Stator Papers Clarification

[Gibbelstein]

Well, I worked out that the replacement stator was bad, and now I have a new one in hand. In moving on to the next step on the stator papers, I would like to check the new stator before putting it in. I checked the 3 legs against each other, and they are all at 1.0 ohms each (within the 0.5 to 2.0 range from the chart). I then checked the resistance of each leg against the 'chassis' of the stator and got no reading (or OL, whatever you want to call it). This is should be the same as testing against the case, right? And as long as I don't nick any of the yellow wires when I install it, things are fine?

I'm still going to re-test it when things are together, I was just curious about the logic of this step of the test. I'm guessing it is to test for the possibility that one of the yellow wires could be grounding to the case but still independent of the other two, so it would not show in the prior step?

Thanks again for the tips, all.

Chris

[BassCliff]

Hi,

When testing for continuity between a stator leg and chassis ground, it should look like an open circuit, infinite resistance (or OL). There should be no connection between a stator leg and ground.

Stator Test (PDF file)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[posplayr]

Well, I worked out that the replacement stator was bad, and now I have a new one in hand. In moving on to the next step on the stator papers, I would like to check the new stator before putting it in. I checked the 3 legs against each other, and they are all at 1.0 ohms each (within the 0.5 to 2.0 range from the chart). I then checked the resistance of each leg against the 'chassis' of the stator and got no reading (or OL, whatever you want to call it). This is should be the same as testing against the case, right? And as long as I don't nick any of the yellow wires when I install it, things are fine?

I'm still going to re-test it when things are together, I was just curious about the logic of this step of the test. I'm guessing it is to test for the possibility that one of the yellow wires could be grounding to the case but still independent of the other two, so it would not show in the prior step?

Thanks again for the tips, all.

Chris

Yes

[posplayr]

Hi,

When testing for continuity between a stator leg and chassis ground, it should look like an open circuit, infinite resistance (or OL). There should be no connection between a stator leg and ground.

Stator Test (PDF file)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Hi Cliff
Very nice write up as usual. I would however suggest adding the additional test of AC voltage to ground on each leg. This will check if there is a short to ground with the AC voltage of the stator applied which is a better test than using the couple of volts that the ohm meter does when checking simple resistance. It is a poor man's Megger if you will.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1393931&postcount=4

[Gibbelstein]

Hey, thanks guys. It looks like things are performing as advertised. Battery holds a charge, and voltage seems to be a steady 14.18v from 2000rpm to at least 5000rpm. And the R/R stays touchably cool when mounted under the battery box.

ALSO:

I'm not sure if this is a tip or if it has already been shared, but I learned that I should test conductivity between the yellow leads and the side cover after the stator has been put in place but before mounting it on the bike. The reason being that I tested the leads to the frame (chassis?) of the stator and it tested fine, but then I tested it against the frame of the bike when it was all buttoned up and it failed (meaning there was conductivity).

After taking things apart and re-assembling them 3 or so times, I found out that one of the coils was close enough to the stator mounting 'tower' on the stator cover that it was only contacting it when things were tightened down. (Before discovering this, tried bending the plate that covers the leads away from the stator.)

So, in case anyone sees this through a search, (and they are able to decipher what I typed above) I thought it might save some people from doing the same task more than once. Test early, test often!

Thanks again, all.

Chris

[posplayr]

Hey, thanks guys. It looks like things are performing as advertised. Battery holds a charge, and voltage seems to be a steady 14.18v from 2000rpm to at least 5000rpm. And the R/R stays touchably cool when mounted under the battery box.

ALSO:

I'm not sure if this is a tip or if it has already been shared, but I learned that I should test conductivity between the yellow leads and the side cover after the stator has been put in place but before mounting it on the bike. The reason being that I tested the leads to the frame (chassis?) of the stator and it tested fine, but then I tested it against the frame of the bike when it was all buttoned up and it failed (meaning there was conductivity).

After taking things apart and re-assembling them 3 or so times, I found out that one of the coils was close enough to the stator mounting 'tower' on the stator cover that it was only contacting it when things were tightened down. (Before discovering this, tried bending the plate that covers the leads away from the stator.)

So, in case anyone sees this through a search, (and they are able to decipher what I typed above) I thought it might save some people from doing the same task more than once. Test early, test often!

Thanks again, all.

Chris

There should never be condutivity between a stator winding and the frame/chassis. And yes it is best to check this after the stator is installed as there can be clearance issues where things get grounded as you have found out. But in addition to that there can be conductivity under other conditions like:

1. The engine warms up
2. The voltage from the stator starts to rise and breaks down the insulation.

You will have notices also that you should test the AC voltage from each stator leg to ground while running the bike to insure you are getting nothing. This also insures no conductivity. (See modified Phase B tests of the stator pages under GS Charging Health.) Obviously this is with the stator installed and the engine buttoned up and running.