no power at one coil

[dallard2]

Ok i suck at electrics. I did read on cliffs site, but cant figure what to look for if one of my two coils is not getting power. Could it be one of the pick up coils?

Actually im getting 9.3v at the cyl 2-3 coil and 0.05 at 1-4 coil. Battery 12.3v. Big power loss.
I will do the coil relay mod and clean my harness, but still have a hard time to know what to look for. Thanks guys

Dom

[dallard2]

Looks like i was doing the coil test wrong. With negative direct on the battery 2-3 gives 10.8 and 1-4 gives 9.8

On coil 2-3 if i was putting the negative lead from the multimeter in the coil plug i was getting power. On 1-4 coil i am getting none with both leads from the multimeter in the coil plug but 9.8 with the negative of the multimeter on the negative on the battery. Would this mean i have a bad ground on coil 1-4? Is the ground coming from somewhere in the ignition system or i could just ground at the battery and try to start it? The coil relay mod should fix my problem im pretty sure.

[barnbiketom]

Both coils should have battery voltage at one wire.. i think orange ..somebody will chime in. i'm way tired tonight. it's actually the same wire going to the same place.. just tees off in the harness..

the other wires are 'grounded' intermittantly, off and on.. by the ignitor module. each in the correct timing as calculated by the ignitor module. the pickup coils merely hook to the ignitor by their own wires as inputs.
You SHOULD have within .5 volts of the battery voltage at both + wires on each individual coil!! thats where the relay mod comes in, but if it's even close it should still make spark on each coil..

10.8 volts is no good.. you have a corroded connection or bad ignition switch... etc etc.. just follow the wiring from the bat, to the igniton switch etc!!!

[dallard2]

I will do. But will do the coil mod also. So its normal that i am not getting voltage with negative of the multimeter in one of the coil plugs. I guess its like that for timing. I will clean every connector and ground. Beginning by the ignition switch

[dallard2]

Oh and thank you very much

[5azzmonkey]

Your electronic ignition will ground the coil, when the crank rotates to the correct position, which will fire the plug(s). Read this for some ignition basics:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_system

The coil relay mod will fix your low voltage condition.

Thanks,
Dave

[dallard2]

Thanks Dave. I am french so sometimes i have a hard time understanding everything in these nice mods tutorials

[dallard2]

I took the headlight out to check the wiring. I found one connector which seems to be the stator current. There is a white/red jumper wire on the connector that heated up and was stiff and cracked when i moved it. It does look like this one does not make a good contact anymore. Coild i jump this wire before the connector?

This

[dallard2]

Oh and now that i wiggled this wire and shoot contact cleaner in there and in the ign switch connector i get 11.34v at one coil and 10.8 at the other one. Already much better

[posplayr]

Oh and now that i wiggled this wire and shoot contact cleaner in there and in the ign switch connector i get 11.34v at one coil and 10.8 at the other one. Already much better

You have only been here less than a month and you have already learned why you remove the stator loop to the headlamp switch from the R/R connections.

Have you checked the rest of the electrical? I'm figuring not.......

See GS Charging Health.

[5azzmonkey]

I took the headlight out to check the wiring. I found one connector which seems to be the stator current. There is a white/red jumper wire on the connector that heated up and was stiff and cracked when i moved it. It does look like this one does not make a good contact anymore. Coild i jump this wire before the connector?

This

That is the wire that goes from the stator (AC generator) though the handle bar switch to the regulator/rectifier.

The stator has 3 wires coming from it, two go directly from the stator to the regulator/rectifier and the third runs up to the handle bar switch then to the regulator/rectifier. You can (should) bypass the handle bar switch/connector as it is just jumped anyway and not switched (see pic)

[dallard2]

I got it to start today. I replaced the spark plugs and i do have a good blue spark on all 4. Cyl 1 and 4 still wont fire. After i let it run and rev a little, both middle spark plugs have soot on them. They are black. #1 and 4 plugs have only gas on them. I do have spark and fuel, but it wont light up. Maybe a valve adjustment will take care of it.

I also found this connector to be burned. It had tape over it so i couldnt see it.



If i do have bad timing on the ignition plate, will i still have spark but it wouldnt fire?