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LED tailight/turn signal combo plus front turn lights install. Resistor wiring?

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    LED tailight/turn signal combo plus front turn lights install. Resistor wiring?

    Hey everyone,

    So I'm installing the title listed add ons to my GS650, I imagine the lights I've ordered will be sent with recommended resistors for the job, but I think it's always smart to consult with the veterans on here first .

    It seems a 6ohm 50 watt is about standard for most. is there any important info I should have about the sort of current that I'm working with from the stock wiring? Will each line to the front signals need in line resistors or are there tricks to avoid having to hide all the necessary components?

    Just asking all the dumb questions before I fry my bike...

    Thanks for any knowledge, it's always appreciated.

    Nate

    #2
    When you install load-compensation resistors in the turn signal lines, you only need to do one per side, so you will need a total of TWO resistors. You can install them front, rear or middle. The important thing is that they are installed from the 'hot' line that feeds the signals to ground, not in-line with the 'hot' lead to the signal.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks again Steve. So I'm out of town without my bike or my mechanics manual, but so I understand, as with any current there's ground and power. So you're saying to have an inline resistor installed on the ground side of things? Or is there something peculiar about how the signals are wired?

      Comment


        #4
        Stock turn signal flashers need to have a certain amount of current flowing through them, as they are thermal devices. That "certain amount of current" heats a bi-metallic strip to alternately make and break the connection, generating the flash.

        LEDs do not use that much current, so you need to add a resistor to simulate an incandescent bulb. Basically, you install it as if it were a third signal bulb.

        If you are playing with individual LEDs from an electronics shop, trying to adapt them to vehicle use, you will need a different resistor to limit the current available to the LED. LEDs are low-resistance devices, so will try to pass a large amount of current. They can not handle the current that will be available, so an in-line resistor is necessary to limit it.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #5
          You MAY be talking about the resistors that are incorporated into the leds themselves, for the purpose of dropping voltage to the proper point to illuminate the leds without blowing them up??

          They are usually included inside the lights.

          one example is a standalone led you can get from ebay for 12v, but it is really a 3v biased led, so they include an inline resistor.

          If this is not what you were referring to, but rather a LOAD inducing resistor to make the turn signals blike properly, I will say THIS:
          LOAD inducing resistors are the same as strapping a toaster onto your bike.

          It would make more sense to install a proper electronic flasher, available for 5 -10 bucks that will flash no matter what the load on it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by barnbiketom View Post
            ..., but rather a LOAD inducing resistor to make the turn signals blike properly, I will say THIS:
            LOAD inducing resistors are the same as strapping a toaster onto your bike.

            It would make more sense to install a proper electronic flasher, available for 5 -10 bucks that will flash no matter what the load on it.
            Yes, although the current going through those resistors is intermittent and infrequent, they do get considerably more than "comfortably warm".

            In "theNewb's" case, a 'proper' flasher would work quite well. About the only time that the load resistors make better sense is if you want to keep your self-cancelling signals, which he does not have on his bike.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              Alright, so here's the exact parts I'm waiting on, just to get a real good idea as to what I should expect...



              this one is not the exact, but something very similar...



              Thanks for the expertise...

              Comment


                #8
                no resistors needed but you will need an electronic flasher

                Comment


                  #9
                  ...to intermittently cut the signal so it flashes? On all three or just front and rear? Or could there be just one on the right line somewhere near the headlight?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    just replace the stock flasher with an electronic one.. the turn signal switch routs the current to left or right turns.

                    the running light will need nothing to work.. it is rated for 12v as is.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Alright, thanks Tom. I appreciate the help...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        let us know how it works!! I get flashers at Autozone or advance . they should be under 12 bucks i think.

                        they have two prong electronic which should work, but if you really want something that will work on any combination of bulbs/leds/all leds... etc. then try the 3 prong one. you will need to REWIRE your harness plug.. and one of the prongs on the flasher will go to a good chassis ground or bat - (minus)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by NateTheNewb View Post
                          The tail light looks OK, no problems with that at all. It is already set up for tail and brake lights, and also has white illumination for the license plate.

                          The turn signals are are "sorta" OK. They are dual-intensity, which is not necessary on the rear, unless you have RED signals on the rear. If you have red signals on the rear, you can wire the low-intensity lead to your tail lights and the high-intensity to your signals. That will give you three points of light (tail light and two signal lights) at the rear, making it easier to see you at night. Your brake lights will remain in the tail light assembly, just like stock, unless you get a trailer adapter and wire your signals into that.

                          If you are using those same signals at the front, make sure you use amber ones, connect the low-intensity wire to the spare brown wire in the headlight bucket, then connect the high-intensity wire to the signal wires, just like stock.

                          NOW, don't be surprised if nobody sees your signals, especially in daytime. Those things are only 1/2 inch across.
                          If your state has any kind of inspection program for vehicles, there is a pretty good chance that those will not pass.

                          .
                          sigpic
                          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                          Family Portrait
                          Siblings and Spouses
                          Mom's first ride
                          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Steve, great info, thanks a lot! The rear taillight that I have, although for some reason I couldn't find the exact ad, is a combo light with integrated turn signals, the small ones will be the front, and yea, they're amber. I'll have to look closely at my wiring diagram to locate the spare low intensity wire and all. I'll be getting into those as soon as I put my carbs back together and get the bike running again, hopefully by the middle of the week.

                            My biggest question about wiring is the flasher. What's this device look like that I have to wire in so that my flashers in fact, flash? Haha!

                            Nevermind, barn biker gave me an idea where to buy um.
                            Thanks again, Nate
                            Last edited by Guest; 03-29-2013, 08:21 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by NateTheNewb View Post
                              Hey when you get these, would you post up a review, or at least some comments on just how bright they actually are?

                              I got Custom Dynamics 1157 replacement LED boards for my "other" bike ... they look like the brakes are on as running lights, and they are REALLY bright when I tap the brakes.

                              Now Tanner is looking for LED turn signals for his project...and it's very difficult to figure out which LEDs are actually bright, and which ones merely SAY they're bright.

                              Comment

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