ate another stator

[robertbarr]

With a series-type R/R, the stator will still try to put out all it can, but the circuit gets interrupted by the R/R to regulate the voltage.
Because the actual output is now pulsed, the average output of the stator is lower, which is what adds to its life.

.

Okay, so what type of meter shunt would I have to wire inline with one of the stator legs to get an oscillogram of the output, switched on & off at some rate -- probably pretty high -- by the R/R?

How much current are these carrying? 400W / 60v = 6.7, but that's DC. Can't be all that much, given the 18 gauge stator leads.

Here's roughly what I'm thinking of.

[posplayr]

Okay, so what type of meter shunt would I have to wire inline with one of the stator legs to get an oscillogram of the output, switched on & off at some rate -- probably pretty high -- by the R/R?

How much current are these carrying? 400W / 60v = 6.7, but that's DC. Can't be all that much, given the 18 gauge stator leads.

Here's roughly what I'm thinking of.

A clamp on current clamp would be better. I did the measurements here.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4066862/ssr-vs-fh012aa-pdf-may-31-2012-10-20-pm-903k?da=y

[DimitriT]

So I ordered the new stator and finally got around to it. Started by disconnecting the
old stator from the R/R. Turns out the connectors were completely melted.

I used fairly heavy duty spade connectors with plastic covers. The plastic was a black
ball of coal and it also melted a few other bystanders.

I went to my local electronics supply place (who sold the connectors) and we got to
talking. He mentioned that any corrosion on those connectors will lead to the R/R pulling
more current and generating more heat which will cause further corrosion. Eventually
the shielding melts and you get a short.

He recommended a simply go with crimped butt connectors, solder and some heavy
shrink wrap.

I tested the stator for continuity and got 0 ohms from all three legs so I followed the
advice of the guy at the store: trimmed the wires and soldered. Charging works great
again. Big Honda R/R got nice and warm as usual but not too bad.

We'll see how long it lasts. I'll hold on to the new stator just in case.

[83_450E]

If your R/R get's too hot from lack of airflow like mine because I put it in an odd spot
then put in an H4 HID hah
It can be cooled easily by fitting a small 12v fan to the heatsink. Simply pull power off the sensing wire, which should just be power when key "on"

[DimitriT]

If your R/R get's too hot from lack of airflow like mine because I put it in an odd spot
then put in an H4 HID hah
It can be cooled easily by fitting a small 12v fan to the heatsink. Simply pull power off the sensing wire, which should just be power when key "on"

Doesn't get too hot. You can put your hand on it for a few seconds.

I tried splicing the sense wire to the tail light but noticed the R/R was putting out up to 16V.
Didn't seem right. Not sure why the big voltage drop. I probably should clean the contacts
in my key switch (do I just spray some cleaner in the key hole?)

For now I have the sense wire right on the + terminal and get 14.5V solid.

[gmansyz]

R/R On a new GSXR/Busa

Hello Pos
Do you think the R/R would work on the newer GSXR's/Busa? Other than finding a place to mount it, the wiring should be the same, yes?
Laters
Greg