jammed ignition lock switch

[Guest]

I repaired a carb problem, now another. my fork lock in the ignition switch wont unlock. I used copious amts of brake kleen and wd40 to no avail. I removed the entire switch and took it to the shop to mess with. the electrical part comes out easily enough. but how to disassemble the key part? Im afraid to experiment because I might do irreversable damage. looks like the tiny roll pins go in but not all the way through.
the only consolation is I can hook up the electrical part and use a screwdriver in the meantime, and there's plenty of complete swtiches on ebay with keys for 35-40 bucks.

[chuck hahn]

Locksmith would be about the same as the cost for Ebay ordering..maybe give that a try. There have been others that have gotten them apart, but i dont mess with the ignitions. Thats an area ( to me ) better left to a professional than me trying it.

[Kiwi Canuck]

What's the problem

I repaired a carb problem, now another. my fork lock in the ignition switch wont unlock. I used copious amts of brake kleen and wd40 to no avail. I removed the entire switch and took it to the shop to mess with. the electrical part comes out easily enough. but how to disassemble the key part? Im afraid to experiment because I might do irreversable damage. looks like the tiny roll pins go in but not all the way through.
the only consolation is I can hook up the electrical part and use a screwdriver in the meantime, and there's plenty of complete swtiches on ebay with keys for 35-40 bucks.

When you say "Jammed" what do you mean? does the key turn at all? did it ever turn before? maybe you have the incorrect key, is that possible?
As far as removing the cylinder to check the plug or to rekey the lock it looks like you with need to remove the 3 roll pins, you can use a very fine mini hack saw with the very small blade (or a dremel) and cut in on a 45 degree angle behind the pin, once you cut down to the roll pin stop, insert a good small flat blade screw driver and pry the roll pin up enough to grab it with pliers to pull it out. (The pins are quite short, so be aware when you make the cut, try not to deform the top of the hole, so the pin will hold properly when re-installed)
If you want to repair the slots after you are done re-insert the pins and use lead shot or liquid metal, sand and paint, if not just leave them as is.

Hope this helps.

PS I will be rekeying my ignition on a 1980 GS1000S and will know the procedure once complete. I will repost once I have done mine.

[snicrep5]

it always worked fine until yesterday, i had left the bike in the carport so i turned the key counter cw to lock the forks. I had difficulty for the first time ever unlocking it but I did. this morning it wouldnt turn or unlock.
i can puch the fork lock slide with a screw driver to relase the forks but the key wont turn. ive dis assemble ignition switches before but this one doensnt make it easy or even possible w/o cutting or drilling. Locksiths arent that cheap. Id rather just buy a new on. The ones on ebay appear to be new. Oh well this is what one gets when he has a 30 yr-old m/c. There will always be a new puzzle to solve!

[Baatfam]

First rule...never use the fork lock...

Several of us on here have had this happen, and I don't think anyone ever fixed it.
It happened to me a few hundred miles from home...had to remove the ignition and take the switch off the bottom of the lock, then I could turn the ignition with a screw driver.

After several hours of trying to open and fix it, I replaced mine with a new old stock OEM unit, but they are hard to find and expensive.


A good used one and never using the fork lock is the best answer.

[snicrep5]

Yeah i agree on the fork lock. Anyway Im ordering another switch and I can still ride using the electrical half. I went ahead and busted the old one apart (its what I do) and separated the lock cylinder from the rest. The lock cylinder is what is jammed internally, so something probably came lose inside of that part. thanks for the input everybody. Funny thing is on the way from home yesterday, a black cat grossed in front of me and timed his crossing as if he were waiting for my arrival. If this is the bad luck then Ill take it!

[snicrep5]

"crossed" not grossed. Thats what would have happened if I hit him.

[TheGypsyHead]

Just had this happen, a quick fix/last ditch effort before tearing into your bike is to use a flat head to pry on the lock detent under the triple tree whilst turning the key out of the lock position. The prying, in my case, was just enough to coax the ignition back. Probably not very good for the already worn pins...but beats being stuck at work!

[Redman]

Just had this happen, a quick fix/last ditch effort before tearing into your bike is to use a flat head to pry on the lock detent under the triple tree whilst turning the key out of the lock position. The prying, in my case, was just enough to coax the ignition back. Probably not very good for the already worn pins...but beats being stuck at work!

Your first post, and apparently you have used the search function,... and are providing information.
Great. Welcome to GSR. Do introduce yourself in the Owners section.


.

[seanarthurmachado]

Managed to unjam ignition switch in park

Hi everyone,

Not to beat a dead horse/post to a really old thread, but this might be valuable.

I received my new (to me) 1979 Suzuki gs850g, kept fiddling with the key and managed to get it into Park/Lock.

The key would then not turn. I tried WD40, rocking bars back and forth, sitting and and getting off the bike, twisting the key, prying at the "deadbolt" part of the lock with a screwdriver, nothing would work.

I removed the ignition switch from the bike, still would not turn. (It would start to turn then stop half way)

I did some reading somewhere that the issue is likely to be the pins in the lock and the key would be worn in the commonly used positions (on/off) and not in the unused (Lock and Park).

I tried to get at the barrel of the lock, could not. I then finally tried giving it a good twist while PULLING on the key instead of pushing. It popped back up and went from PARK to ON, and I was then able to switch with that key from ON to OFF and to LOCK without issue. (PARK still jams the key, and I will not be using it)

(I think I may have altered the key with my twisting, since the other key I have no longer does anything to turn the ignition at all, but the key used does work, and also still unlocks the gas cap.)

I know the best solution would be to replace the ignition switch, but I'm trying to keep this bike cheap.

Hopefully this might help someone.

[Steve]

... (PARK still jams the key, and I will not be using it)...

That's OK, you don't want to use the PARK position, anyway.

Yes, it locks the forks just like the LOCK position, but it also turns on the tail light.

If you leave it in PARK for an hour or so, you will not be able to start your bike.

.

[argonsagas]

That's OK, you don't want to use the PARK position, anyway.

Yes, it locks the forks just like the LOCK position, but it also turns on the tail light.

If you leave it in PARK for an hour or so, you will not be able to start your bike.

.

I stopped using the lock or park settings entirely after the second time it stuck in lock.

I carry a chain or cable with a padlock in case I really want to lock the bike, but don't use that very often, either.

It is a simple truth that, if anyone REALLY wants to steal your bike, they won't care what lock is on it. Two or three guys just spend a few seconds to toss the bike into the back of a truck and then drive away.

ONE guy with a cable spool in the truck, or even just a come-along, can do it alone.

[Rob S.]

My '82 GS1100e key got stuck also. I don't remember exactly how I got it unstuck, just constant and repeated trying shortly after minor panic (it was in my garage) set in. Which is good, because I'm from the hammer school of mechanics - if you can't fix it with a hammer, you're not using a big enough hammer.