Shindengen SH775 plugs

[posplayr]

I just observed my new SH 77r RR with my multimeter. At 4500 rpm it charges at 14.5 volts. Turning off the headlight, the voltage drops to 12.9. It responds to the load on it, and only provides enough power to cover the load. Turning the headlight back on, the voltage returns to 14.5.

This is how it is supposed to work, right?

Could be but I would not expect that. If the R/R is expected to regulate at 14.5V it should regulate at 14.5V regardless of the lights being on of off. The only time it cant achieve 14.5 is if there is in sufficient voltage coming from the stator. Are you sure the 12.9V is at 4000 RPM with the lights off?

[MAC10]

I have been using the bike with its new electricals for a month. 78 GS1000C.

I get 14.4 volts at 4500 rpm with the headlight off. Headlight on, it drops to around 13 volts. I have a very bright halogen bulb, which accounts for some of this. Does the Sh 775 RR behave like it should, or is there something else going on. From what I read, shouldn't it maintain a steady 14.4 volts?

Time to review the headlight circuit, and install a relay, and consider a new bulb with less draw. How much difference will a relay make?

The other issue is I have twice blown the old 15 amp glass tube fuse. This was on a semi melted but resoldered set of clips. I have replaced it with a modern inline fuse, so far no problems.

On the charger the battery goes to 13.3 volts, then gradually drops to 12.8 or so where it stabilises. Over 4 days storage it has dropped to 12.3. Is this a sign of a battery problem?

[Nessism]

Did you wire the stator directly into the R/R like conventional forum wisdom dictates? Did you check for resistance drop, and subsequent voltage loss, in the R/R power output circuit on the way to the battery? Assuming yes to both these, then voltage falling to 13 volts with the headlamp on is a sign of a weak stator.

[Steve]

The wiring looks straightforward, with one question- in the double plug, which is ground and which is power?

The "power" wire is the one closer to the stator inputs.

.

[MAC10]

Thanks Steve, and Nessism. I will check connections and run the tests again. This is a brand new Rick's stator, and should not be faulty.Stator wired straight into the battery as recommended here, and diligently followed.

[Steve]

Thanks Steve, and Nessism. I will check connections and run the tests again. This is a brand new Rick's stator, and should not be faulty. Wired straight into the battery as recommended.

You are right, it SHOULD not be faulty, but did you measure the output when you installed it?

.

[MAC10]

I measured the outputs with the leads bare. That was before I elected to fill the plug cavity with rtv so it would fit in the tight space I had available. Time to pull it apart, check the connections and crimps, and do it over to be sure.

Also time to pull the starter cover and verify all three leads from the stator are unharmed. The last failure of the stator was caused by wires burning just under the starter cover where they are route on the way to the rr. I made sure that area was smooth when I installed the current stator. Checking it all makes sense, along with testing the outputs.

Does the rotor magnet ever go bad? Any way to test it?

[Steve]

Does the rotor magnet ever go bad? Any way to test it?

I have heard a few reports where someone suspected that the magnetism was a bit diminished, but very few people have the tools to measure that.

However, if you smack the rotor just a bit wrong in an effort to pull it, it is definitely possible to crack the magnets, which renders the entire rotor useless.

.

[tom203]

.....
Time to review the headlight circuit, and install a relay, and consider a new bulb with less draw. How much difference will a relay make?


On the charger the battery goes to 13.3 volts, then gradually drops to 12.8 or so where it stabilises. Over 4 days storage it has dropped to 12.3. Is this a sign of a battery problem?

Skip the relay, stator and R/R still have to produce the power no matter how it gets to headlight. An extra bright bulb should be no problem except maybe at idle where voltage might droop slightly.. You need to retest.
Your battery dropping to 12.3 after 4 days is odd- mine stays at + 12.5 after 2 weeks of sitting

[GSJim]

Someone should mention that the terminals that come with the kits are 'open barrel', and require a crimping tool specifically for that purpose. Anything else is just troglodyte.

Personally, I love open barrel, but it takes a good tool and a little practice. Nothing wrong with letting someone else handle it -- which is slowly becoming my standard motto anymore.

I used the ratcheting tool from Vinatge Connections ($35) for my open barrel terminals. After a few practice crimps I was able to get consistent crimps.

Jim

[Nessism]

So the stator wires are feeding directly to the R/R right? If so, that much is good.

Voltage loss from R/R power output on the way to the battery is common. There are a couple of terminal connections in the circuit. You may need to remove the brass terminals from the plastic plug connectors and dip them in HCl acid or maybe vinegar to clean. Also scrub down the terminals with a stainless steel brush and pinch closed the prongs on the terminal. It idea is to make sure you don't have any extra resistance in the circuit.

[1980GS1000E]

I installed the 775 where the ignitor box was and relocated the ignitor to where the old r/r was. I just used spade terminals filled with rtv. I also sealed up the ignitor box as this was a concern.

[silverbullet132]

I was going to put a FH020AA on my GS as I have used one on my VFR, bad idea?

[tom203]

I was going to put a FH020AA on my GS as I have used one on my VFR, bad idea?

Honestly, I think the series SH775 is superior and well worth $70 - it limits stator current output to what your bike needs at any moment rather than running at full tilt all the time.

[MAC10]

SH 775 installation in a GS1000C tips

I used a couple of pieces of one eighth inch aluminum plate to build a better mounting, which pieces are flat against the back of the rr which is itself aluminum as a heat sink. The whole thing bolts to the original electical mounting plate on the bike. I had to drill one extra hole to get the bigger SH 775 a place to bolt. A tight fit, but doable. The original Suzuki ignition solenoid is smaller, and will work better than my bigger aftermarket version.


Due to the tight fit , I used spade terminals. At first try it would only charge at 13 to 13.3 volts.So...

This season I re- did the connections from the SH 775 to the three stator wires. I scrubbed the three spade terminals on both ends before assembly, and crimped them tight with needle nose pliers, which is what I have. I cut down the plastic skirt on the rr to improve access to the connections.The way it came from the factory was too deep for my application. It is now about half the height, which lets it fit better in the crowded space, and be easier to work on. Filed smooth it looks original. After I verified it was producing a good charge, I filled it with rtv as recommended. I will add a little support to the wires with a zip tie to prevent stress on the now hanging wires.

The centre of the three wires from the stator was a bit loose, which was the cause of the charging problem.

The bike now sits at a solid 14.3 volts at anywhere over 2000 rpm. At idle it drops to 12.9.

Next step is to test my electric vest to see how the new charging system copes with it.