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    kill switch

    Having an issue with the kill switch on my 1981 GS 1100EX . Engine will not turn over with key on while pushing starter button. Bypassed starter selonoid and engine turns over good. It has NO ignition, that was verified, (fire at plug) . I believe the kill switch is 'killing' the ignition. It acts like the kill switch is on..when it isnt. Have any of you had to repair kill switch and is it possible to rebuild this switch or is replacement needed. Will be getting into it next weekend off. Just need to know what to look for. Many thanks for any insight you can lend.
    Terry
    1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.

    #2
    Check the continuity on the two switched wires with a multi meter with the switch on and off.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Hi,

      Have you tested the kill switch for continuity? Have you tried bypassing it?


      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        You can open up the switch hsg & clean the insides of the starter button & kill toggle switch... take it apart slowly & note where all the little bits and springs go as you remove everything, then clean and reassemble with new grease.

        Old dielectric grease, corrosion, broken switch parts and wear can make a kill switch not work. Doesn't help that the ignition lead runs directly thru there either...
        '85 GS550L - SOLD
        '85 GS550E - SOLD
        '82 GS650GL - SOLD
        '81 GS750L - SOLD
        '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
        '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
        '82 GS1100G - SOLD
        '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

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          #5
          Put it inside a gallon ziplock baggie before opening it. That way any tiny parts will stay inside the bag. Otherwise they join the sock missing from the dryer - lost.

          Comment


            #6
            Sorry, but I am going to check the obvious stuff, first.

            Look on the other end of the handlebars. Did you pull the clutch?
            (Unless you have bypassed the clutch switch.)

            You also need to verify that the IGNITION fuse is good. That will the the third fuse from the end of the box.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              Hi,

              Oh, Steve. You're just so practical. '



              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff

              Comment


                #8
                all good suggestions, THANKS very much . Working on my older GS's is almost like therapy for me.
                Terry
                1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Working on my GS is almost therapy to me as well...until you have to hunt down the tools you ummm threw during a sh*t fit at some point. One screwdriver is still buried pretty deep in the ceiling yet LMAO
                  sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                  1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                  2015 CAN AM RTS


                  Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    MR. Bill,..you are funny. You forgot to mention wiping blood on shop towel after screw driver I thru bounced off my forehead and impaled itself in wall..LOL . I am SO glad I dont do as much of that anymore...key words are 'as much' .
                    Thanks for the laugh.
                    1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                      Good, you know your starter motor works when bridged/jumped. The little green/white wire on solenoid is the trigger wire-it gets power when starter button is pressed. Somewhere along path, this wire is disconnected- assuming you got connections right at right handlebar switch. You did get that nice colored wiring diagram at Basscliff's, right?
                      I'd bypass the clutch safety switch to rule it out now, and,forever.
                      I had a similar(ish) problem. This was my route:
                      - Multimeter + on bullet going into solenoid - ground. If this shows voltage (Must be very close to battery voltage across the post) the trigger wire is fine and it is the solenoid. If this is the case, replace solenoid with something like this. I used this exact one, from Lowes.
                      -Test voltages at killswitch points (starter button, run/off point) in all positions (i.e. "off" position, ignition on, no button pressed. Next, same postition button on. Then "on" position, no button. same position, the button pressed)
                      -Check your fuses and make sure they are getting good voltages and none are blown.
                      Browse my thread for more info, ideas, and tests too.

                      Good Luck!

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