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    running & brake light staying on

    My taillight melted to the red plastic and I think either shorted or fused a wire somewhere in the harness. After replacing with an 1157 LL, both filaments now stay lit. I've traced the white & brown wire out of the light & toward the battery area. Any ideas where this could be going bad? All the fuses look good. Replaced 15amp signal thinking that would remedy but no dice. There are are few inline connectors that could be suspect.

    82 GS1100L

    #2
    Hi,

    Most of the time it's the front brake switch that has malfunctioned. You can take it apart, clean it up, and reassemble it properly to eliminate that possibility.

    Front Brake Switch Repair

    (by Mr. gravity tester)

    If it's not the front brake switch (or the rear brake switch), you'll have to trace the brake light wire until you find where it's getting 12 volts. It should only get 12 volts when the front or rear brake switch is activated.


    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #3
      The brown tail light wire goes straight to the ignition switch.

      The white brake light wire is fed by both front and back switches, but like BassCliff said, it's usually the front switch that has the problems.
      You can get a new front switch assembly for about $10.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment


        #4
        It looks like it may be the front brake. I pulled it apart and only one small piece ( the copper block) was in there. Surely the other two tiny pieces didn't fall out on the floor I'm hoping this is all it is. Definitely seems suspect.

        Hoping the bike yard near me has an old brake I can salvage parts.

        Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
        Hi,

        Most of the time it's the front brake switch that has malfunctioned. You can take it apart, clean it up, and reassemble it properly to eliminate that possibility.

        Front Brake Switch Repair

        (by Mr. gravity tester)

        If it's not the front brake switch (or the rear brake switch), you'll have to trace the brake light wire until you find where it's getting 12 volts. It should only get 12 volts when the front or rear brake switch is activated.


        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

        Comment


          #5
          Well, that is 110% the problem! With front brake assembly still apart, turned key, only one filament on. Kicking back pedal, brake light activates!

          Thanks for such quick response!

          Comment


            #6
            Good troubleshooting. Disconnect the front brake swtich and brake light goes off, then it was the front swtich that was keeping the brake light on.

            Replacement new swtiches are about 15 dollars.



            Originally posted by GSOH View Post
            ........ Replaced 15amp signal .....
            Only the Main fuse should be 15amp. All the others are 10 amp.



            .
            http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
            Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
            GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


            https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

            Comment


              #7
              The banjo bolt type pressure switches that replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinders are a lot more reliable.
              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                The banjo bolt type pressure switches that replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinders are a lot more reliable.
                Yes, but they also require that you are acutally in the process of stopping before the light ever comes on.

                Having the light come on by barely squeezing the lever will give following motorists a split-second notice that you are about to be stopping.

                It also enables you to flash the light to get someone's attention without actually slowing down.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Switches are readily available from many Ebay sellers and from the dealerships.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Here you go....


                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The full kit....

                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post

                        Buying the full kit for a buck more seems the way to go. I'm still gonna hit up the local parts yard and see if I cant salvage one. Also, my neighbor gave me one out of his old assembly, but it doesnt have the fluted sides allowing the copper plate to easily (?) slide back and forth to contact the actuator plates. May have to mess with it a few minutes to get it up and moving again.

                        Comment

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