fine tip pen. Make three marks each 1MM apart. Hold the middle mark right at the seam between the carb bowl and the body as depicted in the manual pictures. Set each float per the manuals specs.