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    Building a new wiring harness

    I have been tearing down my 82' GS850 GZ and the harness is chafed all over and has a bunch of bad splices from previous owners.

    I was planning on rebuilding the whole harness and was wondering if there was a guide already on here that had all the wire gauges. I looked and couldn't find anything but thought someone with a little more time on here might have a better idea. Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Have you considered just getting a used harness from an ebay seller- would save alot of time?
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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      #3
      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
      Have you considered just getting a used harness from an ebay seller- would save alot of time?
      I remember seeing at least one good example, but I really don't see the need. Most of the wires are adequately sized except the primary red and orange wires and the grounds. The most I could recommend would be to put in the Western Beaver unit. This would reduce the load on the wires at issue.

      As Tom suggests find a descent quality used harness and get some Detoxit contact cleaner and go over it, do the recommended wiring changes for the R/R (including soldering the fuse box crimps).

      Reinforce the wrap in places that it needs will be much better than stock and you wont have to worry about designing a harness.

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        #4
        I have one for the 82 850G, let me know if you need it.

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          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          I remember seeing at least one good example, but I really don't see the need. Most of the wires are adequately sized except the primary red and orange wires and the grounds. The most I could recommend would be to put in the Western Beaver unit. This would reduce the load on the wires at issue.

          As Tom suggests find a descent quality used harness and get some Detoxit contact cleaner and go over it, do the recommended wiring changes for the R/R (including soldering the fuse box crimps).

          Reinforce the wrap in places that it needs will be much better than stock and you wont have to worry about designing a harness.
          I would normally agree, but I can get stock wiring for free and I'm a bit particular to what I have in mind. I want to move a few connections to more accessible places. The other reason is I bought this bike as a project bike and to have fun building. Buying a used harness would not be fun or cost effective to me.

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            #6
            Originally posted by bbjumper View Post
            I have one for the 82 850G, let me know if you need it.
            That would be great. Thanks.

            Comment


              #7
              So I have been doing more research into building a harness. After deciding to do a few relay mods and countless other upgrades, I decided it was time to actually build a new harness for sure.

              A few things I will be doing for sure is upgrading to Mil22759/16 wire and using Weatherpack connectors.

              There are a few things I was hoping to pick your brains for though.

              1 - Is a max of 2% voltage drop excessive? I know you want that or better for ignition and charging, but indication, lighting and horn?

              2 - Does anyone know the average amperage of the different components on an 82' GS850G? Mostly Starter, Start Relay, Ignition Box, Coils and Signal Generator.

              Any help would be greatly appreciated.

              Thanks in advance.

              Comment


                #8
                2% drop is not much overall infact that would be great; most people see 1-2v out of 13v drops just to the coils. Most of that is in the switches.

                All three fuse circuits are 10A, that is a little over kill.
                Last edited by posplayr; 06-23-2013, 12:46 AM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                  2% drop is not much overall infact that would be great; most people see 1-2v out of 13v drops just to the coils. Most of that is in the switches.

                  All three fuse circuits are 10A, that is a little over kill.
                  I definitely realized the overkill on the fuses, which doesn't really hurt with an old finicky system. I'm mostly worried about ensuring I have the right wire gauge for all the systems. With my LED upgrades to the lighting, I have about 2 A, and with 22 AWG I'm looking at about a 5.5% loss. Is this to high for lighting?

                  For the charging and ignition I can go to what ever size is needed. I would just like to know more.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Most of the wires are either 18 or 20 gauge.
                    A 5.5% drop is excessive. Shoot for your 2%, that is the accepted goal for DC.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hello again everyone.

                      I was looking at removing the "start/kill" switch from my handlebars (trying to slim down the wiring and look of the handlebars), and going to just a key start under the seat. Now I just found out you need a kill switch by law in BC on the handlebars. Now I found this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...h-12-0041.html , which will integrate it all.

                      My question is, would you go this route and just put a 2-way ignition (key), or put a smaller light switch with just a kill button and keep the start under the seat?

                      Yes I know this has alot to do with preference, but would still like some input and if you have time why.

                      Thanks

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Hakamisu View Post
                        Hello again everyone.

                        I was looking at removing the "start/kill" switch from my handlebars (trying to slim down the wiring and look of the handlebars), and going to just a key start under the seat. Now I just found out you need a kill switch by law in BC on the handlebars. Now I found this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...h-12-0041.html , which will integrate it all.

                        My question is, would you go this route and just put a 2-way ignition (key), or put a smaller light switch with just a kill button and keep the start under the seat?

                        Yes I know this has alot to do with preference, but would still like some input and if you have time why.

                        Thanks
                        getting rid of the kill switch could be "Killer"

                        Comment


                          #13
                          There is a reason motorcycles come with a kill switch. In the 60's they did not, and there could be nothing worse than being trapped under a running motorcycle, in gear, with the key unreachable (they used to be on the side.
                          Your kill switch needs to be large, accessible, and easy to reach. Aesthetics be dammed on this one, you need to consider your safety first and looks second.
                          Rant over.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Understood.

                            I would still like some input on weather I should go with the big combined switch or a small one separate from the light switch unit. Like this one.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I see a button, but not a switch. Am I missing something?

                              Comment

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