I was planning on rebuilding the whole harness and was wondering if there was a guide already on here that had all the wire gauges. I looked and couldn't find anything but thought someone with a little more time on here might have a better idea. Thanks in advance.
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Building a new wiring harness
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Building a new wiring harness
I have been tearing down my 82' GS850 GZ and the harness is chafed all over and has a bunch of bad splices from previous owners.
I was planning on rebuilding the whole harness and was wondering if there was a guide already on here that had all the wire gauges. I looked and couldn't find anything but thought someone with a little more time on here might have a better idea. Thanks in advance.Tags: None
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Originally posted by tom203 View PostHave you considered just getting a used harness from an ebay seller- would save alot of time?
As Tom suggests find a descent quality used harness and get some Detoxit contact cleaner and go over it, do the recommended wiring changes for the R/R (including soldering the fuse box crimps).
Reinforce the wrap in places that it needs will be much better than stock and you wont have to worry about designing a harness.
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bbjumper
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Hakamisu
Originally posted by posplayr View PostI remember seeing at least one good example, but I really don't see the need. Most of the wires are adequately sized except the primary red and orange wires and the grounds. The most I could recommend would be to put in the Western Beaver unit. This would reduce the load on the wires at issue.
As Tom suggests find a descent quality used harness and get some Detoxit contact cleaner and go over it, do the recommended wiring changes for the R/R (including soldering the fuse box crimps).
Reinforce the wrap in places that it needs will be much better than stock and you wont have to worry about designing a harness.
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Hakamisu
So I have been doing more research into building a harness. After deciding to do a few relay mods and countless other upgrades, I decided it was time to actually build a new harness for sure.
A few things I will be doing for sure is upgrading to Mil22759/16 wire and using Weatherpack connectors.
There are a few things I was hoping to pick your brains for though.
1 - Is a max of 2% voltage drop excessive? I know you want that or better for ignition and charging, but indication, lighting and horn?
2 - Does anyone know the average amperage of the different components on an 82' GS850G? Mostly Starter, Start Relay, Ignition Box, Coils and Signal Generator.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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Hakamisu
Originally posted by posplayr View Post2% drop is not much overall infact that would be great; most people see 1-2v out of 13v drops just to the coils. Most of that is in the switches.
All three fuse circuits are 10A, that is a little over kill.
For the charging and ignition I can go to what ever size is needed. I would just like to know more.
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koolaid_kid
Most of the wires are either 18 or 20 gauge.
A 5.5% drop is excessive. Shoot for your 2%, that is the accepted goal for DC.
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Hakamisu
Hello again everyone.
I was looking at removing the "start/kill" switch from my handlebars (trying to slim down the wiring and look of the handlebars), and going to just a key start under the seat. Now I just found out you need a kill switch by law in BC on the handlebars. Now I found this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...h-12-0041.html , which will integrate it all.
My question is, would you go this route and just put a 2-way ignition (key), or put a smaller light switch with just a kill button and keep the start under the seat?
Yes I know this has alot to do with preference, but would still like some input and if you have time why.
Thanks
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Originally posted by Hakamisu View PostHello again everyone.
I was looking at removing the "start/kill" switch from my handlebars (trying to slim down the wiring and look of the handlebars), and going to just a key start under the seat. Now I just found out you need a kill switch by law in BC on the handlebars. Now I found this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...h-12-0041.html , which will integrate it all.
My question is, would you go this route and just put a 2-way ignition (key), or put a smaller light switch with just a kill button and keep the start under the seat?
Yes I know this has alot to do with preference, but would still like some input and if you have time why.
Thanks
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koolaid_kid
There is a reason motorcycles come with a kill switch. In the 60's they did not, and there could be nothing worse than being trapped under a running motorcycle, in gear, with the key unreachable (they used to be on the side.
Your kill switch needs to be large, accessible, and easy to reach. Aesthetics be dammed on this one, you need to consider your safety first and looks second.
Rant over.
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Hakamisu
Understood.
I would still like some input on weather I should go with the big combined switch or a small one separate from the light switch unit. Like this one.
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koolaid_kid
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