ignitor-r/r

[Guest]

Is there a way to test ignitor and r/r off a bike to make sure they are good? I bought a 82 650L I'm parting out and the po had messed up the wiring so bad I couldn't get much electrical to work on bike. I know I could at least check for resistance, but not sure which wires to check together to determine unit is ok. Hope to sell these but want to make sure they are good. Would these work on my 80 850, thought of putting them on and see what happens. terrylee

[SqDancerLynn1]

Meter test is not fool proof Hook it up to another one of your bikes to test

[terrylee]

I know I could hook up the r/r to my 850, but wasn't sure about ignitor. terrylee

[JEEPRUSTY]

I used my meter for my bikes RR and despite it working fine all the tests for resistance were wrong

[BigVoxjammer]

Hijack Alert!

Sorry gang, I've searched high and low: bad/no spark, r/r test, etc, but I can't seem to find my answers and am unable to figure out how to start a new thread. This thread seemed as good a place to jump in as any....

I've had my bike on a battery tender this winter. It ran great last time I rode it. I have read as much as my brain can stand in Bass Clef's new member page, and I've searched the manual, forums and other how=to posts. Why, oh why, when these things are written do they still seem overly complicated?

I'm trying to figure out how to test my r/r. The manual, etc describes pulling wires and hooking my multimeter, but no description is free of caveats and seeming ambiguities. First: where is the r/r? I see two possibilities, and both are claimed to be the beast in either the manual, or in various threads. I have a hard to reach finned aluminum block under the bike, and a smaller finned block next to the fuse box/relays near the air box. Which do I test, and how exactly do I do it, when I can't start the bike? I know there's a bench test, but fort every thread/description of this task, there are different answers....

Where do I align the marks to check/set the point gap? The manual must have been written by someone illiterate (or I am) because the description of this procedure is in incomplete sentences and leaves out the vital info of when and where to set the gap relative to the alignment of the marks. The manual merely says turn camshaft til F1-4 is "relative" to the fixed mark, then the gap should begin to open...wtf? That's not how I've done this on other old ignitions...When the fixed mark is at the F1-4 mark, the gap is at about.010. I think it's supposed to be at .018. Never messed with it since I've owned it but it ran strong like a rented mule last Fall, so I'm leery of adjusting it without verifying the procedure. I have done more harm than good assuming things in the past.

My problem, to whit: No evident spark/snapping sound at the points, which seem to be about 1/2 the necessary gap when the marks are aligned as per manual (at least I think it's what the manual is saying). Also, there is no spark coming off the plugs when I try to start the engine with a single plug removed in an attempt to see if there's a spark. I've attempted to hold it to the fins of the engine but no spark visible to the naked eye.

Fuel fine, carbs fine, plugs fouled but pulled and cleaned. Still smell n old fuel plasticene type smell on them, tho. I did drain and stabilize fuel, and pulled dried cleaned plugs. Battery seems to hold a charge. Excellent compression.

As I said, the bike has never been a problem while I've owned it, ran fine when I parked it last fall, has been on a tender, battery is fully charged before attempting starting tests.

I know I am in the wrong place, but I just need to get this out there for answers somehow, and my patience wore out after half a day combing the forums for a straight, easy to translate answer.

No spark, strong batt, how to actually test rectifier, why would gap change to so small a gap just sitting all winter? Could once fouled, and smelling like the fuel one finds in an old gas tank (plasticene) cause ZERO spark? (I'm doubting this, but stand to be corrected.

Again, So sorry for this post but it may be r/r related. Helpful advice is very appreciated.

I'd like to bench test the r/r, the stator, coils (aren't they nearly bullet-proof?) (these may have damaged by being on a tender, but really???), I'd like to check and reset the gaps but the points shouldn't have changed, just sitting, right? And I'm willing/wanting to replace points with the dyna s and use original coils. Plug leads could be changed too, but I'm doubting they're the culprit, unless a single blown resister in the plug cap can cause no spark...

[BigVoxjammer]

Ps

Yes, I've read BassClef's wonderful Welcome pages, and have done many, tho not all of his recommended things. The bike is so sweet and original, that I didn't mess with things that weren't problems, like the carbs, though I do have all the goodies to rebuild em. If there are detailed threads, or descriptions at BassClef's pages, please offer a link. His description of how to test his r/r on his 850, for instance, refers to the underside aluminum block, and mentions the possibility of there being the side mounted r/r. I seem to have both! So something's not clear to me....

[Steve]

So something's not clear to me....

Don't feel bad, something's not clear to us, either.

It would help ever so slightly if we had a little clue what bike we might be discussing. OK, there is one little clue: "points". That means it's '79 or older and, quite likely separate rectifier and regularor.

And, ... to start a new thread, go to the forum that would be appropriate, look near the top of the page. You will see, in the upper left corner, the GSR logo. Directly under that is the name of the forum, then, just below that is the blue menu bar. Directly below that is a blue button that says "New Thread". Guess what that does?

.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Indeed. To start a new thread, click the button.

The location of your r/r unit depends on the model bike you have. It's usually on the bottom or side of the battery box. There are test procedures on my website. They will confirm that the r/r is bad but will not necessarily prove that it is good.

If you have a '79 or older bike, you more than likely have a separate regulator and rectifier. You would do well to just get rid of both pieces and buy a newer integrated r/r unit and wire it up according to Mr. duaneage's diagram on my website.



Other bits on my website that I hope you find helpful:

Testing The Ignition System
Points Timing

This is a helpful bit from Mr. bwriner (a link to his site is on my site):

Where the ^%$#@! is TDC (Top Dead Center)?

You have a 30+ year old motorcycle and it needs maintenance. You can't really skip over things like carb cleaning and valve adjustment. All of the items on the maintenance lists must be properly addressed. Taking shortcuts and skipping steps will be frustrating at best and dangerous at worst. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[BigVoxjammer]

Y'know I looked all over for that start thread button, to no avail. Yup, it's infact a 1979 750, and your explanation of separate units for the r/r makes me even gloomier, but at least I am now informed. I'm starting to think I should finish my trouble shooting before I come crying to the big boys. At the very least fresh plugs so I don't have to answer the inevitable "are the plugs fouled" question in the affirmative. Thanks, Steve. I'll go troll for that elusive Start Something button....

PS: I found it the Start Thread button. Thanks. That is a start to getting back on the road, for sure!

[BigVoxjammer]

Thanks, BassCliff that troubleshoot page is exactly the step-by-step I couldn't find. I really appreciate it. It gives me a lot to try. The language is about as clear as mud ("swing" the starter?) But I'll just go through it one at a time and see if what the writer meant becomes clear.

And step 13 is baffling: "Remove all 4 spark plugs and connect the HT lead caps to a spark plug #1, #2, #3 and #4 which is grounded and located to enable you to see the spark. Ensure all the connector plugs are back in.."

Also, is step three saying the coil and igniter SHOULD get hot when the key is on, or that it SHOULD NOT get hot?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Mr. Matchless wrote that troubleshooting procedure. He's in Australia and they have a little different way of communicating.

"HT leads" refer to the "high tension" or "high voltage" wires, the spark plug wires. "Swing with the starter" means to turn the engine over using the starter.

#3 Yes, they should warm up when turned on. Depending on what points are in contact it could be the left coil or the right coil. Don't leave the ignition in the ON state for too long, just long enough for testing purposes.

#13 describes hooking up the spark plug wires to the plugs while they are out of the engine. Place the plugs on the head somewhere so they are grounded. Then spin the motor with the starter and check that they all are sparking. You can also do this one spark plug at a time. Use a spare spark plug, disconnect one spark plug wire at a time, connect it to the spare plug, lay it on the head, then spin the engine with the starter.

Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff