1982 GS1100GL ignition questions.

[Guest]

A while back, my electrical system suddenly decided to increase it's voltage enough to burn out bulbs and shut the bike down. I've replaced the stator and will be replacing the regulator rectifier and other stuff.

Since the cost of a new stock CDI box is so high (I saw from about $520 and up), I have found used ones on Ebay for decent prices. However, for about halfway between the cost of a used stock CDI box and a new one, I can get a Dyna 2000 ignition ($309 from Ebay). I already have Dyna 3 ohm green coils.

Questions:

(1) Is the Dyna 2000 worth buying?

(2) Is the Dyna 2000 as reliable/durable as the stock ignition?

(3) Are the Dyna 3 ohm green coils compatible with both the stock ignition and the Dyna 2000? The manual thatI downloaded says the primary side of stock coils should read approximately 3 to 5 ohms. So is it safe to assume that they are compatible with the stock ignition if I decide to stay stock?

(4) In order to install the Dyna ignition, I need to get the metric Allen head bolt loose that screws into the right side end of the crank that holds on the stock ignitor rotor. But the bolt won't budge, and the head was already wallowed out, and I can't get it out without wallowing it out more. Can I heat the bolt head with a propane torch, then spray it with Blaster, heating and spraying back and forth several times to get it to release without damaging anything with the heat? Or if I carefully drill the head off, will there be enough left to grab the bolt shaft with Vise Grips to unscrew it?

Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

[koolaid_kid]

No, you do not want nor need the Dyna2000.
What you want is the Dyna-S ignition and a manual advance unit on the end of the crank. Look in the used parts here for the advance unit.
The coils are compatible.
Replace the regulator/rectifier immediately. The regulator burned out, which is what fried all the bulbs. Lots of threads on different units to replace it with.
Can't help you with the other part, however.
Before anyone else mentions it, it is not a CDI, it is an igniter.

[whalford1]

Okay, here's my status so far.

I broke off an EZ-out in the head of the Allen head bolt that holds the stock rotor on. Doing some creative cutting of the rotor with the cutting wheel of a Dremel tool, I was able to get the bolt loose and the rotor off.

I have an igniter box and rectifier regulator on the way. I had already bought a used Dyna-S ignition off ebay a while back. Now it's time to install it.

My question now is about installing the Dyna-S rotor on the mechanical advance unit. I can install it 2 ways: the right way, and 180 degrees opposite of the right way. There's a keyed slot for installing the mechanical advance the right way on the crankshaft. But there's no keyed slot or anything to hold the rotor in the right place on the mechanical advance. Again, it either installs in the right position, or 180 degrees away from the right position.

However, there are numbers and letters on both sides of the front of the mechanical advance unit. And with the rotor installed in either position, the magnet in the rotor aligns with a number or letter.

My question is which number or letter do I align the magnet in the rotor with?

[tom203]

While you wait for response, maybe this pic will be useful. Note the "T" mark (TDC for #1) appearing thru window on the mechanical advance plate and the position of trigger tab- the tab is past the trigger coil cuz at idle stock timing is about 10 degrees BTDC.

[koolaid_kid]

If you install a Dyna-S you do not need an igniter. The Dyna-S connects directly to your coils.
And you have learned an important lesson about ez-outs: Throw them far, far away. If you have the need to remove a broken stud, use a left-handed drill. Never use an ez-out, they break (as you found out).

[whalford1]

If you install a Dyna-S you do not need an igniter. The Dyna-S connects directly to your coils.
And you have learned an important lesson about ez-outs: Throw them far, far away. If you have the need to remove a broken stud, use a left-handed drill. Never use an ez-out, they break (as you found out).

Last night at work, I did a an extensive search on the internet that took at least an hour, and I found instructions for the Dyna-S ignition. It tells how to install the rotor. And I see from the wiring diagram that no igniter is needed. I wish I'd known that before I bought another igniter off of Ebay. Oh well, maybe I can sell it on here.

Over the years, I've usually had better luck with EX-Outs than I did this time. The kind I have aren't the reverse spiral kind. They are the 4 sided square wedge kind, with each corner having a gripping edge that grips when reversed.

And as long as there will be enough bolt thread sticking out behind the head to grab hold of with Vise Grips, I have also used a drill bit that is just barely larger than the bolt thread diameter to drill the head off. That would have worked this time too.

But if it can be reached with a Dremel tool, that usually works very well. I would't part with my Dremel tool.

Thanks guys for your help!

[Steve]

Over the years, I've usually had better luck with EX-Outs than I did this time. The kind I have aren't the reverse spiral kind. They are the 4 sided square wedge kind, with each corner having a gripping edge that grips when reversed.

Other than the fact that both kinds are extremely brittle, the biggest problem with both of them is that, in order to work, they need to wedge into place. What that does is put MORE pressure against the threads that you are trying to get to slide on each other, not grip. If you use a left-handed drill bit, it is turning in the direction of bolt removal. Eventually, it will probably grip the bolt, instead of drilling out another sliver, and that grip will just grab the bolt and start turning it out.

Of course, liberal application of penetrating oil should be done before trying either method.

.

[whalford1]

Of course, liberal application of penetrating oil should be done before trying either method.

.

Yes, I used both Sea Foam Deep Creep and Blaster, and applied first the Deep creep a few times over a couple of days, then did the same with the Blaster when the Deep Creep didn't work. Then I tried heating the bolt and rotor with a propane torch and then dousing it with Blaster to cool it quick, doing several of the heat/Blaster cycles over a couple of days, to no avail. That method has worked before, and I tried that before I tried the EZ-Out.

But had I known that there was plenty of bolt shaft inside the rotor, I'd have just drilled the bolt head off, removed the rotor, and unscrewed the bolt shaft.

I figure that bolt had been holding the rotor on for 31 years. So no wonder it was so hard to take off.

Anyway, it's time to start putting it all back together. Hopefully it'll all work right and I won't need to post again anytime soon.